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THE 


L  A  D  I  E  S' 

WORK-TABLE   BOOK; 


CONTAINING 


CLEAR  AND  PRACTICAL  INSTRUCTIONS 


PLAIN  AND  FANCY  NEEDLEWORK, 

EMBROIDERYj-KNITTING,    NETTING, 
AND     CROCHET. 


WITH  NUMEROUS  ENGRAVINGS, 

ILLUSTRATIVE   OF  THE   VARIOUS   STITCHES  IN  THOSE   USEFUL   AND 
FASHIONABLE    EMPLOYMENTS. 


NEW-YORK: 
J.   WINCHESTER,   30  ANN-STREET 

1844. 


INTRODUCTION. 


IF  it  b*  true  that  "  home  scenes  are  rendered  happy  or  miserable 
in  proportion  to  the  good  or  evil  influence  exercised  over  them  by 
woman — as  sister,  wife,  or  mother" — it  will  be  admitted  as  a  fact 
ol  the  utmost  importance,  that  every  thing  should  be  done  to  im- 
prove the  taste,  cultivate  the  understanding,  and  elevate  the  charac- 
ter of  those  "  high  priestesses  "  of  our  domestic  sanctuaries.  The 
page  of  history  informs  us,  that  the  progress  of  any  nation  in  mor- 
als, civilization,  and  refinement,  is  in  proportion  to  the  elevated 
or  degraded  position  in  which  woman  is  placed  in.  society;  and 
the  same  instructive  volume  will  enable  us  to  perceive,  that  the 
fanciful  creations  of  the  needle,  have  exerted  a  marked  influence 
over  the  pursuits  and  destinies  of  man. 


IV  INTRODUCTION. 

To  blend  the  useful,  with  the  ornamental  and  to  exhibit  the 
gushing  forth  of  mind,  vitalised  by  the  warm  and  glowing  affec- 
tions of  the  heart,  is  the  peculiar  honor  and  sacred  destiny  of  wo- 
man. Without  her  influence,  life  would  be  arrayed  in  sables,  and 
the  proud  lords  of  creation  would  be  infinitely  more  miserable  and 
helpless  than  the  beasts  that  perish.  To  render  then  those  "  ter- 
restrial angels"  all  that  our  fondest  wishes  could  desire,  or  our 
most  vivid  imaginations  picture,  must  be,  under  any  circumstances, 
a  pleasing  and  delightful  employment ;  while  for  a  father  or  a 
brother  to  behold  her  returning  all  the  care  bestowed  upon  her,  by 
the  thousand  offices  of  love,  to  the  performance  to  which  she  alone 
is  equal,  is  doubtless  one  of  the  most  exalted  sources  of  human 
felicity 

Providence  has,  in  a  remarkable  manner,  adapted  woman's  tastto 
and  propensities  to  the  station  she  was  designed  to  occupy  in  the 
scale  of  being.  Tender  and  affectionate,  it  is  her  highest  bliss  to 
minister  to  the  wants,  the  convenience,  or  the  pleasure  of  those 
she  loves ;  and  hence,  her  inventive  powers  have  been,  in  all  ages, 
called  into  early  and  active  exercise,  in  the  fabrication  of  those  ar- 
ticles calculated  to  accomplish  those  desirable  ends.  Amongst 
these,  Useful  and  Ornamental  Needlework,  Knitting,  and  Netting, 


INTRODUCTION.  V 

occupy  a  distinguished  place,  and  are  capable  of  being  made,  not 
only  sources  of  personal  gratification,  but  of  high  moral  benefit,  and 
the  means  of  developing  in  surpassing  loveliness  and  grace,  some 
of  the  highest  and  noMest  feelings  of  the  soul. 

To  become  an  expert  needle-woman  should  be  an  object  of  am- 
bition to  every  fair  one  Never  is  beauty  and  feminine  grace 
so  attractive,  as  when  engaged  in  the  honorable  discharge  of  house- 
hold duties,  and  domestic  cares.  The  subjects  treated  of  in  this 
little  manual  are  of  vast  importance,  and  to  them  we  are  indebted 
for  a  large  amount  of  the  comforts  we  enjoy ;  as,  without  their 
aid,  we  should  be  reduced  to  a  state  of  misery  and  destitution  of 
which  it  is  hardly  possible  to  form  an  adequate  conception.  To 
learn,  then,  how,  to  fabricate  articles  of  dress  and  utility  for  family 
use,  or,  in  the  case  of  ladies  blessed  with  the  means  of  affluence, 
for  the  aid  and  comfort  of  the  deserving  poor,  should  form  one  of 
the  most  prominent  branches  of  female  education.  And  yet  ex- 
perience must  have  convinced  those  who  are  at  all  conversant  with 
the  general  state  of  society,  that  this  is  a  branch  of  study  to  which 
nothing  like  due  attention  is  paid  in  the  usual  routine  of  school  in- 
struction. The  effects  of  this  neglect  are  often  painfully  apparent 
in  after  life,  when,  from  a  variety  of  circumstances,  such  know- 


v  INTRODUCTION. 

ledge  would  be  of  the  highest  advantage,  and  subservient  to  the 
noblest  ends,  either  ef  domestic  comfort,  or  of  active  and  generous 

benevolence. 

• 

The  records  of  history  inform  us  of  the  high  antiquity  of  the 
art  of  needlework ;  and  its  beautiful  mysteries  were  amongst  the 
earliest  developments  of  female  taste  and  ingenuity.  As  civiliza- 
tion increased,  new  wants  called  forth  new  exertions ;  the  loom 
poured  forth  its  multifarious  materials,  and  the  needle,  with  its 
accompanying  implements,  gave  form  and  utiltyto  the  fabrics  sub- 
mitted to  its  operations.  No  one  can  look  upon  THE  NEEDLE, 
without  emotion ;  it  is  a  constant  companion  throughout  the  pil- 
grimage of  life.  We  find  it  the  first  instrument  of  use  placed  in 
the  hand  of  budding  childhood,  and  it  is  found  to  retain  its  useful- 
ness and  charm,  even  when  trembling  in  the  grasp  of  fast  declining 
age.  The  little  girl  first  employs  it  in  the  dressing  of  her  doll : 
then  she  is  taught  its  still  higher  use,  in  making  up  some  neces- 
sary articles  for  a  beloved  brother,  or  a  revered  parent.  Approach- 
ing to  womanhood,  additional  preparations  of  articles  of  use,  as 
ornaments  of  herself  and  others,  call  for  its  daily  employment ; 
and  with  what  tender  emotions  does  the  glittering  steel  inspire  the 
bosom,  as  beneath  its  magic  touch,  that  which  is  to  deck  a  lover 


INTRODUCTION.  vii 

or  adorn  a  bride,  becomes  visible  in  the  charming  productions  of 
female  skill  and  fond  regard.  To  the  adornments  of  the  bridal 
bed,  the  numerous  preparations  for  an  anxiously-expected  little 
stranger,  and  the  various  comforts  and  conveniences  of  life,  the 
service  of  this  little  instrument  is  indispensible.  Often  too  is  it 
found  aiding  in  the  preparation  of  gifts  of  friendship,  the  effects  of 
benevolence,  and  the  works  of  charity.  Many  of  those  articles, 
which  minister  so  essentially  to  the  solace  of  the  afflicted,  would 
be  unknown  without  it ;  and  its  friendly  aid  does  not  desert  us, 
even  in  the  dark  hour  of  sorrow  and  affliction.  By  its  aid,  we  form 
the  last  covering  which  is  to  enwrap  the  body  of  a  departed  loved 
one,  and  prepare  those  sable  habiliments,  which  custom  has 
adopted  as  the  external  signs  of  mourning. 

The  needle  is  also  capable  of  becoming  an  important  monitor  to 
the  female  heart ;  and  we  would  impress  this  truth  seriously  upon 
their  recollection,  that  as  there  is 

"  Sermons  in  stones, 
And  good  in  every  thing." 

so  the  needle  they  so  often  use,  is,  or  may  be,  a  silent  but  salutary 
moral  teacher.  They  all  know  that  however  good  the  eye  of  a 


Vui  INTRODUCTION. 

needle  may  be,  if  it  were  rusted  and  pointless,  it  would  be  of  little 
use.  Let  them  also  recollect,  that  though  it  may  posses  the  finest 
point  and  polish  in  the  world,  if  destitute  of  the  eye,  it  would  be 
of  no  use  at  all.  The  lesson  we  wish  them  to  derive  from  hence, 
is  this ;  that  as  it  is  the  eye  which  holds  the  thread,  and  that  it  is 
by  the  thread  alone  that  the  needle  becomes  useful,  so  it  is  the  eye 
of  intelligence  directed  to  the  attainment  of  useful  ends,  that  gives 
all  the  real  value  to  the  point  and  polish,  which  is  so  much  ad- 
mired in  the  educated  female ;  and  that  unless  the  intellectual 
powers  of  the  mind  be  engaged  in  the  pursuits  of  goodness,  all 
other  endowments  will  be  useless  to  their  possessor.  Let  them 
learn  also,  not  to  despise  such  of  their  companions  as,  though  in- 
telligent and  useful,  are  neither  possessed  of  wit  or  elegance  equal 
to  their  own.  Circumstances  may  have  rendered  them,  like  the 
needle,  rusty  and  pointless ;  but  the  eye  of  intelligence  is  there, 
and  they  may  still  be  useful. 

The  want  of  a  work  containing  clear  instructions,  without  un- 
necessary diffuseness,  by  which  the  uninitiated  may  become  their 
own  instructors,  has  long  been  sensibly  felt ;  and  this  want,  the 
following  pages  are  intended  to  supply.  Our  aim  is,  not  to  make 


INTRODUCTION.  IX 

young  ladies  servile  copyists,  but  to  lead  them  to  the  formation  of 
habits  of  thought  and  reflection,  which  may  issue  in  higher  attain- 
ments than  the  knitting  of  a  shawl,  or  the  netting  of  a  purse, 

Indeed,  it  is  only  when  accomplishments  are  rendered  subservi- 
ent to  the  development  of  moral  goodness,  that  they  may  become 
pursuits  at  all  worthy  Of  an  accountable  being.  We  were  not  sent 
into  this  world  to  flutter  through  life,  like  the  gaudy  butterfly,  only 
to  be  seen  and  admired.  We  were  designed  to  be  useful  to  our  fellow 
beings;  and  to  make  all  our  powers  and  capabilities, in  some  way 
or  other  conducive  to  the  happiness  and  welfare  of  our  co-journeyers 
on  the  path  of  time.  To  this  end,  we  wish  our  fair  countrywomen 
to  devote  their  best  attention ;  and,  in  its  attainment,  to  exert  every 
energy  which  they  possess.  We  wish  them  to  make  all  the  know- 
ledge which  they  may  acquire  subserve  some  noble  purpose,  which 
will  outlive  the  present  hour.  But  to  do  this,  the  well-spring  of 
the  purest  affections  must  be  opened  in  the  soul ;  and  the  elegant 
productions  of  taste  and  genius  become  vitalized,  and  animated,  by 
the  spirit  of  love.  Thus,  and  thus  only,  can  the  occupations  of  a 
leisure  hour  be  con-verted  into  efficient  ministers  of  good;  and 
such  they  will  assuredly  be  found,  if  practised  from  right  motives, 


X  INTRODUCTION. 

and  placed  in  due  subordination  to  the  right  exercise  of  more  im- 
portant duties,  which  we  owe  to  Heaven,  to  our  fellow  beings, 
and  to  ourselves. 

We  are  anxious  to  render  elegant  amusements  conducive  to  the 
attainment  of  moral  ends ;  and  to  lay  that  foundation  of  intellec- 
tual superiority,  and  affectionate  regard,  for  the  comfort  and  hap- 
piness of  others,  which  can  alone  give  light  and  animation,  sweet- 
ness and  blooming  freshness,  to  the  interesting  scenes  of  future 
life.  All  engagements,  which  are  calculated  to  elevate,  soften,  and 
harmonize  the  human  character,  have  this  tendency ;  and  it  is  in 
the  assured  conviction  that  the  employments  here  treated  of,  are, 
when  cultivated  in  due  subordination  to  higher  duties,  well  adapted 
to  secure  these  objects,  and  to  promote  these  domestic  ends,  that 
the  Ladies'  Work-Table  Book  has  been  prepared,  and  is  now  pre- 
sented to  the  lovely  daughters  of  our  land.  The  public  will  be 
the  best  judge  how  far  we  have  succeeded  in  our  effort.  Small  as 
the  work  is,  it  has  not  been  produced  without  much  labor,  and 
considerable  exercise  of  thought ;  and  it  is  dedicated  to  our  fair 
countrywomen,  in  the  fervent  hope,  that  it  will  not  be  found  al- 
together unworthy  of  their  favorable  notice  and  regard. 


INTRODUCTION.  XI 

Iii  conluding  these  introductory  remarks,  we  wish  to  say  a  word 
or  two  to  the  parents  and  guardians  of  those,  whose  excellence  of 
character  is  so  essential  to  the  welfare  of  our  beloved  country, 
We  trust  by  you,  our  little  manual  will  be  cordially  approved,  and 
placed,  as  a  memento  of  affection,  in  the  hands  of  those  you  most 
desire  to  see  models  of  sincerity,  elegance,  and  accomplishments. 
This  will  be  well ;  but  we  trust  the  matter  will  not  be  allowed  to 
rest  there.  It  is  not  when  good  instructors  and  proper  books  are 
provided  for  the  young,  that  the  duties  of  the  parental  relationship 
are  performed.  No ;  care  must  be  taken  to  give  efficiency  to  the 
means  thus  called  into  requisition,  by  the  most  assiduous  care,  de- 
voted attention,  and  judiciously  expressed  approval  on  the  part  of 
those  who  claim  the  highest  regard  from  the  rising  generation. 
The  path  of  education  is  not  always  strewed  with  flowers,  nor 
can  it  ever  be  pursued  with  either  pleasure  or  advantage  unless  a 
foundation  of  practical  piety  and  moral  worth  be  laid,  on  which 
the  superstructure  may  securely  rest. 

It  has  been  well  remarked  "  that  intellect  may  be  cultivated  at 
school,  but  that  the  affections  of  the  heart  can  only  be  properly 
developed  amid  the  scenes  of  home."  Our  aim  in  this  work  has 


Xii  INTRODUCTION. 

Deen,  while  seeking  to  promote  the  purposes  of  genuine  education, 
to  raise  high  the  moral  sentiments,  and  cultivate  to  an  eminent  de- 
gree the  best  sensibilities  of  the  soul.  In  this  we  ask  for  your 
cordial  and  careful  co-operation.  We  know  the  influence  of  a 
judicious  mother,  and  we  confidently  commend  our  labor  to  your 
favorable  regard. 


CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  I. 

MATERIALS  AND  IMPLEMENTS  FOR  WORKING    . 


» 


CHAPTER   II. 
PLAIN  NEEDLEWORK — EXPLANATION  OF  STITCHES      •      •     28 

CHAPTER    III. 

PLAIN  NEEDLEWORK — INSTRUCTIONS  IN  THE  PREPARATION 

OF  BODY  LINEN         ...         ....     37 

CHAPTER  IV. 

PLAIN  NEEDLEWORK — INSTRUCTIONS  IN  THE  PREPARATION 

OF  HOUSE  LINEN      .          .  ....    54 


Xiv  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  V. 

PLAIN  NEEDLEWORK — MISCELLANEOUS  INSTRUCTIONS        .     59 

CHAPTER  VI. 
FANCY  NEEDLEWORK — EXPLANATION  OF  STITCHES    .        ,     63 

CHAPTER  VII. 
FANCY  NEEDLEWORK — EXPLANATION  OF  PATTERNS  •     71 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
FANCY  NEEDLEWORK — INSTRUCTIONS  IN  EMBROIDERY       .     79 

CHAPTER  IX. 
FANCY  NEEDLEWORK — PREPARATION  OF  FRAMES      .         .    82 

CHAPTER  X. 

FANCY  NEEDLEWORK — APPLICATION   OF  FANCY  NEEDLE- 
WORK TO  USEFUL  PURPOSES      ....  88 


CONTENTS.  XV 

CHAPTER  XI. 
FANCY  NEEDLEWORK — SPECIAL  INSTRUCTIONS  .  .    91 

CHAPTER  XII. 
KNITTING — EXPLANATION  OF  STITCHES     .        .        .        .97 

CHAPTER  XIII. 
KNITTING — EXAMPLES  IN  KNITTING          .        .        .        .111 

CHAPTER   XIV. 
NETTING—  EXPLANATION  OF  STITCHES      .         .        .        .125 

CHAPTER  XV. 
NETTING — EXAMPLES  IN  NETTING    .        .        .        .       .135 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

CROCHET — EXPLANATION  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  STITCHES  IN. 
CROCHET  WORK  .  142 


XVI  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER   XVII. 

CROCHET — EXAMPLES  IN  CROCHET   .  .148 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 
TATTING — EXPLANATION  OF  STITCHES        .        .        .        .153 


CHAPTER   XIX. 
CONCLUDING  REMARKS 155 


THE 

LADIES'    WORK-TABLE    BOOK. 

CHAPTER    I. 

MATERIALS  AND  IMPLEMENTS  FOR  WORKING. 

MATERIALS  FOR  PLAIN  NEEDLEWORK. 

THE  subject  of  this  chapter  is  one  to  which  it  is  hardly  possi- 
ble to  pay  too  much  attention ;  since,  on  the  judicious  selection  of 
materials,  depends,  to  a  vast  extent,  the  success  of  that  prudent 
and  well-regulated  economy,  which  is  so  essential  to  the  welfare 
and  prosperity  of  every  family.  On  thKiccount,  we  have  thought 
it  right  to  place  before  our  readers  the  following  observations, 
which  should  be  carefully  attended  to,  as  of  the  utmost  impor- 
tance. In  purchasing  goods,  be  careful  to  examine  the  quality ; 
and,  if  not  experienced  in  such  matters,  take  with  you  an  experi- 
enced friend.  Cheap  goods  generally  prove  the  dearest  in  the  end. 
The  following  rules  may  assist  you  in  this  respect,  if  under  the 
necessity  of  relying  upon  your  own  judgment.  Be  careful,  in 
purchasing  articles,  such  as  linen,  calico,  &c.,  for  a  specific  pur- 
pose, to  have  it  the  proper  width.  A  great  deal  of  waste  may  be 
incurred,  by  inattention  to  this  important  direction. 

CALICO  is  often  so  dressed  up,  as  to  make  it  extremely  difficult 
to  ascertain  its  real  quality :  hence,  it  is  best  to  buy  it  undressed. 
It  should  be  soft,  and  free  from  specks.  It  is  of  various  widths^ 


18  THE  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

and  of  almost  all  prices.  A  good  article,  at  a  medium  price,  will 
be  found  cheapest  in  the  end. 

LINEN  is  of  various  qualities.  That  which  is  called  Suffolk 
hemp  is  considered  the  best.  Irish  linen  is  also  in  great  repute. 
But  you  must  be  careful  to  escape  imposition ;  as  there  are  plenty 
of  imitations,  which  are  good  for  nothing. 

MUSLIN  CHECKS  are  much  used  for  caps,  &c.,  and  are  of  vari- 
ous qualities.  You  may  form  a  good  judgment  of  these,  by  ob- 
serving the  thin  places  between  the  checks  and  the  threads ;  if  the 
former  be  good,  and  the  latter  even,  they  may  generally  be  relied  on. 

BLUE  CHECKS. — These  may  be  procured  either  of  cotton  or  lin- 
en ;  but  the  linen  ones,  though  highest  in  price,  are  cheapest  in 
the  end :  they  will  wear  double  the  length  of  time  that  the  cotton 
ones  will. 

PRINTS. — Give  a  good  price,  if  you  wish  to  secure  a  good  arti- 
cle. Some  colors,  as  red^ink,  lilac,  bright  brown,  buff,  and  blue, 
wear  well ;  green,  violet,  ^d  some  other  colors  are  very  liable  to 
fade.  The  best  way  is  to  procure  a  patch,  and  wash  half  of  it 
This  will  test  the  color,  and  may  prevent  much  disappointment 

FLANNELS. — The  Welsh  flannels  are  generally  preferred,  as 
those  that  are  the  most  durable.  Lancashire  flannels  are  cheapest, 
but  are  far  inferior  in  quality.  You  may  know  the  one  from  the 
other  by  the  color :  the  flannels  of  Lancashire  are  of  a  yellowish 
hue ;  those  of  Wales  are  a  kind  of  bluish  gray  tint 

WOOLLEN  CLOTHS. — These  vary  exceedingly,  as  to  quality. 
The  low-priced  ones  are  not  worth  half  the  purchase  money. 
Good  woollen  cloth  is  smooth,  and  has  a  good  nap.  If  the  sam- 
ple shown  you,  be  destitute  of  these  qualities,  have  nothing  to  do 
with  it,  unless  you  want  to  be  cheated. 

STUFFS. — The  quality  of  these  is  sometimes  very  difficult  to 


THE  LADIES'  WOKK-TABLE  BOOK.  19 

detect.  Holding  them  up  to  the  light  is  a  good  plan.  You  should 
also  be  particular  as  to  the  dyeing,  as  that  is  sometimes  very  indif- 
ferently managed,  and  the  stufi  is  dashed.  Black  dye  is  liable  to 
injure  the  material.  Low-priced  stuffs  are  rarely  good  for  anything. 

CRAPE. — This  is  often  damaged  in  the  dying.  You  should 
spread  it  over  a  white  surface  before  you  purchase  it,  as  by  that 
means,  the  blemishes  in  the  material,  if  any,  will  be  more  likely 
to  appear. 

SILKS. — These  are,  if  good,  costly ;  and  great  care  should  be 
exercised  in  selecting  them.  They  should  not  be  too  stiff,  as  in 
that  case  they  are  liable  to  crack ;  and  on  the  other  hand,  they 
should  not  be  too  thin,  as  that  kind  is  liable  to  tear  almost  as  soon 
as  paper.  A  medium  thickness  and  stiffness  is  the  best.  If  plain, 
you  must  be  careful  that  there  are  no  stains  or  specks  in  them ; 
and  if  figured,  it  is  advisable  to  have  the  pattern  equally  good  on 
both  sides,  This  will  enhance  the  price  at  first,  but  you  will  find 
it  to  be  good  economy  afterward.  In  silks  that  are  to  be  sold 
theap,  a  kind  of  camel's  hair  is  frequently  introduced.  This  may 
be  detected  by  pulling  a  piece  of  the  suspected  silk  cross  ways, 
ind  if  camel's  hair  be  mixed  with  it,  it  will  spring  with  a  kind  of 
whirring  sound.  This  should  be  attended  to. 

SATIN. — It  is  of  various  qualities  and  prices.  The  best  is  soft 
and  thick.  When  used  for  trimmings,  it  should  be  cut  the  cross 
way,  as  it  then  looks  better,  and  has  a  much  richer  appearance 
than  when  pui  on  straight. 

These  general  observations  will  be  of  great  use,  and  should  be 
well  impressed  upon  the  memory,  so  as  readily  to  be  called  into 
exercise  when  needed. 

In  making  up  linen,  thread  is  much  preferable  to  cotton.  Sew- 
ing-silk should  be  folded  up  neatly  in  wash  leather,  and  colored 


20  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK- 

threads  and  cotton  in  paper,  as  the  air  and  light  are  likely  to  in- 
jure them.  Buttons,  hooks  and  eyes,  and  all  metal  implements, 
when  not  in  use,  should  be  kept  folded  up ;  as  exposure  to  the 
air  not  only  tarnishes  them,  but  is  likely  to  injure  them  in  a  vari- 
ety of  ways. 

MATERIALS    FOE   FANCY    NEEDLEWORK. 

Canvas  (coarse)  eighteen  threads  to  the  inch.  Work  in  cross 
stitch  with  double  wool.  This  is  proper  for  a  foot-stool,  sofa- 
pillow,  &c.  , 

Canvas  (very  coarse)  ten  threads  to  the  inch.  Work  in  cross 
stitch,  over  one  thread,  with  single  wooL  If  used  for  grounding, 
work  in  two  threads.  This  will  accelerate  the  work,  and  look 
equally  welL 

Silk  Leaves. — If  no  grounding  is  required,  work  in  tent  stitch. 
The  pattern  should  be  large  in  proportion  to  the  fineness  of  the 
material.  The  finer  the  canvas,  the  larger  the  pattern. 

Color. — An  attention  to  shade  is  of  the  utmost  consequence ; 
as  on  this,  in  an  eminent  degree,  depends  the  perfection  of  the 
work.  The  shades  must  be  so  chosen,  as  to  blend  into  each  oth- 
er, or  all  harmony  of  coloring  will  be  destroyed.  The  canvas 
must  be  more  distinct  in  tent  stitch  than  in  cross  stitch,  or  rather 
more  strongly  contrasted,  especially  in  the  dark  shades  of  flowers: 
without  attention  to  this  point,  a  good  resemblance  of  nature  can- 
not be  obtained. 

Wool,  (English  and  German)  white,  black,  and  various  colors. 
— Two,  three,  four,  five,  or  six  shades  of  each  color,  as  the  na- 
ture of  the  work  may  require.  The  same  observation  applies  to 
silk  and  cotton,  in  cases  where  those  materials  are  used. 

Split  wool,  for  mosaic  work. 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 


21 


Silk.  Split  silk.  Floss.  Half  twist.  Deckers.  China  silk. 
Fine  purse  silk. 

Cotton,  of  various  kinds. 

Gold  twist.     Silver  thread.     Chenille. 

Beads.  Thick  and  transparent  gold.  Bright  and  burnt  steel. 
Silver  plated,  &c. 

Perforated  cards. 

Canvas,  called  bolting,  for  bead  work. 

SCALE   OF    CANVASES. 


Fjiglish  Canvas. 

French  Canvas. 

Canv- 

Cross 

Tent 

Canvas 

Cross 

Tent 

Canvas 

Cross 

Tent 

us  No. 

stitch. 

stitch. 

Number. 

stitch. 

stitch. 

Number 

stitch. 

stitch 

16 

41 

9 

40 

11 

22 

10 

6-L 

13 

18 

53 

10 

42 

lU 

23 

12 

7! 

1  <J 

15 

20 

5- 

11 

45    . 

25 

14 

4 

17 

22 

62 

12 

48 

132 

26 

16 

9? 

^2 

19 

24 

61 

13 

50 

14 

28 

18 

10 

20 

26 

7 

14 

55 

15 

30 

19 

11 

22 

28 

71 
'3 

15 

60 

17 

34 

20 

12 

24 

30 

8 

16 

22 

13 

26 

32 

9 

18 

Silk 

24 

14 

28 

34 

91 

19 

Hanvas 

14 

28 

26 

36 

10" 

20 

30 

15 

30 

38 

io| 

21 

40 

16 

32 

MATERIALS    FOR    EMBROIDERY. 

Silk,  satin,  velvet,  and  cloth. 

MATERIALS   FOR   KNITTING,    NETTING,    AND    CROCHET. 

SILK. — This  material  is  extensively  used  in  the  various  produc- 
tions ol  which  we  are  about  to  treat.  The  kinds  usually  employed 
in  "Knitting  Netting,  and  Crochet,  are  purse  silk,  or  twist ;  coarse 
and  fine  netting  silk  ;  second  sized  purse  twist ;  plain  silk  ;  China 


22  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

silk ;  extra  fine,  and  finest  netting  silk ;  second  sized  netting  silk ; 
coarse  and  fine  chenille,  and  crochet  silk.  These  are  so  well  known 
that  it  would  be  a  waste  of  time  to  describe  them  in  detail.  They 
are  of  a  great  variety  of  colors,  and  of  different  qualities  ;  some 
sorts  being  much  more  durable,  both  in  fabric  and  color,  than  others 
No  young  lady  should  trust,  at  first,  to  her  own  judgment  in  mak- 
ing the  selection :  but  a  little  attention  will  soon  render  her  a  pro- 
ficient hi  the  art  of  choosing  the  most  profitable  materials.  The 
China  silks  of  the  French  surpass  all  others,  of  that  kind,  with 
which  we  are  acquainted,  both  as  to  the  nature  of  tints,  and  the 
brilliancy  of  the  various  dyes  and  shades. 

Wool. — This  is  of  various  colors  and  shades ;  German  wool,  sin- 
gle, and  double  ;  Hamburgh  wool,  fleecy,  of  three,  four,  five,  six, 
seven,  and  eight  threads ;  embroidery  fleecy  Shetland  wool ;  English 
wool,  coarse  yarn,  for  mitts, 

BRIEF   DESCRIPTION   OF   WOOLS. 

German  wool  is  the  produce  of  the  merino  breed,  in  its  highest 
state  of  cultivation,  and  is  the  best  sheep's  wool  we  possess.  The 
merino  fleece  is  brought  to  the  greatest  perfection  in  Saxony,  and 
the  adjacent  states.  It  is  chiefly  manufactured  for  the  purposes 
of  needle-work,&c.,  at  Gotha;  the  dyeing  of  it  is  performed  at  Ber- 
lin, and  in  other  parts  of  Germany.  The  wools  of  Germany  are, 
in  fineness  and  softness,  much,  superior  to  those  of  Spain.  The 
wool  is  prepared  in  various  sizes,  and  for  some  kinds  of  work, 
may  be  split  with  great  advantage.  A  large  quantity  is  imported 
into  this  country  in  a  raw  state,  and  is  dyed  and  manufactured  here. 
Some  of  this  is  equal  to  the  wools  prepared  in  Germany,  as  to 
quality  ;  but  the  brilliancy  of  the  color  will  not  bear  comparison. 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  23 

This  remark  does  not  extend  to  the  black  German  wool,  prepared 
in  this  country,  and  which  is  far  superior  to  that  prepared  on  the 
continent.  Much  wool,  of  a  very  superior  quality  is  annually  pre- 
pared for  the  market ;  and  so  great  is  its  resemblance  to  a  superior 
article,  that  it  requires  much  attention,  and  an  experienced  eye,  to 
detect  the  fraud.  English  wool,  or  what  is  often  called  embroidery 
wool,  is  much  harsher  than  that  of  Germany ;  yet  it  is  of  a  very 
superior  kind,  and  much  to  be  preferred  for  some  kinds  of  work. 
The  dye  of  several  colors  of  English  lamb's  wool  is  equal  to  that 
of  the  best  dyes  of  Germany  ;  especially  scarlet  and  some  of  the 
shades  of  blue,  green,  and  gold  color,  which  for  brilliancy  and  per- 
manency, may  justly  claim  equality  with  the  most  finished  produc- 
tions of  the  continental  states. 

Worsted  is  another  description  of  our  native  produce,  and  is 
extensively  used  for  a  great  variety  of  useful  purposes,  which  are 
familiar  to  every  one.  A  great  portion  of  the  needle- work  of  the 
last  century  was  done  in  a  fine  kind  of  worsted,  called  CREWELS  : 
and  some  specimens  still  remain,  which  do  great  credit  to  the  ven- 
erable grandames  of  the  present  generation.  Yarn  is  a  coarse 
kind  of  worsted,  much  employed  in  making  garden  nets,  and  for 
various  other  purposes.  Fleecy  (English)  is  manufactured  from 
the  Leicestershire  breed,  and  is  much  used  in  knitting  and  netting: 
it  is  of  two  qualities;  both  varying  in  size,  from  an  eighth  to  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  They  are  made  up  of  threads, 
varying  from  two  to  twelve,  and  are  both  equally  good.  They 
are  applied  to  crochet  as  well  as  to  the  other  descriptions  of  work 
named.  German  fleecy,  thought  but  little  used,  is  much  superior 
to  that  of  this  country.  Hamburgh  wool  is  an  excellent  article, 
but  has  not  hitherto  been  much  in  request.  Great  care  is  neces- 
sary, in  selecting  wool  of  good  quality  :  but  let  the  young  novice 


24  LADIES'  WORK  TABLE  BOOK. 

give  to  the  subject  her  best  attention ;  and  should  she  find  herself 
sometimes  deceived,  still  persevere,  remembering  that  "  practice 
makes  perfect." 

COTTON,  of  various  sizes,  as  numbered  from  one  to  six,  or  higher 
if  required.  In  the  choice  of  this  material,  much  care  is  needed, 
not  only  in  the  selection  of  colors  and  shades,  but  also  to  ascer- 
tain if  the  color  has  been  stained  with  a  permanent  dye. 

DOWN. — This  is  sometimes  used  for  stuffing  knitted  cushions, 
muffs,  &c.,  and  is  too  well  known  to  need  any  description  here. 

GOLD  AND  SILVER  THREAD  AND  CORD. — The  precious  metals 
are  now  very  generally  employed  in  the  ornamental  parts  of  all 
kinds  of  fancy  work.  Gold  and  silver  threads  consists  of  a  thread 
of  silk,  round  which  is  spun  an  exceedingly  fine  wire  of  the  metal 
required.  For  gold,  silver  or  copper  gilt  wire  is  employed,  as  pure 
gold  could  not  be  so  easily  wrought.  These  threads  can  be  em- 
ployed in  almost  any  way  which  the  taste  of  the  fair  artist  may 
induce  her  to  devise  Besides  the  thread,  gold  and  silver  cord  is 
also  in  much  demand,  and  looks  extremely  beautiful,  when  em- 
ployed with  taste  and  judgment.  This  material  is  a  twist,  and  is 
composed  of  different  quantities  of  threads,  according  to  the  thick- 
ness required.  Much  care  is  required  in  working  with  it,  or  the 
beauty  of  the  material  will  be  spoilt.  It  is  much  used  in  crochet, 
and  without  due  attention,  the  point  of  the  needle  is  liable  to  catch 
the  cord,  and  to  break  the  wire,  which  would  entirely  destroy  the 
beauty  of  the  performance. 

BEADS. — These  beautiful  fabrications  of  art,  are  composed  of 
gold,  silver,  polished  steel,  and  glass.  There  is  also  a  beautiful 
sort  called  garnet  beads,  with  gold  points.  All  these  can  be  pro- 
cured at  any  of  the  establishments  for  the  sale  of  fancy  articles, 
and  are  to  he  employed  as  the  judgment  or  fancy  may  direct  The 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  25 

gold  beads  are  used  in  making  all  kinds  of  knitting,  netting,  and 
crochet,  and  look  well  either  by  themselves,  or  when  in  connec- 
tion with  those  of  the  other  materials  named.  Glass  beads,  may 
be  procured  of  any  variety  of  color,  and  when  in  combination  with 
gold,  silver,  or  steel,  form  a  beautiful  relief. 

NECESSARY    IMPLEMENTS    FOR    FANCY   NEEDLEWORK. 

Frames.  Cross  stitch  needles.  Sewing  needles.  Meshes,  of 
various  sizes — at  least  three.  Chenille  Needles.  Pair  of  long 
sharp-pointed  scissors.  Cartridge  Paper.  Tissue  Panel  A  fine 
piercer.  Seam  piercer.  Camel's  hair  brushes. 

Mixture  of  white  lead  and  gum  water,  to  draw  patterns  for  dark 
materials. 

Mixture  of  stone  blue  and  gum  water,  for  light  colors. 

Black  lead  pencils. 

NECESSARY    IMPLEMENTS   FOR   KNITTING. 

Needles  of  various  sizes.  The  Nos.  referred  to  are  those  oi 
the  knitting  needle  gauge.  Needles  pointed  at  either  end,  for 
Turkish  knitting.  Ivory,  or  wooden  pins,  for  knitting  a  biroche. 
A  knitting  sheath,  &c.,  to  be  fastened  on  the  waist  of  the  knitter, 
toward  the  right  hand,  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  needle  in 
a  steady  and  proper  position. 

NECESSARY    IMPLEMENTS    FOR    NETTING. 

A  pin  or  mesh,  on  which  to  form  the  loops.  A  needle  called 
a  netting  needle,  formed  into  a  kind  of  fork,  with  two  prongs  at 
each  end.  The  ends  of  the  prongs  meet  and  form  a  blunt  point, 
not  fastened  like  the  eye  of  a  common  needle,  but  left  open,  that 
the  thread  or  twine  may  pass  between  them,  and  be  wound  upon 
the  needle.  The  prongs  are  brought  to  a  point,  in  order  that  the 


26  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

needle  may  pass  through  a  small  loop  without  interruption.  Twine 
to  form  foundations.  A  fine  long  darning  needle  for  bead  work. 
Meshes  of  various,  sizes  from  No.  1  to  11.  Flat  meshes,  and 
ivory  meshes  ;  also  of  various  sizes.  The  gauge  is  the  same  as 
that  for  knitting-needles. 

NECESSARY   IMPLEMENTS    FOR    CROCHET. 

Ivory  crochet  needles  of  various  sizes.     Steel  crochet  needles. 


Rug  needles  and  a  pair  of  long  sharp  pointed  scissors.  These  im- 
plements should  be  disposed  in  a  regular  and  orderly  manner,  as 
should  also  the  materials  for  working.  Order  and  regularity  are 
matters  but  too  frequently  neglected  in  the  gay  and  buoyant  sea- 
son of  youth  ;  and  this  fault,  which  is  the  parent  of  so  much  an- 
noyance in  after  life,  is  but  too  generally  overlooked  by  those 
whose  duty  it  is  to  correct  these  incipient  seeds  of  future  mischief. 
No  pursuit  should  be  entered  into  by  the  young,  without  having 
some  moral  end  in  view,  and  this  is  especially  needful  to  be  ob- 
served in  cases,  where  at  first  sight,  it  might  appear  a  matter  of 
indifference,  whether  the  pursuit  was  one  of  utility,  or  of  mere  re- 
laxation. We  earnestly  entreat  our  young  friends,  never  to  for- 
get, that  even  our  amusements  may  be  rendered  an  acceptable  sac- 
rifice to  their  heavenly  Father,  if  they  assiduously  endeavor  to 
make  the  habits  they  form  in  their  seasons  of  relaxation  from 
graver  studies,  conduce  to  the  development  of  the  higher  faculties 
of  their  nature,  and  subordinate  preparations  for  a  more  exalted 
state  of  being,  than  any  which  this  transitory  scene  can  of  it 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  27 

present  to  their  contemplation  and  pursuits.     Dyer,  speaking  of 
Tapestry,  has  beautifully  said — 

"  This  bright  art 

Did  zealous  Europe  learn  of  Pagan  lands, 
While  she  assayed  with  rage  of  holy  war 
To  desolate  their  fields  ;  but  old  the  skill : 
Long  were  the  Phrygian's  pict'ring  looms  renown'd  ; 
Tyre  also,  wealthy  seat  of  art,  excell'd, 
And  elder  Sidon,  in  th'  historic  web." 

But  we  would  have  our  fair  friends  to  place  before  them  a  high 
and  a  definite  object.     Let  them  seek,  like  the  excellent  Miss 

Linwood — 

* 

"  To  raise  at  once  our  reverence  and  delight, 
To  elevate  the  mind  and  charm  the  sight, 
To  pour  religion  through  the  attentive  eye, 
And  waft  the  soul  on  wings  of  extacy ;" 
Bid  mimic  art  with  nature's  self  to  vie, 
And  raise  the  spirit  to  its  native  sky. 


CHAPTER    11. 

PLAIN   NEEDLEWORK- 

EXPLANATION   OF   STITCHES. 

BEFORE  commencing  those  directions,  which  we  deem  it  neces- 
sary to  place  before  our  readers,  in  reference  to  this  important 
portion  of  the  work-table  manual,  we  wish  to  say  a  word  or  two 
to  our  fair  countrywomen,  on  the  importance  of  a  general  and 
somewhat  extensive  acquaintance  with  those  arts,  on  which  so 
much  of  the  comfort  of  individual  and  domestic  life  depends. 
Economy  of  time,  labor,  and  expenses,  is  an  essential  requisite  in 
every  family;  and  will  ever  claim  a  due  share  of  attention,  from 
her  who  is  desirous  of  fulfilling  with  credit  to  herself  and  ad- 
vantage to  others,  the  allotted  duties  of  her  appointed  station.  To 
those,  who  are  at  the  head  of  the  majority  of  families,  an  exten- 
sive knowledge  of  the  various  departments  of  plain  needlework  is 
indispensable.  The  means  placed  at  their  disposal  are  limited ;  in 
many  instances,  extremely  so :  and  to  make  the  most  of  these 
means,  generally  provided  by  the  continual  care  and  unremitting 
attention  of  the  father  and  the  husband,  is  a  sacred  duty,  which 
cannot  be  violated  without  the  entailment  of  consequences  which 
every  well  regulated  mind  must  be  anxious  to  avoid. 

The  following  are  the  principal  stiches  used  in  plain  needle- 
work. 


LADIES1    WORK-TABLE    HOOK.  29 

SEWING  AND  FELLING. — If  you  have  selvages,  join  them  to- 
gether and  sew  them  firmly.  If  you  have  raw  edges,  turn  down 
one  of  the  edges  once,  and  the  other  double  the  breadth,  and  then 
turn  half  of  it  back  again.  This  is  for  the  fell.  The  two  pieces 
are  pinned  face  to  face,  and  seamed  together ;  the  stitches  being 
in  a  slanting  direction,  and  just  deep  enough  to  hold  the  separate 
pieces  firmly  together.  Then  flatten  the  seam  with  the  thumb, 
turn  the  work  over  and  fell  it  the  same  as  hemming.  The  thread 
is  fastened  by  being  worked  between  the  pieces  and  sewn  over. 

HEMMINGS. — Turn  down  the  raw  edge  as  evenly  as  possible. 
Flatten,  and  be  careful,  especially  in  turning  down  the  corners. 
Hem  from  right  to  leff;  bring  the  point  of  the  needle  from  the 
chest  toward  the  right  hand.  Fasten  the  thread  with  out  a  knot, 
and  when  you  finish,  sew  several  stitches  close  together,  and  cut 
off  the  thread. 

GERMAN  HEMMING. — Turn  down  both  the  raw  edges  once, 
taking  care  so  to  do  it,  as  that  both  turns  may  be  toward  your 
person ;  you  then  lay  one  below  the  other,  so  as  that  the  smooth 
edge  of  the  nearest  does  not  touch  the  other,  but  lies  just  beneath 
it.  The  lower  one  is  then  to  be  hemmed  or  felled  to  the  piece 
against  which  you  have  laid  it,  still  holding  it  before  you.  You 
are  next  to  open  your  sleeve,  or  whatever  else  you  have  been  em- 
ployed upon ;  and  laying  the  upper  fold  over  the  lower,  fell  it 
down,  and  the  work  is  done. 

MANTUAMAKER'S  HEM. — You  lay  the  raw  edge  of  one  of  your 
pieces  a  little  below  the  other;  the  upper  edge  is  then  turned 
over  the  other  twice,  and  felled  down  as  strong  as  possible. 

RUNNING. — Take  three  threads,  leave  three,  and  in  order  that 
(he  work  may  be  kept  as  firm  as  possible,  back-stitch  occasionally. 
If  you  sew  selvages,  they  must  be  joined  evenly  together  ;  but  if 


30  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

raw  edges,  one  must  be  turned  down  once,  and  the  other  laid  upon 
it,  but  a  few  threads  from  the  top.  It  is,  in  this  case,  to  be  felled 
afterwards. 

STITCHING. — The  work  must  be  even  as  possible.  Turn  down 
a  piece  to  stitch  to,  draw  a  thread  to  stitch  upon,  twelve  or  four- 
teen threads  from  the  edge.  Being  thus  prepared,  you  take  two 
threads  back,  and  so  bring,  the  needle  out,  from  under  two  before. 
Proceed  in  this  manner,  to  the  end  of  the  row  ;  and  in  joining  a 
fresh  piece  of  thread,  take  care  to  pass  the  needle  between  the  edges 
and  bring  it  out  where  the  last  stitch  was  finished. 

GATHERING — You  begin  by  taking  the  article  to  be  gathered,  and 
dividing  it  into  halves,  and  then  into  quarters,  putting  on  pins,  to 
make  the  divisions.  The  piece,  to  which  you  are  intending  to 
gather  it,  must  be  gathered  about  twelve  threads  from  the  top,  tak- 
ing three  threads  on  the  needle,  and  leaving  four ;  and  so  preceding, 
alternately,  until  one  quarter  is  gathered.  Fasten  the  thread,  by 
twisting  it  round  a  pin;  stroke  the  gathers,  so  that  they  lie  evenly 
and  neatly,  with  a  strong  needle  or  pin.  You  then  proceed  as  be- 
fore, until  all  the  gathers  are  gathered,  Then  take  out  the  pins, 
and  regulate  the  gathers  of  each  quarter,  so  as  to  correspond  with 
those  of  the  piece  to  which  it  is  to  be  sewed.  The  gathers  are 
then  to  be  fastened  on,  one  at  a  time  ;  and  the  stitches  must  be  in 
a  slanting  direction.  The  part  to  be  gathered  must  be  cut  quite 
even  before  commencing,  or  else  it  will  be  impossible  to  make  the 
gathering  look  well. 

DOUBLE  GATHERING,  or  PUFFING. — This  is  sometimes  employed 
in  setting  on  frills ;  and  when  executed  properly  has  a  pretty  effect. 
You  first  gather  the  top,  in  the  usual  way  ;  then,  having  stroked 
down  the  gathers,  you  gather  again  under  the  first  gathering,  and 
of  such  a  depth  as  you  wish  the  puffing  to  be.  You  then  sew  on 


LADIES'    WORK-TABLE    BOOK.  31 

the  first  gathering  to  the  gown,  frock,  &c.  you  design  to  trim,  at  a 
distance,  corresponding  with  the  width  of  the  puffing :  and  the  sec- 
ond gathering  sewed  to  the  edge,  so  as  to  form  a  full  hem.  You 
may  make  a  double  hem,  if  you  please,  by  gathering  three  times 
instead  of  only  twice ;  and  one  of  the  hems  may  be  straight,  while 
the  other  is  drawn  to  one  side  a  little.  This  requires  much  exact- 
ness, in  the  execution  ;  but  if  properly  done,  it  gives  a  pleasing 
variety  to  the  work. 

WHIPPING. — You  cut  the  edge  smooth,  and  divide  into  halves 
and  quarters,  as  for  gathering.  You  then  roll  the  muslin  or  other 
material  very  lightly  upon  the  finger,  making  use  of  the  leit  thumb 
for  that  purpose  The  needle  must  go  in  on  the  outside,  and  be 
brought  through,  on  the  inside.  The  whipping-cotton  should  be 
as  strong  and  even  as  possible.  In  order  that  the  stitches  may 
draw  with  ease,  they  must  be  taken  with  great  care.  The  roll  of 
the  whip  should  be  about  ten  threads. 

BUTTON-HOLE  STITCH. — These  should  be  cut  by  a  thread,  and 
their  length  should  be  that  of  the  diameter 
of  the  button.  In  working,  the  button- 
hole must  lie  lengthways  upon  the  fore- 
finger ;  and  you  begin  at  the  side  which 
is  opposite  to  the  thumb,  and  the  furthest 
from  the  point  of  the  finger  qn  which  it  is 
laid.  The  needle  must  go  in  on  the  wrong  side,  and  be  brought 
out  on  the  right,  five  threads  down.  To  make  the  stitch,  the 
needle  is  passed  through  the  loop  before  it  is  drawn  close.  In  turn- 
ins:  the  corners,  be  careful  not  to  do  it  too  near;  and  in  order  that  a 
proper  thickness  may  be  obtained,  it  is  necessary  that  the  needle 
should  go  in  between  every  two  threads.  Making  button-holes, 
requires  great  care  and  attention. 


32 


LADIES     WORK-TABLE    BOOK. 


FANCY  BUTTON-HOLE  STITCH. — This  resembles  a  very  wide 
button-hole  stitch,  and  is  very  neat  for  the 
fronts  of  bodies,  where  it  has  a  very  pretty 
appearance ;  likewise  for  the  bands  and  the 
shoulder  bits,  and  above  the  broad  hems 
and  tucks  of  frocks. 
CHAIN  STITCH. — In  making  this  stitch,  you  are  to  employ 
union  cord,  bobbin,  or  braid,  whichever  you  think 
most  suitable.     Make  a  knot  at  the  end,  and  draw 
it  through  to  the  right  side.     While  you  put  in  the 
needle,  let  the  end  hang  loose,  and  bring  it  out  be- 
low, so  as  to  incline  a  little  towards  the  left  hand. 
Pass  your  needle  over  the  cord,  as  you  draw  it  out, 
and  this  will  form  a  loop.     In  drawing  out  the 
mesh,  you  must  be  careful  not  to  draw  the  stitch 
too  tight,  as  that  would  destroy  the  effect.     You 
proceed  in  the  same  manner  to  form  the  next,  and  each  succeed- 
ing loop ;  taking  care  to  put  the  needle  in  a  little  higher,  an  d  ra- 
ther more  to  the  right  than  in  the  preceding  stitch,  so  that  each 
loop  begins  within  the  lower  part  of  the  one  going  before  it,  and 
you  thus  produce  the  resemblance  of  a  chain. 

FANCY  CHAIN  STITCH. — The  only  difference  between  this  and 
the  common  chain  stitch,  is  that  very  little 
of  the  cord  is  taken  up  on  the  needle  at  a 
time,  and  the  stitches  are  far  from  each 
other.  Its  appearance  will  be  varied,  ac- 
cording as  you  put  in  the  needle,  to  slant 
little  or  much.  If  you  should  work  it  per- 
fectly horizontal,  it  is  the  same  as  button- 
hole stitch. 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  33 

HERRING-BONING. — This  is  generally  employed  in  articles  com- 
posed of  flannel,  or  other  thick  material. 
The  edge  is  to  be  cut  even,  and  turned 
down  once.  You  work  from  left  to  right, 
thus:  Put  your  needle  into  the  material, 
and  take  a  stitch  of  two  or  three  threads, 
as  close  as  possible,  under  the  raw  edge,  and  bring  the  needle 
half  way  up  that  part  which  is  turned  down,  and  four  or  five 
threads  toward  the  right  hand ;  make  another  stitch,  and  bring 
down  the  needle ;  thus  proceed  until  the  work  is  finished.  This 
stitch  is  something  like  the  back-bone  of  a  fish,  and  is  sometimes 
used  as  an  ornament  for  children's  robes,  and  at  the  top  of  hems. 
It  looks  both  neat  and  elegant,  when  carefully  executed. 

FANCY  HERRINOBONING. — This  is  the  same  as  common  her- 
ring-bone, only  it  is  done  in  a  perpendicular  man- 
ner, instead  of  being  worked  horizontally  from  left 
to  right ;  and  the  thread  is  brought  round  behind 
the  needle,  so  as  to  finish  the  work  in  a  more  ele- 
gant manner.  It  has  an  exceeding  neat  and  pleas- 
ing look,  when  it  is  well  executed,  and  is  consid- 
ered as  highly  ornamental,  in  appropriate  situa- 
tions 

ANGULAR  STITCH. — This  stitch  resembles  button-hole  stitch, 
only  it  is  carried  from  right  to  left 
to  form  the  pattern.     It  is  a  neat 
ornament  for  cuffs,  skirts  and  capes, 
and  children's  pelisses.     As  much 
of  its  beauty  depends  on  its  regularity,  care  should  be  taken  to 
make  the  patterns  very  even  and  straight,  and  of  an  equal  width  ; 
without  due  attention  to  this,  the  work  will  be  spoiled. 


34  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

DOUBLE  HERRING-BONING. — This  pattern  is  a  kind  of  double 
herring-bone,  on  each  side  ;  it 
is  too  intricate  to  describle  mi- 
nutely. The  engraving  will 
give  a  better  idea  of  this  stitch 
than  any  description  we  could 
give.  Great  care  being  required  to  keep  the  pattern  even,  it  is 
advisable  to  run  a  tacking  thread  down  the  middle  of  it,  to  serve 
as  a  guide. 

HORSE-SHOE  STITCH. — This  is  done  with  thick,  loosely-twisted 
cotton,  or  bobbin,  and  is  worked 
from  left  to  right,  as  shown  in  the 
accompanying  engraving.  It  has  a 
very  neat  and  pretty  appearance, 
when  worked  near  the  edge  of  hems, 
robings,  &c. 

FANCY  BOBBIN  EDGING. — This  is  formed  by  a  succession  of 
loops  made  in  the  following  manner : 
Make  a  knot  at  the  end,  and  put  the 
needle  through  to  the  right  side,  just 
below  the  hem.  Bring  the  bobbin 
over  the  hem,  and,  putting  the  needle 
in  at  the  wrong  side,  bring  it  through 
to  the  right.  Draw  the  loop  to  the 

si/e  you  desire,  pass  tne  bobbin  through  it,  and  commence  the 
next  stitch,  proceeding  as  before. 

CHAIN  STITCH,  ON  GATHERS. — This  looks  well,  if  worked  in 
colored  worsted,  or  in  cord.  Two  gathers  are  taken  up  for  each 
stitch,  taking  care  always  to  take  one  of  the  previous  stitches  and 
one  new  gather  on  the  needle  at  the  same  time. 


LADIES'  WOPK-TABLE  BOOK.  33 

CORAL  PATTERN. — This  requires  great  accuracy  in  the  work- 
ing, and  it  is  advisable  for  the  inexpe- 
rienced to  run  lines,  in  long  stitches, 
to  fix  the  middle  and  outsides  of  the 
pattern.  It  may  be  best  understood  by 
the  engraving,  merely  observing  that 
the  stitch  is  begun  on  the  left  hand, 
and  continued  alternately  from  left  to 
right,  always  pointing  the  needle  toward  the  centre.  It  is  very 
suitable  for  the  waist-bands  of  children's  frocks,  the  tops  of  broad 
hems,  &c. 

FERPENTTNE  STITCH. — This  is  exceedingly  pretty,  and  is  much 
employed  for  children's  dresses.  It 
is  worked  with  the  hand,  being  sewn 
on  to  the  material  when  made.  Take 
the  cord,  knot  it  so  as  to  form  a  loop 

at  the  end ;  then  pass  the  other  end  through  the  loop,  toward  the 
front,  to  form  another  loop  to  the  right  hand  ;  continue  passing 
the  bobbin  through  the  loop  on  one  side,  then  through  the  loop  on 
the  other,  directing  the  cord  so  as  to  pass  from  the  side  of  the 
work  invariably  towards  the  inner,  or  that  part  next  the  work. 
BIASSING. — In  this  operation,  the  first  part  of  the  stitch  is  the 
same  as  gathering.      You  then  stitch 
down ;  and  upon  the  right  side  of  the 
gather,  you  lay  a  thread  a  good  deal 
thicker  than  the  one  you  used  for  gath- 
ering thread.     Over    this    thread    you 
sew,  taking  care  to  take  hold  also  of  the 
gathering  thread.     The  needle  is  always  to  be  pointed  toward 
your  chest.     You  may  work  two  or  three  rows  in  this  way,  on 


36  LADIES'  WORK  TABLE  BOOK. 

the  sleeves  and  shoulders  of  dresses,  &c.,  which  has  a  handsome 
effect.  You  must  take  grest  care  to  bring  the  needle  out  between 
each  one  of  the  gathers. 

HONEY  COMBING. — The  material  may  be  velvet,  silk,  &c. ;  and 
the  mode  of  working  is  as  follows : 
The  piece  you  intend  honey-comb- 
ing, must  be  creased  in  regular  folds, 
taking  care  that  they  are  as  even  as 

possible.  Then  make  the  folds  lie  closely  together,  by  tacking 
them  with  a  strong  thread,  and  in  long  stitches.  You  then  take 
silk  of  the  right  color ;  stitch  together  at  equal  and  proper  dis- 
tances the  two  first  folds,  and  proceed,  with  each  succeeding  two, 
in  the  same  manner,  only  taking  the  stitches  in  the  intermediate 
spaces.  Thus  the  stitches  of  each  alternate  row  will  correspond 
together.  Draw  out  the  thread,  when  the  work  is  finished,  and 
on  pulling  it  open,  it  will  form  diamonds  on  the  right  side.  This 
work  is  proper  for  the  inside  of  work-boxes,  and  is  sometimes 
employed  to  ornament  the  tops  of  beds.  It  looks  well,  if  care- 
fully executed. 

A  perfect  acquaintance  with  these  various  stitches,  will  enable 
the  practical  needlewoman  to  pursue  her  occupation  with  ease  and 
pleasure. 


CHAPTER   III. 
PLAIN    NEEDLEWORK. 

INSTRUCTIONS    IN   THE    PREPARATION   OF    BODY    LINEN. 

In  order  to  secure  economy  of  lime,  labor,  and  expense,  and 
also  to  do  everything  neatly  and  in  order,  the  lady  who  is  intend- 
ing to  engage  in  the  domestic  employment  of  preparing  linen  ne- 
cessary for  personal  and  family  use,  should  be  careful  to  have  all 
her  materials  ready,  and  disposed  in  the  most  systematic  manner 
possible,  before  commencing  work.  The  materials  employed  in 
the  construction  of  articles,  which  come  under  the  denomination  of 
plain  needlework,  are  so  various,  that  a  mere  list  of  them  would 
occupy  more  than  half  our  space ;  and  they  are  so  well  known, 
that  no  necessity  exists  for  naming  them  in  detail.  We  shall 
therefore  proceed,  at  once,  to  give  plain  directions,  by  which  any 
lady  may  soon  become  expert  in  this  necessary  department  of 
household  uses,  merely  observing,  that  a  neat  work-box,  well  sup- 
plied with  all  the  implements  required — including  knife,  scissors 
(of  at  least  three  sizes,)  needles  and  pins  in  sufficient  variety,  bod- 
kins, thimbles,  thread  and  cotton,  bobbins,  marking  silks,  black 
lead  pencils,  india  rubber,  &c.,  should  be  provided,  and  be  furnished 
with  a  lock  and  key,  to  prevent  the  contents  being  thrown  into 
confusion  by  children,  servants,  or  unauthorized  intruders. 

The  lady  being  thus  provided,  and  having  her  materials,  imple- 


38  THE  LADIES'  WOHK-TABLE  BOOK. 

ments,  &c.,  placed  in  order  upon  her  work-table,  (to  the  edge  of 
which  it  is  an  advantage  to  have  a  pincushion  affixed,  by  means  of 
a  screw,)  may  commence  her  work,  and  proceed  with  pleasure  to 
herself,  and  without  annoyance  to  any  visiter,  who  may  favor 
her  with  a  call  We  would  recommend,  wherever  practicable, 
that  the  work-table  should  be  made  of  cedar,  and  that  the  win- 
dows of  the  working  parlor  should  open  into  a  garden,  well  sup- 
plied with  odoriferous  flowers  and  plants,  the  perfume  of  which 
will  materially  cheer  the  spirits  of  those  especially  whose  cir- 
cumstances compel  them  to  devote  the  greatest  portion  of  their 
time  to  sedentary  occupations.  If  these  advantages  cannot  be  ob- 
tained, at  least  the  room  should  be  well  ventilated,  and  furnished 
with  a  few  cheerful  plants,  and  a  well  filled  scent-jar.  The  be- 
neficent Creator  intended  all  His  children,  in  whatever  station  of 
life  they  might  be  placed,  to  share  in  the  common  bounties  of  His 
providence ;  and  when  she,  who  not  for  pleasure,  but  to  obtain 
the  means  of  subsistence,  is  compelled  to  seclude  herself,  for  days 
or  weeks  together,  from  the  cheering  influence  of  exercise  in  the 
open  air,  it  becomes  both  her  duty,  and  that  of  those  for  whom 
she  labors,  to  secure  as  much  of  these  advantages,  or  of  the  best 
substitutes  for  them,  as  the  circumstances  of  the  case  will  admit. 

We  now  proceed  to  lay  down  what  we  hope  will  be  found 
clear  though  concise  rules,  for  the  preparation  of  various  articles 
of  dress  and  attire. 

APRONS. — These  are  made  of  a  variety  of  materials,  and  are  ap- 
plied to  various  uses.  The  aprons  used  for  common  purposes,  are 
made  of  white,  blue,  brown,  checked,  and  sometimes  of  black  linen  ; 
nankeen,  stuff,  and  print,  are  also  employed.  The  width  is  gen- 
erally one  breadth  of  the  material,  and  the  length  is  regulated  by 
the  height  of  the  wearer.  Dress  aprons  are,  of  course,  made  of 


THE  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  39 

finer  materials — cambric,  muslin,  silk,  satin,  lace,  clear  and  other 
kinds  of  muslin,  &c.,  and  are  generally  two  breadths  in  width,  one 
of  which  is  cut  in  two,  so  as  to  throw  a  seam  on  each  side,  and 
leave  an  entire  breadth  for  the  middle.  Aprons  of  all  kinds  are 
straight,  and  either  plaited  or  gathered  on  to  the  band  or  stock  at 
the  top.  Those  with  only  one  breadth,  are  hemmed  at  the  bot- 
tom with  a  broad  hem  ;  those  with  two  breadths,  must  be  hemmed 
at  the  sides  likewise.  The  band  should  be  from  half  a  nail  to  a 
nail  broad ;  its  length  is  to  be  determined  by  the  waist  of  the 
wearer.  It  should  be  fastened  at  the  back,  with  hooks  and  eye- 
let holes.  To  some  aprons,  pockets  are  attached,  which  are  either 
sewed  on  in  front,  or  at  the  back,  and  a  slit  made  in  the  apron  to 
correspond  with  them.  The  slit,  or  opening  of  the  pocket  is  to  be 
hemmed  neatly,  or  braided,  as  may  be  most  desirable.  In  some 
kinds  of  aprons,  bibs  are  introduced,  which  are  useful  to  cover 
the  upper  part  of  the  dress.  Their  size  must  be  determined  by 
the  taste  of  the  person  who  is  to  wear  them. 

DRESS  APRONS. — Take  two  breadths  of  any  material  you 
choose,  dividing  one  of  them  in  the  middle.  Hem  all  round,  with 
a  broad  hem,  three-fourths  of  a  nail  deep.  The  band  is  to  be  one 
and  a-half  nails  deep  in  the  middle,  into  which  a  piece  of  whale- 
bone is  to  be  inserted,  on  each  side  of  which  work  a  row  or  two  in 
chain  stitch.  The  band  is  scolloped  out  from  the  centre  on  its 
lower  side,  five  and  a-half  nails,  leaving  the  extremities  of  the  band 
one  nail  broad.  To  the  scolloped  portion,  the  apron  is  to  be  fulled 
on,  so  as  to  sit  as  neat  as  possible  ;  leaving  the  space  beneath  the 
whalebone  plain.  Confine  the  folds,  by  working  two  rows  of 
chain  stitch,  just  below  the  curved  lines  of  the  band,  leaving  half 
an  inch  between  each  row.  The  lower  edge  of  the  band  is  orna- 
mented with  a  small  piping,  but  is  left  plain  at  the  top. 


40  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

VANDYKE  APRON. — This  may  be  made  either  of  silk  or  muslin. 
The  edge  of  the  apron  is  to  be  turned  down,  once  all  round,  an 
the  right  side,  to  the  depth  of  three-quarters  of  a  nail ;  and  the 
Vandykes  are  formed  by  running  from  the  edge  of  the  apron  to  near 
the  rough  edge  of  the  material,  which  is  afterward  to  be  turned 
in.  When  the  Vandykes  are  completed,  they  are  to  be  turned 
inside  out,  and  made  as  smooth  as  possible.  A  braid,  or  a  row 
of  tent  stitch,  on  the  right  side,  over  the  stitches,  is  a  pretty  finish. 
In  setting  on  the  band,  the  plaits  must  be  placed  opposite  each 
other,  so  as  to  meet  in  the  middle.  You  may  line  the  band  with 
buckram,  or  stiff  muslin,  and  ornament  it  with  piping  if  you  please. 

APRON  FOR  A  YOUNG  PERSON. — Clear  muslin  is  the  best  ma- 
terial. Hem  round  with  a  hem,  three-fourths  of  a  nail  deep ;  lay 
all  round,  within  the  hem,  a  shawl  bordering,  not  quite  so  broad 
as  the  hem.  Of  course,  the  latter  must  be  taken  off  before  wash- 
ing. 

A  MORNING  APRON. — This  may  be  made  like  the  last,  but  in- 
stead of  the  shawl  bordering,  surround  the  outer  edge  of  the  hem 
by  a  deep  crimped  frill,  a  nail  in  breadth.  The  material  most  in 
use,  is  jacconet  or  cambric  muslin :  the  frill,  of  lawn  or  cambric, 
which  you  please. 

GIRL'S  APRON. — Use  any  material  that  is  deemed  advisable. 
The  bib  is  to  be  made  to  fit  the  wearer,  in  front,  between  the 
shoulders,  and  sloping  to  the  waist.  The  apron  is  to  be  gathered, 
or  plaited  to  the  band ;  and  the  shoulder  straps  may  be  of  the  same 
material,  or  of  ribbon.  The  bib,  either  plain  or  ornamented,  with 
tucks  or  folds,  as  may  be  deemed  most  suitable. 

BATHING  GOWN. — The  materials  employed  are  various,  flan- 
nels, stuff,  or  calamanca,  are  the  most  preferable,  giving  free  in- 
gress to  the  water.  The  length  must  be  determined  by  the  height 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  41 

of  the  wearer,  and  the  width  at  the  bottom  should  be  about  fif- 
teen nails.  It  should  be  folded  as  you  would  a  pinafore,  and  to  be 
sloped  three  and  three-quarters  nails  for  the  shoulder.  The  slits 
for  the  arm-holes  must  be  three  nails  and  three-quarters  long,  and 
the  sleeves  are  to  be  set  in  plain :  the  length  of  the  latter  is  not 
material.  It  is  useful  to  have  a  slit  of  three  inches,  in  front  of 
each.  The  gown  is  to  have  a  broad  hem  at  the  bottom,  and  to 
be  gathered  into  a  band  at  the  top,  which  is  to  be  drawn  tight 
with  strings ;  the  sleeves  are  to  be  hemmed  and  sewn  round  the 
arm  or  wrist,  in  a  similar  manner. 

BUSTLES. — These  are  worn,  to  make  the  waist  of  the  gown  sit 
neat  upon  the  person.  They  are  made  the  width  of  the  material, 
and  eight  nails  deep.  The  piece  is  to  be  so  doubled  as  to  make 
two  flounces ;  one  four  nails  and  a  half  and  the  other  three  and  a- 
half  deep.  A  case,  to  admit  of  tapes,  is  to  be  made  one  nail  from 
the  top,  and  the  bottom  of  each  flounce  is  to  have  a  thick  cord 
hemmed  into  it.  When  worn,  the  article  is  turned  inside  out.  The 
materials  are  strong  jean,  or  calico. 

CAPS. — These  are  made  of  a  great  variety  of  patterns,  and  the 
materials  are  as  various  as  the  purposes  to  which  the  article  is  ap- 
plied. Muslins  of  various  kinds,  lawn,  net,  lace,  and  colico,  ore 
all  in  request ;  and  the  borders  are  extremely  various.  Muslin, 
net,  or  lace,  being  those  most  in  common  use.  The  shapes  are  so 
multifarious,  as  to  preclude  us  from  giving  any  specific  directions. 
Every  lady  must  choose  her  own  pattern,  as  best  suits  the  purpose 
she  has  in  view.  The  patterns  should  be  cut  in  paper,  and  con- 
siderable care  is  requisite,  in  cutting  out,  not  to  waste  the  material. 
A  little  careful  practice  will  soon  make  this  department  familiar  to 
the  expert  votaress  of  the  needle. 

CHILD'S  COLLAR. — This  is  made  of  double  Irish  linen,  and  is 


42  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

stitched  round  and  made  to  fall  over  the  dress.  Frills  are  generally 
attached  to  them,  and  give  them  a  pretty  finish.  They  are  proper 
for  children,  of  eight  or  nine  years  of  age. 

CRAVATS. — These  are  of  fine  muslin,  and  are  made  in  the  shape 
of  a  half  handkerchief.  They  are  hemmed  with  a  narrow  hem, 
and  should  be  cut  from  muslin,  eighteen  nails  square. 

CLOCKS. — These  useful  and  necessary  articles  of  dress  are  gen- 
erally made  up  by  a  dress-maker  ;  it  is  unnecessary  therefore  to 
give  particular  directions  concerning  them.  The  materials  are  silks 
and  stuffs,  of  almost  every  variety,  including  satin,  merino  cloth, 
real  and  imitation  shawling  plaids,  and  Orleans.  The  latter  is  now 
very  generally  used.  Travelling  cloaks  are  made  of  a  stronger 
material,  and  are  trimmed  in  a  much  plainer  style  than  those  used 
in  walking  dresses.  Satin  cloaks  look  well  with  velvet  collars, 
and  are  also  frequently,  trimmed  with  the  same  material.  Merino, 
and  also  silk  cloaks,  are  often  trimmed  with  fur,  or  velvet, and  lined 
with  the  same.  Sometimes  they  are  made  perfectly  plain.  The 
lining  of  a  silk  or  satin  cloak,  should  be  of  the  same  color,  or  else 
a  well-chosen  contrast  ;  and  care  should  be  taken,  that  the  color 
should  be  one  that  is  not  liable  to  fade,  or  to  receive  damage.  An 
attention  to  these  general  remarks,  will  be  found  of  much  advantage 
to  the  lady  who,  in  making  her  purchase  is  desirous  of  combining 
elegance  of  appearance  with  durability  of  wear,  and  economy  of 
price. 

FRILLS. — These  are  used  as  ornaments,  or  a  finish  to  various 
articles  of  dress.  The  materials  are  cambric  muslin,  lace,  net,  &c., 
and  the  manner  in  which  they  are  made  is  various.  Sometimes 
they  are  set  on  quite  plain,  that  is,  hemmed  round  and  plaited  up 
into  neat  folds,  to  the  width  required.  At  other  times,  frills  are 
fitted  to  a  band,  and  the  edge  that  is  to  be  hemmed,  is  stiffened  by 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  43 

rolling  it  over  a  bobbin  ;  it  is  put  on  as  an  ornament  to  a  gown, 
and  is  tied  with  strings  at  the  end.  Crimped  frills  are  worn  by 
young  children,  and  look  extremely  neat.  They  are  made  of  lawn 
or  cambric,  and  sewed  on  to  a  band.  The  other  edge  is  hemmed, 
and  the  frill  is  double  the  size  round  the  neck.  The  band  should 
be  half  a  nail  in  depth,  and  the  frill  is  to  be  crimped  as  evenly  as 
possible. 

GENTLEMEN'S  BELTS. — These  are  worn  by  persons  who  have 
much  and  violent  exercise,  and  are  extremely  useful.  They  are 
made  of  strong  jean  or  other  material,  and  sometimes  of  leather, 
and  may  either  be  made  straight,  or  a  little  slant,  or  peaked.  Run- 
ners of  cotton  are  inserted,  to  make  them  more  strong,  and  they 
must  be  furnished  with  long  straps  of  webbing  at  the  ends,  sewed 
on  with  leather  over  them.  The  straps  are  about  three  inches  in 
depth. 

GENTLEMEN'S  COLLARS. — These  are  very  generally  worn,  and 
are  shaped  in  a  variety  of  ways.  They  are  made  double,  and  orna- 
mented with  a  single  or  double  row  of  back  stitch.  They  are  made 
to  button  round  the  neck,  or  are  set  on  to  a  band  for  that  purpose. 
It  is  best  to  cut  the  pattern  in  paper,  and  when  a  good  fit  is  ob- 
tained, cut  the  cloth  by  the  paper  model. 

GENTLEMEN'S  FRONTS. — The  material  is  fine  lawn  or  cambric. 
Sometimes  the  sides  are  composed  of  the  former,  and  the  middle  of 
the  latter.  A  false  hem  is  made  down  the  middle,  furnished  with 
buttons,  as  if  to  open ;  the  neck  is  hollowed  to  the  depth  of  a  nail, 
and  is  plaited  or  gathered  into  a  stock  or  band.  In  order  that  it 
may  sit  neat  upon  the  bosom,  two  neck  gussets  are  introduced. 

LADIES'  DRAWERS. — Choose  any  proper  material,  and  form  the 
article  by  making  two  legs,  set  on  to  a  band  to  fasten  round  the 
waist.  Set  on  a  plain  or  worked  frill  at  the  bottom.  When  set- 


44  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

ting  the  legs  on  to  the  band,  place  them  so  as  to  overlap  each  other. 
The  band  is  eleven  nails  long,  and  three  deep. 

LADIES'  FLANNEL  WAISTCOAT. — This  is,  in  many  cases,  an  in- 
dispensable article  of  female  attire.  For  an  ordinary  size,  you 
must  take  a  piece  of  flannel  twelve  nails  wide,  and  seven  deep,  fold- 
ing it  exactly  in  the  middle.  At  two  nails  from  the  front,  which  is 
doubled,  the  arm  holes  must  be  cut,  leaving  two  nails  for  half  of  the 
back.  The  front  is  to  be  slightly  hollowed.  At  the  bottom,  cut 
a  slit  of  three  nails,  immediately  under  the  arm  holes ;  insert  a  gore 
three  nails  broad,  and  the  same  in  length,  and  terminating  in  a  point. 
Bosom-gores  are  also  to  be  introduced  of  a  similar  shape,  and  just 
half  the  size.  They  are  to  be  put  in  just  one  nail  from  the  shoulder- 
strap.  In  making  the  waistcoat,  it  is  to  be  herring-boned  all  round, 
as  are  also  all  the  gores  and  slits.  A  broad  tape,  one  nail  in  width, 
is  laid  down  each  side  of  the  front,  in  which  the  button  holes  are 
made,  and  buttons  set  on;  the  shoulder-straps  are  of  tape,  and  the 
waistcoat  fastens  in  front 

A.DIES'  NIGHT  JACKETS. — The  materials  are  various,  including 
lawn,  linen,  and  calico.  The  jackets  are  made  of  two  breadths, 
and  as  it  is  desirable  not  to  have  a  seam  in  the  shoulder,  the  two 
breadths  should  be  cut  in  one  length,  and  carefully  doubled  in  the 
middle.  The  neck  is  to  be  slit  open,  leaving  three  nails  on  each 
side  for  the  shoulders ;  and  a  slit  is  also  to  be  made  in  front,  so  as 
to  allow  the  garment  to  pass  freely  over  the  head  of  the  wearer ; 
the  sides  are  then  to  be  seamed  up,  leaving  proper  slits  for  the 
arm  holes ;  and  the  neck  and  bosom  are  to  be  hemmed  as  neatly 
as  possible.  The  sleeves  are  to  be  made  the  required  length,  and 
gathered  into  a  band  at  the  wrist,  after  being  felled  into  the  arm 
holes  mentioned  above.  A  neat  frill  round  the  neck,  bosom,  and 
wrist?,  finishes  the  whole. 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  45 

NIGHT  GOWNS. — These  must  be  made  of  a  size  suitable  for  the 
wearer.  The  following  are  directions  for  three  different  sizes. 
The  length  of  the  gown  on  the  skirts  is  one  yard  and  a  half  for 
the  first  size,  one  yard  and  six  nails  for  the  second,  and  one  yard 
and  three  nails  for  the  third ;  the  width  of  the  material  is  eighteen, 
sixteen,  and  fourteen  nails,  respectively ;  and  the  garment  is  to 
have  one  yard  and  a  half  breadth  in  width.  They  are  to  he  crossed 
so  as  to  be  at  the  bottom  twenty-one,  eighteen,  and  sixteen,  nails: 
and  at  the  top,  fifteen,  fourteen,  and  twelve  nails,  as  the  sizes  may 
require.  The  length  of  the  sleeves  is  nine,  eight,  and  seven  nails, 
and  the  width  half  a  breadth ;  they  are  to  be  furnished  with  gus- 
sets, three,  two,  and  two  nails  square,  and  with  wristbands  of  the 
proper  width,  and  of  any  depth  that  is  deemed  desirable. 

A  binder  of  one  nail  and  a  half  is  put  down  the  selvage  of  each 
sleeve,  which  strengthens  it  much.  The  gown  is  furnished  with 
a  collar  about  three  nails  deep,  and  of  the  length  required  by  the 
wearer ;  and,  in  order  that  it  may  fit  properly,  neck  gussets  of 
two,  one,  and  one  nail  square,  are  to  be  introduced.  A  slit  of 
about  six  nails  is  made  in  front,  which  is  hemmed  round,  and  the 
space  left  for  the  shoulders  is  three,  two  and  a-half  and  two  nails, 
respectively.  The  whole  is  finished  with  a  neat  frill  round  the 
collar  and  wristbands.  If  economy  is  an  object,  cut  three  gowns 
together.  This  will  prevent  much  waste  of  material ;  an  object, 
by  every  head  of  a  family,  to  be  constantly  kept  in  view. 

NECK  AND  POCKET  HANDKERCHIEFS. — These  are  made  of  a 
great  variety  of  materials,  as  silk,  muslin,  cambric,  lawn,  and  net. 
The  neck  handkerchiefs  are  generally  a  half  square,  and  are  hem- 
med all  round.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  turn  up  the  extreme  corners, 
as  it  makes  it  more  strong  and  durable.  A  tape  is  set  on,  which 
comes  'round  the  waist,  and  ties  in  front.  Sometimes  a  broad 


46  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

muslin  hem  is  put  on  the  two  straight  sides,  which  looks  extremely 
well.  Some  ladies  work  a  border  to  their  neck  handkerchief, 
which  gives  to  those  made  of  net  the  appearance  of  lace.  Pocket 
handkerchiefs  are  neatly  hemmed,  and  sometimes  have  a  worked 
border.  Those  used  by  gentlemen  are  of  a  larger  size  than  those 
of  ladies. 

PETTICOATS  (FLANNEL). — These  are  not  only  useful,  but  indis- 
pensable articles  of  dress.  Fine  flannel  is  the  best,  as  it  is  most 
durable,  and  keeps  its  color  best  in  washing.  The  length  of  the 
petticoat  is  regulated  by  the  height  of  the  person  for  whom  it  is 
intended ;  and  the  width  ranges  from  three  breadths  to  one  and 
a-half.  The  bottom  is  hemmed  with  a  broad  hem  ;  and  the  top 
is  gathered,  and  set  on  to  a  strong  band  of  calico,  or  jean,  leaving 
the  front  nearly  plain.  Sometimes  a  button  hole  is  made,  about 
two  nails  from  the  ends  of  the  band,  to  which  strings  of  tape  are 
attached ;  these  are  passed  through  the  opposite  holes,  and  the 
parts  thus  brought  over  each  other  form  a  kind  of  bustle,  which 
makes  the  garment  sit  more  neatly  to  the  figure.  A  slit  of  about 
four  nails  is  left  on  the  back  which  is  hemmed  round,  or  bound 
with  a  strong  binding. 

PETTICOATS  are  worn  under  the  dress  for  the  sake  of  warmth, 
and  also  to  make  the  gown  hang  more  gracefully  upon  the  per- 
Bon.  They  should  have  three  or  three  and  a-half  breadths  of  the 
material  in  the  width,  and  the  bottom  is  made  with  a  broad  hem 
three  nails  deep,  or  with  tucks  or  worked  muslin.  The  latter  is 
extremely  neat.  They  are  to  be  set  on  to  a  strong  band,  or  stock, 
and  are  to  have  a  slit  left  at  the  back  about  four  nails  in  length. 
The  skirt  may  be  gathered  full  all  round,  or  only  at  the  back  and 
front,  leaving  the  sides  plain ;  sometimes  all  the  fulness  is  thrown 
to  the  back.  Having  shoulder-straps  to  keep  up  the  petticoat,  is 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  47 

a  great  advantage  ;  but  they  are  unnecessary  if  a  waist,  or  body 
with  or  without  sleeves,  be  set  on  the  band.  In  this  case  the  body 
should  be  made  to  fit  as  tight  to  the  person  as  possible.  The  band 
is  generally  about  one  nail  in  breadth.  The  materials  proper  for 
petticoats  are  dimity,  calico,  cambric,  jacconet  muslin,  calamanca, 
stuff,  &c.  What  are  called  middle,  or  under  petticoats,  are  made 
in  the  same  manner.  Those  ladies  who  pursue  the  laudable  prac- 
tice of  nursing  their  own  infants,  and  who  wear  petticoats  with 
bodies  to  them,  have  them  open  in  front. 

PINAFORE. — This  is  a  useful  article  of  dress,  especially  in  large 
families.  Holland  is  the  best  material.  For  an  open  one,  one 
breadth  is  sufficient.  Double  the  pinafore  into  four,  and  cut  the 
arm  holes  to  the  required  depth  in  the  two  side  folds,  so  that  half 
will  form  the  front.  The  neck  is  to  be  hollowed  out  about  a 
quarter  of  a  nail  in  the  middle,  and  the  pinafore  is  to  be  set  on  to 
the  neck  band,  which  fastens  by  a  button  behind.  Sleeve  lappets 
are  attached  to  the  arm  holes,  being  gathered  near  the  edge,  and  set 
on  before  the  arm  hole  is  hemmed,  so  that  when  the  edge  is  turned 
down  no  stitches  will  appear.  The  lappet  is  a  second  time  to  be 
gathered  at  the  edge,  and  sewed  down  as  fast  as  possible.  Then 
hem  the  other  edge,  and  conceal  the  stitches  with  silk  braid  that 
will  wash.  A  small  gusset  put  into  the  bottom  of  the  slits  is  an 
advantage,  as  it  makes  it  stronger.  They  are  to  be  fastened  round 
the  waist  with  a  band,  or  with  a  strap  and  buckle.  The  latter  is 
most  to  be  preferred.  For  a  close  pinafore,  two  breadths  of  Hol- 
land, or  other  material,  will  be  required.  It  is  seamed  up  at  the 
sides,  leaving  slits  for  the  arm  holes,  and  has  a  collar  and  sleeves; 
as  also  a  band  to  go  round  the  middle  of  the  wearer.  Neck  gus- 
sets may  be  introduced,  but  the  much  neater  way  is,  to  double  the 
pinafore  into  four,  and  let  in  apiece  at  each  shoulder,  about  a  nail 


48  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

wide,  and  two  nails  in  length,  gathering  each  quarter  from  the  arm 
holes,  into  the  pieces  so  let  in,  and  felling  similar  pieces  on  the  in- 
side of  the  shoulder.  The  two  middle  quarters  are  to  be  gathered 
into  half  the  collar,  and  the  back  in  the  same  manner.  The 
sleeves  are  made  with  gussets  like  a  shirt,  and  are  gathered  into 
the  arm  holes.  A  slit  is  made  at  the  hands,  and  the  bottom  is 
gathered  into  a  wristband  about  an  inch  in  breadth. 

POCKETS. — These  are  made  of  any  kind  of  material  you  please. 
You  take  a  piece  of  double,  and  cut  it  to  the  shape  required. 
Stitch  the  two  pieces  neatly  round,  a  little  distance  from  the  edge. 
Then  turn  it,  and  let  the  seam  be  well  flattened,  and  back  stitch 
with  white  silk  a  quarter  of  an  inch  from  the  edge ;  cut  a  slit  down 
about  four  nails,  which  is  to  be  either  hemmed,  or  have  a  tape 
laid  round  it  on  the  inside.  Set  on  the  strings,  and  the  pocket  is 
complete.  Some  ladies  have  pockets  attached  to  the  petticoat. 
In  that  case,  it  is  only  a  square  of  calico,  about  ten  nails  long,  and 
eight  broad,  set  on  to  the  inside  of  the  petticoat,  as  plain  as  pos- 
sible. 

A  RIBBON  SCARF. — This  is  made  of  broad  satin  ribbon,  and  must 
not  be  less  than  two  nails  and  a  half  wide :  its  length  is  two  yards 
and  three  quarters.  The  ribbon  is  to  be  doubled  on  the  wrong, 
side,  and  run  in  a  slanting  direction  so  as  to  cause  it  to  fall  grace- 
fully on  the  neck.  The  ends  are  to  be  embroidered  and  ornamented 
with  braid,  or  left  plain,  as  may  suit  the  fancy.  The  scarf  is  to 
be  surrounded  by  an  edging  of  swan's  down.  This  is  an  elegant 
article  of  female  attire. 

PLAIN  SCARF — This  is  generally  made  of  net,  the  whole  breadth, 
and  two  yards  and  a  half  long.  It  is  hemmed  all  round  with  a 
broad  hem  so  as  to  admit  a  ribbon  to  be  run  in,  which  gives  it  a 
neat  and  finished  appearance. 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  4J) 

AN  INDIAN  SCARF. — This  is  an  elegant  article  of  dress  and  can 
be  easily  made.  The  material  is  a  rich  Cashmere,  and  three  colors 
are  required  :  that  is,  black,  scarlet,  and  a  mazarine  blue.  You 
must  have  the  scarf  four  nails  and  a  half  in  width,  and  one  yard 
and  six  nails  in  length :  this  must  be  black.  Then  you  must  have 
of  the  other  two  colors,  pieces  seven  nails  long,  and  the  same  width 
as  the  black,  and  you  are,  after  finding  the  exact  middle  of  the  black 
stripe,  to  slope  off  one  nail  and  a  half  toward  each  side,  and  then 
slope  one  end  of  the  blue  and  of  the  scarlet  piece,  so  as  to  make 
them  accord  precisely  with  the  ends  of  the  black  previously  pre- 
pared. You  are  to  cut  one  nail  and  a  half  from  the  middle  to  the 
ends.  You  are  then  to  split  the  blue  and  the  scarlet  stripes  down 
the  middle,  and  join  half  of  the  one  to  the  half  of  the  other,  as 
accurately,  as  possible.  The  pieces  thus  joined  together  are  to  be 
sewed  to  the  black  stripe,  and  the  utmost  care  must  be  taken  to 
make  the  points  unite  properly.  You  are  to  sew  the  pieces  fast 
together,  and  herring-bone  them  all  round  on  the  right  side.  You 
finish  by  laying  a  neat  silk  gimp  all  round  and  over  all  the  join- 
ings. It  should  be  of  a  clear,  bright  color.  The  ends  are  to  be 
fringed  with  scarlet  and  blue,  to  correspond  with  the  two  half 
stripes.  This  is  suitable  for  a  walking  dress,  or  an  evening  party. 

A  DRESS  SHAWL. — Take  a  half  square  of  one  yard  and  twelve 
nails  of  satin  velvet  or  plush,  which  you  please,  and  line  it  with 
sarcenet  either  white,  or  colored ;  trim  the  two  straight  edges  with 
a  hem  of  either  silk  or  satin,  from  one  to  one  nail  and  a  half  in 
breadth,  and  cut  crossway.  Or  you  may  trim  it  with  fur,  lace,  or 
fringe. 

CASHMERE  SHAWL. — You  will  require  for  the  centre  a  piece  of 
colored  Cashmere,  one  yard  six  nails  square,  which  is  to  be  hem- 
med round  with  a  narrow  hem.  You  must  then  take  four  stripes 


50  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

all  of  Cashmere,  or  of  a  shawl  bordering  to  harmonize  or  contrast 
well  with  the  centre,  which  must  be  hemmed  on  both  sides,  and 
then  sewed  on, so  as  that  the  stitches  may  appear  as  little  as  possi- 
ble. The  border  should  be  three  nails  broad,  and  of  course  joined 
point  to  point  at  the  corners  ;  and  it  must  be  so  set  on  as  that  the 
two  corners  shall  fall  properly  over  each  other.  The  shawl  is 
finished  by  a  fringe  set  on  all  round,  and  sometimes  by  a  colored 
gimp  laid  on  over  the  joinings. 

A  LADY'S  WALKING  SHAWX. — This  may  be  made  of  cloth,  me- 
rino, or  silk ;  and  either  a  Avhole,  or  half  square,  at  pleasure.  The 
dimensions  are  one  yard  and  twelve  nails,  and  the  lining  is  of  silk. 
In  order  that  when  the  shawl  is  doubled  the  hems  of  both  folds 
may  appear  at  the  same  time,  care  must  be  taken,  after  laying  on 
the  border  on  two  successive  sides,  to  turn  the  shawl,  and  then  lay 
on  the  remainder  of  the  border.  The  trimmings  for  these  kind  of 
shawls  are  of  great  variety. 

A  TRAVELLING  SHAWL. — This  is  easily  made,  and  is  very  warm 
and  convenient.  Take  a  square  of  wadding,  and  double  it  corner- 
ways  ;  cover  it  with  muslin,  or  silk,  and  trim  it  as  you  please. 

MOURNING  SHAWLS. — These  may  be  made  either  of  half  a 
square  of  black  silk,  entirely  covered  with  crape,  which  is  proper 
for  deep  mourning,  or  you  may  take  half  a  square  of  rich  and 
rather  dull  black  silk,  and  border  it  with  a  hem  of  crape,  two  nails 
deep,  laid  on  upon  the  two  straight  sides  of  the  shawl. 

SHIFTS. — These  are  generally  made  of  fine  Irish,  or  calico. 
They  are  made  either  with  gores,  or  crossed.  The  latter  is  the 
neatest  method.  Two  breadths  are  sufficient  for  a  full  sized  shift, 
and  gores  are  cut  off  a  given  width  at  the  bottom,  and  extending  to 
a  point,  in  order  to  widen  the  garment.  In  crossing  a  shift,  you 
first  sew  the  long  seams ;  then  you  double  it  in  a  slanting  direction, 


:. .'    /" 

LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  51 

BO  as  to  mark  off  at  the  top  and  bottom  ten  nails  at  opposite  cor- 
ners ;  this  done,  you  join  the  narrow  ends  together,  and  sew 
the  cross  seams,  leaving  a  sufficient  slit  for  the  aim  holes.  There 
are  various  methods  of  cutting  the  back  and  bosom.  Some  cut 
out  a  scollop  both  before  and  behind ;  but  in  this  case,  the  back  is 
hollowed  out  one  third  less  than  the  front."  Some  ladies  hollow 
out  the  back,  but  form  the  bosom  with  a  flap,  which  may  be  cut 
either  straight,  or  in  a  slanting  direction  from  the  shoulders.  An- 
other meth  d  of  forming  the  bosom  is  by  cutting  the  shoulder- 
straps  separate  from  the  shift,  and  making  the  top  quite  straight ; 
bosom  gores  are  then  let  in,  in  front  j  the  top  is  hemmed  both  be- 
fore and  behind,  and  a  frill  gives  a  neat  finish  to  the  whole.  The 
sleeves  may  be  either  set  in  plain  or  full,  as  suits  the  taste  of  the 
wearer.  Sometimes  the  sleeve  and  gusset  are  all  in  one  piece ;  at 
other  times  they  are  separate.  In  all  cases,  great  care  should  be 
taken  in  cutting  out,  rfot  to  waste  the  material.  For  this  purpose 
it  is  always  advisable  to  cut  out  several  at  one  time.  Shifts  for 
young  children  of  from  five  to  ten  years  of  age,  are  generally  made 
with  flaps  both  before  and  behind.  This  is  decidedly  the  neatest 
shape  for  them.  The  bottom,  in  all  cases,  should  be  hemmed  with 
a  broad  hem. 

SHIRTS. — These  are  generally  made  of  linen;  but  calico  is  also 
made  use  of.  The  degree  of  fineness  must  be  determined  by  the 
occupation  and  station  of  the  wearer.  A  long  piece  of  linen  will, 
if  cut  with  care,  make  several  shirts  of  an  ordinary  man's  size. 
In  cutting,  you  must  take  a  shirt  of  the  required  dimensions,  as  a 
pattern  ;  and,  by  it,  measure  the  length  of  several  bodies,  not  cut- 
ting any  but  the  last.  Then  cut  off  the  other  bodies ;  and  from 
the  remainder,  cut  off  the  sleeves,  binders,  gussets,  &c.,  measuring 
by  the  pattern.  Bosom-pieces,  falls,  collars,  &c.,  must  be  fitted, 


52  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

and  cut  by  a  paper  or  other  pattern,  which  suits  the  person  for 
whom  the  articles  are  intended. 

In  making  up,  the  bodies  should  be  doubled,  so  as  to  leave  the 
front  flap  one  nail  shorter  than  that  behind.  Then,  marking  off 
the  spaces  for  the  length  of  the  flaps  and  arm  holes,  sew  up  the 
seams.  The  bosom-siit  is  five  nails,  and  three  nails  is  the  space 
left  for  the  shoulders.  The  space  for  the  neck  Avill  be  nine  nails. 
One  breadth  of  the  cloth  makes  the  sleeves,  and  the  length  is  from 
nine  to  ten  nails.  The  collar,  and  the  wristbands,  are  made  to  fit 
the  neck  and  wrists,  and  the  breadths  are  so  various,  that  no  gen- 
eral rule  can  be  given.  You  make  the  binders,  or  linings,  about 
twelve  nails  in  length,  and  three  in  breadth ;  and  the  sleeve  gus- 
sets are  three ^  the  neck  gusset,  two;  the  flap  gussets,  one;  and 
the  bosom  gusset,  half  a  nail  square.  The  work,  or  stitches,  in- 
troduced into  the  collar,  wristbands,  &c.,  are  to  be  regulated  ac- 
cording to  the  taste  of  the  niaker,  or  the  wearer. 

Gentlemen's  night  shirts  are  made  in  a  similar  manner,  only 
they  are  larger.  The  cloth  recommended  to  be  used,  is  that  kind 
of  linen  which  is  called  shirting- width.  Where  a  smaller  size  is 
required,  a  long  strip  will  cut  off  from  the  width,  which  will  be 
found  useful  for  binders,  wristbands,  &c. 

VEILS. — These  are  made  of  net,  gauze,  or  lace,  and  are  plain 
or  worked,  as  suits  the  taste  of  the  wearer.  White  veils  are  gen- 
erally of  lace  :  mourning  ones  are  made  of  black  crape.  The  jet- 
black  is  to  be  preferred,  as  it  wears  much  better  than  the  kind 
termed  blue-black.  Colored  veils  look  well  with  a  satin  ribbon  of 
the  same  color,  about  a  nail  deep,  put  on  as  a  hem  all  round. 
For  white  ones,  a  ribbon  of  alight  color  is  preferable,  as  it  makes 
a  slight  contrast.  A  crape,  or  gauze  veil,  is  hemmed  round ;  that 
at  the  bottom  being  something  broader  than  the  rest.  All  veils 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  53 

have  strings  run  in  at  the  top,  and  riding  ones  are  frequently  fur- 
nished with  a  ribbon  at  the  bottom,  which  enables  the  wearer  to 
obtain  the  advantage  of  a  double  one,  by  tying  the  second  string 
round  her  bonnet,  where  she  is  desirous  to  screen  her  eyes  from 
the  sun  and  dust,  and  at  the  same  time  to  enjoy  the  advantage  of 
a  cool  and  refreshing  breeze.  Demi-veils  are  short  veils,  fulled 
all  round  the  bonnet,  but  most  at  the  ears,  which  makes  them  fall 
more  gracefully.  It  is  advisable  to  take  them  up  a  little  at  the 
ears,  so  as  not  to  leave  them  the  full  depth :  without  this  precau- 
tion, they  are  liable  to  appear  unsightly  and  slovenly. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

PLAIN  NEEDLEWORK. 

INSTRUCTIONS   IN   THE    PREPARATION   OF   HOrSE    Li. 

BED-ROOM  LINEN. — This  includes  quilts,  blankets,  sheets,  pil- 
low covers,  towels,  table  covers,  and  pincushion  covers. 

QUILTS. — These  are  of  various  sizes  and  qualities,  in  accordance 
with  the  purposes  to  which  they  are  to  be  applied.  They  are 
generally  made  of  the  outside  material  and  the  lining,  (wadding  or 
flannel  being  laid  between,)  and  stitched  in  diamonds  or  other  de- 
vices. The  stitches  must  pass  through  the  whole,  and  the  edges 
of  the  quilt  are  to  be  secured  by  a  binding  proper  for  the  purpose. 
They  are  best  done  in  a  frame. 

BLANKETS. — These  are  bought  ready  prepared  for  use.  It  is 
sometimes  advisable  to  work  over  the  edges  at  the  end,  which 
should  be  done  with  scarlet  worsted  in  a  very  wide  kind  of  but- 
ton-hole stitch. 

SHEETS. — These  are  made  of  fine  linen,  coarse  linen,  and  calico. 
Linen  sheets  are  in  general  to  be  preferred.  The  seam  up  the 
middle  must  be  sewed  as  neat  as  possible,  and  the  ends  may 
either  be  hemmed  or  seamed :  the  latter  is  the  preferable  method. 
Sheets,  and  all  bed-room  linen,  should  be  marked  and  numbered. 
To  add  the  date  of  the  year  is  also  an  advantage. 

PILLOW  COVERS. — These  are  made  of  fine  or  coarse  linen,  and 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  55 

sometimes  of  calico.  The  material  should  be  of  such  a  width  as 
to  correspond  with  the  length  of  the  pillow.  One  yard  and  three 
nails,  doubled  and  seamed  up,  is  the  proper  size.  One  end  is 
seamed  up,  and  the  other  hemmed  with  a  broad  hem,  and  furnished 
with  strings  or  buttons,  as  is  deemed  most  convenient.  We  think 
the  preferable  way  of  making  pillow  covers  is  to  procure  a  mate- 
rial of  a  sufficient  width  when  doubled,  to  admit  the  pillow.  The 
selvages  are  then  sewn  together,  and  the  ends  seamed  and  hem- 
med, as  before  directed.  Bolster  covers  are  made  in  nearly  the 
same  manner,  only  a  round  patch  is  let  into  one  end,  and  a  tape 
slot  is  run  into  the  other, 

TOWELS. — Towels  are  made  of  a  diaper  or  huckaback,  of  a 
quality  adapted  to  the  uses  to  which  they  are  applicable.  They 
should  be  one  yard  long,  and  about  ten  or  twelve  nails  wide.  The 
best  are  bought  single,  and  are  fringed  at  the  ends.  Others  are 
neatly  hemmed,  and  sometimes  have  a  tape  loop  attached  to  them, 
by  which  they  can  be  suspended  against  a  wall. 

DRESSING  TABLE  COVERS. — These  maybe  made  of  any  material 
that  is  proper  for  the  purpose.  Fine  diaper  generally,  but  some- 
times dimity  and  muslin  are  employed,  or  the  table  is  covered  with 
a  kind  of  Marseilles  quilting  which  is  prepared  expressly  for  the 
purpose.  Sometimes  the  covers  are  merely  hemmed  round,  but 
they  look  much  neater  if  fringed,  or  bordered  with  a  moderately 
full  frill.  Sometimes  a  worked  border  is  set  on.  All  depends 
upon  taste  and  fancy.  A  neat  and  genteel  appearance  in  accor- 
dance with  the  furniture  of  the  apartment,  should  be  especially 
regarded. 

PINCUSHION  COVERS. — A  large  pincushion,  having  two  covers 
belonging  to  it,  should  belong  to  each  toilet  table.  The  covers  are 
merely  a  bag  into  which  the  cushion  is  slipped.  They  may  be 


56  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

either  worked  or  plain,  and  should  have  small  tassels  at  each  cor- 
ner, and  a  frill  or  fringe  all  round. 

TABLE  LINEN. — This  department  of  plain  needlework  comprises 
table  cloths,  dinner  napkins,  and  large  and  small  tray  napkins. 

TABLE  CLOTHS. — These  may  be  purchased  either  singly  or  cut 
from  the  piece.  In  the  latter  case,  the  ends  should  be  hemmed  as 
neatly  as  possible. 

DINNER  NAPKINS. — These  are  of  various  materials ;  if  cut  from 
the  piece,  they  must  be  hemmed  at  the  ends  the  same  as  table 
cloths.  Large  and  small  tray  napkins,  and  knife-box  cloths,  are 
made  in  the  same  manner.  The  hemming  of  all  these  should  be 
extremely  neat.  It  is  a  pretty  and  light  employment  for  very 
young  ladies  ;  and  in  this  way  habits  of  neatness  and  usefulness 
may  be  formed,  which  will  be  found  very  beneficial  in  after  life. 

PANTRY  LINEN. — In  this  department  you  will  have  to  prepare 
pantry  cloths,  dresser  cloths,  plate  basket  cloths,  china,  glass,  and 
lamp  cloths,  and  aprons.  Pantry  knife-cloths  should  be  of  a 
strong  and  durable  material.  The  dresser  cloths,  or  covers,  look 
neat  and  are  useful.  They  are  generally  made  of  huckaback  of 
moderate  fineness  ;  but  some  ladies  prefer  making  them  of  a 

coarser  kind  of  damask.     The  plate  basket  cloth  is  a  kind  of  bag, 
*  t>3 

which  is  put  into  the  plate  basket  to  prevent  the  side  from  becom- 
ing greased  or  discolored.  They  are  made  of  linen,  which  is  well 
fitted  to  the  sides,  and  a  piece  the  size  and  shape  of  the  bottom  of 
the  basket,  is  neatly  seamed  in.  The  sides  are  made  to  hang  over 
the  basket,  and  are  drawn  round  the  rim  by  a  tape,  run  into  a  slit 
for  that  purpose.  China  cloths,  and  also  glass  cloths,  are  to  be 
made  of  fine  soft  linen,  or  diaper ;  and  the  cloths  used  in  cleaning 
lamps,  &c. ,  must  be  of  flannel,  linen,  or  silk.  All  these  articles  are 
to  be  made  in  the  same  manner,  that  is,  hemmed  neatly  at  the  ends ; 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  57 

or  if  there  be  no  selvages,  or  but  indifferent  ones,  all  round.  Noth 
ing  looks  more  slovenly  than  ragged  or  unhemmed  cloths,  which 
are  for  domestic  use.  Little  girls  of  the  humbler  classes  might  be 
employed  by  the  more  affluent,  in  making  up  those  articles  and  a 
suitable  remuneration  be  given  them.  They  would  thus  become 
more  sensible  of  the  value  of  time,  and  would  contract  habits  of 
industry,  which  would  be  of  essential  service  to  them  in  the  more 
advanced  stages  of  their  progress  through  life.  A  fair  price  paid 
for  work  done,  either  by  a  child  or  an  adult,  is  far  preferable  to 
what  is  called  charity.  It  at  once  promotes  industry,  and  encour- 
ages a  spirit  of  honest  independence,  which  is  far  removed  from 
unbecoming  pride,  as  it  is  from  mean  and  sneaking  servility.  Be- 
nevolence is  the  peculiar  glory  of  woman  ;  and  we  hope  that  all 
our  fair  readers  will  ever  bear  in  mind,  that  real  benevolence  will 
seek  to  enable  the  objects  of  its  regard  to  secure  their  due  share  of 
the  comforts  of  life,  by  the  honest  employment  of  those  gifts  and 
talents,  with  which  Providence  may  have  endowed  them. 

HOUSEMAID  AND  KITCHEN  LINEN. — The  next  subject  to  which 
the  attention  of  the  votress  of  plain  needlework  ought  to  be  di- 
rected, is  the  preparation  of  housemaid  and  kitchen  linen.  On 
these  subjects,  a  very  few  general  observations  will  be  all  that  is 
necessary.  In  the  housemaid's  department,  paint  cloths,  old  and 
soft,  and  chamber-bottle  cloths,  fine  and  soft,  are  to  be  provided. 
To  these  must  be  added,  dusters,  flannels  for  scouring,  and  chamber 
bucket  cloths,  which  last  should  be  of  a  kind  and  color  different 
from  any  thing  else.  All  these  must  be  neatly  hemmed  and  run, 
or  seamed,  if  necessary.  Nothing  in  a  well  directed  family  should 
bear  the  impress  of  neglect,  or  be  suffered  to  assume  an  untidy  ap- 
pearance. Clothes  bags  of  different  sizes,  should  also  be  pro- 
vided, of  two  yards  in  length,  and  either  one  breadth  doubled,  in 


58  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BO;:K. 

which  case  only  one  seam  will  be  required  ;  or  of  two  breadths, 
which  makes  the  bag  more  suitable  for  large  articles  of  clothing. 
These  bags  are  to  seamed  up  neatly  at  the  bottom,  and  to  hare 
strings  which  will  draw,  run  in  at  the  top.  The  best  material  is 
canvas,  or  good,  strong  unbleached  linen.  In  the  kitchen  depart- 
ment, you  will  require  both  table  and  dresser  cloths ;  which  should 
be  made  as  neat  as  possible.  Long  towels,  of  good  linen,  and  of 
a  sufficient  length,  should  be  made,  to  hang  on  rollers  ;  they  are 
generally  a  full  breadth,  so  that  hemming  the  sides  is  unnecessary. 
They  should  be  two  yards  long,  when  doubled,  and  the  ends 
should  be  secured  strongly  and  neatly  together.  If  the  selvage  is 
bad,  the  best  way  is  to  hem  it  at  once.  Kitchen  dusters,  tea  cloths, 
and  knife  cloths,  may  be  made  of  any  suitable  material ;  but  in  all 
cases  let  the  edges  be  turned  down,  and  neatly  sewed  or  overcast. 

PUDDING  CLOTH. — This  should  be  made  of  coarse  linen,  neatly 
hemmed  round,  furnished  with  strings  of  strong  tape,  and  marked. 

JELLY  BAG. — This  is  made  of  a  half  square,  doubled  so  as  to 
still  form  a  half  square.  The  top  must  be  hemmed,  and  be  fur- 
nished with  three  loops,  by  which  it  is  to  be  suspended  from  the 
frame  when  in  use. 

Some  miscellaneous  instructions,  which  could  not  otherwise  be 
introduced,  are  to  be  found  in  the  concluding  chapter. 


CHAPTER    V. 

PLAIN   NEEDLEWORK. 

MISCELLANEOUS    INSTRUCTIONS. 

BINDING. — Various  kinds  of  work  have  binding  set  on  to  them 
in  preference  to  hemming  them,  or  working  them  in  herring-bone 
stitch.  Flannel  is  generally  bound ;  sometimes  with  a  thin  tape, 
made  for  that  purpose,  and  called  "  flannel  binding."  It  is  also 
common  to  bind  flannel  with  sarcenet  ribbon.  The  binding  is  so 
put  on, as  to  show  but  little  over  the  edge  on  the  right  side,  where 
it  is  hemmed  down  neatly  ;  on  the  other  side,  it  is  run  on  with 
small  stitches. 

BRAIDING. — Silk  braid  looks  pretty,  and  is  used  for  a  variety  of 
purposes.  In  putting  it  on,  it  is  best  to  sew  it  with  silk  drawn  out 
of  the  braid,  as  it  is  a  better  match,  and  the  stitches  will  be  less 
perceived. 

MARKING. — It  is  of  essential  importance  that  cloths  should  be 
marked  and  numbered.  This  is  often  done  with  ink,  but  as  some 
persons  like  to  mark  with  silk,  we  shall  describe  the  stitch.  Two 
threads  are  to  be  taken  each  way  of  the  cloth,  and  the  needle  must 
be  passed  three  ways,  in  order  that  the  stitch  may  be  complete. 
The  first  is  aslant  from  the  person,  toward  the  right  hand  ;  the 
second  is  downward,  toward  you :  and  the  third  is  the  reverse  of 
the  first,  that  is,  aslant  from  you  toward  the  left  hand.  The  needle 


60  LADIES'  WORK  TABLE  BOOK. 

is  to  be  brought  out  at  the  corner  of  the  stitch,  nearest  to  that  you 
are  about  to  make.  The  shapes  of  the  letters  or  figures  can  be 
learnt  from  an  inspection  of  any  common  sampler. 

PIPING. — This  is  much  used  in  ornamenting  children's  and  other 
dresses.  It  is  made  by  inclosing  a  cord,  of  the  proper  thickness, 
in  a  stripe  of  silk,  cut  the  cross-way,  and  must  be  put  on  as  evenly 
as  possible. 

PLAITING. — The  plaits  must  be  as  even  as  it  is  possible  to  place 
them,  one  against  another.  In  double  plaiting  they  lie  both  ways, 
and  meet  in  the  middle 

TUCKS. — These  require  to  be  made  even.  You  should  have  the 
breadth  of  the  tuck,  and  also  the  space  between  each,  notched  on 
a  card.  They  look  the  best  run  on  with  small  and  regular  stitches. 
You  must  be  careful  to  take  a  back-stitch  constantly,  as  you 
proceed. 

MAKING  BUTTONS. — Cover  the  wire  with  a  piece  of  calico,  or 
other  material  of  the  proper  size  ;  turn  in  the  corners  neatly,  and 
work  round  the  wire  in  button-hole  stitch ;  work  the  centre  like  a 
star 

Some  may  think  that  we  have  been  too  minute  ;  but  we  were 
desirous  to  omit  nothing  that  could  be  generally  useful ;  and  we 
have  had  regard  also  to  those  ladies  who,  having  been  under  no 
necessity  of  practising  plain  needlework  in  their  earlier  years,  are 
desirous  of  preparing  articles  for  their  humbler  fellow  creatures, 
or  by  the  sale  of  which,  they  procure  more  ample  supplies  for  the 
funds  of  charity.  We  have  good  reason  to  believe,  that  many  well- 
disposed  persons  would  be  glad,  in  this  way,  to  aid  the  cause  of 
humanity — and  to  devote  a  portion  of  their  leisure  hours  to  the 
augmenting  of  the  resources  of  benevolence — but  they  are  destitute 
of  the  practical  experience  necessary  to  enable  them  to  do  so.  To 


LA  OIKS'    WORK-TABLE    BOOK. 


61 


all  such,  \ve  hope  our  little  manual  will  be  an  acceptable  offering, 
and  enable  them,  by  a  judicious  employment  of  the  means  and  tal- 
ents committed  to  their  trust,  to  realize  the  truth  of  the  saying  of 
the  wise  man,  "  There  is  that  scattereth  and  yet  increaseth." 


In  order  to  render  the  elementary  stitches  of  fancy  needle-work 
as  easy  of  acquirement  as  possible,  we  subjoin  the  following  dia 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

31 

32 

33 

34 

35 

36 

37 

38 

39 

40 

41 

42 

43 

44 

45 

46 

47 

48 

49 

50 

51 

52 

53 

54 

55 

56 

57 

58 

59 

60 

61 

62 

63 

64 

65 

66 

67 

68 

69 

70 

71 

72 

73 

74 

75 

76 

77 

78 

79 

80 

81 

82 

83 

84 

85 

86 

87 

88 

89 

90 

91 

92 

93 

94 

95 

96 

97 

98 

99 

100 

101 

102 

103 

104 

105 

106 

107 

108 

109 

110 

111 

112 

113 

114 

115 

116 

117 

118 

119 

120 

gium  ;  any  lady  will  thus  be  able  to  form  the  various  stitches,  by 
simply  taking  a  piece  of  canvas,  and  counting  the  corresponding 
number  of  threads,  necessary  to  form  a  square  like  the  diagram  ; 


62  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

.she  will  perceive  the  lines  represent  the  threads  of  the  canvas,  the 
squares  numbered  being  the  holes  formed  by  the  intersection  of 
the  threads ;  and  following  the  directions  given  in  the  accompany- 
ing chapter,  she  will  soon  be  able  to  work  any  patterns  here  ex- 
hibited, and  such  new  ones  as  her  inventive  genius  may  lead  her 
to  design. 


CHAPTER    VI. 

FANCY   NEEDLEWORK. 

EXPLANATION   OF   STITCHES. 

THE  Art  of  Fancy  Needlework  is  closely  allied  to  the  sister 
ones  of  Painting  and  Design  ;  and  appears  to  have  been  well  un- 
derstood amongst  the  most  polished  nations  of  antiquity.  We 
know  that  the  art  was  practised  with  considerable  success,  by  the 
Babylonians,  Egyptians,  Persians,  and  Arabians,  as  well  as  by  the 
Greeks  and  Romans.  The  Jews  brought  the  art  of  needlework 
with  them,  out  of  Egypt,  as  we  learn  from  the  directions  for  build- 
ing the  Tabernacle,  and  preparing  the  holy  garments  ;  and  Sidon  is 
celebrated  for  the  rich  wares  of  broidered  cloths,  in  which  part  of 
her  extensive  traffic  consisted.  In  more  modern  times,  we  find 
the  fair  hands  of  the  ladies  of  Europe  employed  in  depicting  the 
events  of  history,  in  tapestry,  of  which  the  much  celebrated  Ba- 
yeux  tapestry — supposed  to  have  been  wrought  by  Matilda,  the 
beloved  wife  of  William  the  Norman — detailing  the  various  oc- 
currences in  the  life  of  Harold,  from  his  arrival  in  Normandy,  to 
the  fatal  battle  of  Hastings,  is  a  standing  proof.  Ladies  of  high 
rank  employed  themselves  thus,  for  various  purposes,  previous  to 
the  reformation  ;  and  it  is  a  fact,  worthy  of  especial  notice,  that 
in  those  ages,  when  it  has  been  required  for  the  adornment  of  the 


64  LADIES'  WORK-TARLE  BOOK. 

temples,  and  the  encouragement  of  honorable  valor  and  has  thus 
become  associated  with  the  sanctifying  influences  of  religion  and 
manly  virtue,  it  has  flourished  most.*  Queen  Adelicia,  wife  of 
Henry  I.  ;  Ann,  queen  of  France  ;  Catherine,  of  Aiagon  ;  Lady 
Jane  Grey  ;  Mary  Queen  of  Scots  ;  and  Queen  Elizabeth,  all  ex- 
celled in  this  delightful  art.  At  the  Reformation,  or  soon  after  that 
event,  needlework  began  sensibly  to  decline,  and  continued  to  do 
so,  until  the  commencement  of  the  present  century.  At  that  time, 
a  new  and  elevated  development  of  mind  began  to  appear,  which 
was  accompanied  by  a  very  visible  advancement  in  every  depart- 
ment of  arts  and  sciences.  This  revival  of  the  fine  arts,  like  the 
mental  and  sacred  gushing  forth  of  mind,  which  gave  it  birth,  wa? 
often  in  extremely  bad  taste ;  but  as  the  latter  becomes  more  purified 
and  exalted,  the  former  advances  in  improvement — mind  asserts 
its  superiority  over  matter,  and  infuses  into  the  useful  and  orna- 
mental, a  living  spirit  of  moral  affection  and  enlightened  sentiment. 
The  year  1800  gave  to  the  world,  the  celebrated  Berlin  patterns  ; 
but  it  was  not  until  a  lapse  of  thirty  years,  that  their  merits  became 
generally  appreciated  ;  but  now,  such  is  the  perfection  attained  in 
the  cultivation  of  the  art  of  needlework,  that  some  of  its  produc- 
tions, for  delicacy  and  expression,  may  almost  bear  comparison 
with  painting  in  oil, 

TENT  STITCH. — Work  the  cross  way  of  the  canvas,  bringing 
your  needle  up  through  the  diagram, 
No.  2  down  1 1 ,  one  stitch ;  up  3  down 
12,  up  4  down  13,  and  so  continue 
to  the  end.  This  stitch  is  proper  for  grounding,  and  for  groups 
of  flowers ;  but  in  the  latter  case,  it  will  produce  the  best  effect  if 

*  The  presentation  of  an  embroidered  scarf  was  a  common  mark  of  approval  in 
the  ages  of  chivalry. 


LADIES      WORK-TABLE    BOOK. 


65 


Ihe  flowers  are  done  in  tent  stitch,  and  the  grounding  in  tent  cross 
stitch  (which  is  the  same  as  tent  stitch,  only  crossed.) 

CROSS  STITCH — Is  the  same  as  marking  stitch ;  bring  your  nee- 
dle up  21  down  3,  up  23  down  1,  one  stitch,  up 
41  down  23,  up  43  down  21,  and  so  continue  till 
your  work  is  finished.  All  the  stitches  must  in- 
cline to  the  right,  or  the  work  will  appear  imper- 
fect and  unsightly. 

DOUBLE  CROSS  STITCH. — This  is  a  stich  very  easy  of  execution. 
Bring  your  needle  up  No.  41,  over  four 
threads,  down  5,  up  1  down  45,  up  43 
down  25,  up  3  down  25,  up  3  down  21, 
up  43  down  21,  one  stitch.  Four,  six,  or 
eight  threads  may  be  taken  in  depth,  and 

two  in  width,  according  as  taste  may  suggest.     This  is  an  admi- 
rable stitch  for  large  pieces  of  work.     Gold  thread  introduced  be- 
tween each  row  is  a  desirable  addition  to  its  attractive  beauty. 
STRAIGHT  CROSS  STITCH. — This  is  a  new  invention,  and  has  a 
pjetty  appearance.     Bring  your  needle  up  No.  11 
down  13,  up  2  down  22,  one  stitch ;  up  31  down 
33,  up  22  down  42,  and  so  on  in  like  manner,  till 
the  work  is  finished. 
DOUBLE  STRAIGHT  CROSS  STITCH. — Bring  your  needle  up  No. 
3  down  43,  up  21  down  25,  up  14  down  32, 
up   12  down  34,  one  stitch.     Owing  to  the 
number  of  times  the  wool  is  crossed,   each 
stitch  has  a  very   bead-like  appearance.     A 
piece  wholly  worked  in  this,  has  an  admirable 
effect. 


66 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 


GOBELIN  STITCH. — This  truly  beautiful  stitch  is  especially  cal- 
culated for  working  on  canvas  traced  with  flow- 
ers, leaves,  &c. ;  and  also  for  working  designs, 
copied  from  oil  paintings.     Bring  your  needle 
up  No.  2  down  21,  one  stitch,  up  3  down  22, 
up  4  down  23,  and  so  on  to  the  end  of  the  row.     The  stitches 
may  be  taken  either  in  height  or  width,  as  may  best  accord  with 
the  taste,  or  with  the  subject  represented. 

BASKET   STITCH. — This  is  the  same  as  Irish  stitch,  but  the 
arrangment  is  different.     Work  three  stitches 
over  two  threads ;  these  are  called  short  stitch- 
es ;  and  then  the  long  ones  are  formed  by  work- 
ing three  over  six  threads,  the  centre  of  which 
are  the  two  on  which  the  short  stitches  were 
worked.     Thus  you  must  continue  the  short  and  long  stitches  al- 
ternately, until  you  have  finished  the  row.     In  the  next,  the  long 
stitches  must  come  under  the  short  ones ;  and  this  diversity  must 
be  kept  up  until  all  the  rows  are  completed.     To  finish  the  pat- 
tern, you  have  only  to  run  a  loose  film  of  wool  under  the  long 
stitches  on  each  of  the  short  ones,  and  the  task  is  done. 

IRISH  STITCH. — This  is  the  production  of  an  Irish  lady  of  high 
rank.  Bring  your  needle  up  No.  1  over  four 
threads  down  41,  one  stitch  back  two  threads, 
up  22  down  62,  up  43  (observe  this  is  in  a  line 
with  41)  down  83,  up  64  (in  a  line  with  62) 
down  104,  up  102  down  62,  up  81  down  41, 
continuing  thus  over  the  square.  The  spaces 

left  between  every  other  stitch  must  be  filled  up  with  half  stitches ; 

for  instance,  up  81  down  101,  up  83  down  103.     It  is  also  some- 


LADIES     WORK-TABLE    BOOK. 


67 


times  worked  covering  six  and  eight  threads  of  the  canvas  at  a 
time,  coming  back  three  or  four  threads,  in  the  same  proportion  as 
the  directions  given.  This  stitch  is  proper  for  grounding,  when 
the  design  is  worked  in  tent  or  cross  stitch  ;  and  the  effect  would 
be  heightened  by  two  strongly  contrasted  shades  of  the  same  color 
It  can  be  applied  to  a  great  variety  of  devices,  diamonds  and  van- 
dykes  for  example,  and  many  others  which  will  suggest  them- 
selves to  the  fair  votaries  of  this  delightful  art.  It  looks  pretty, 
and  is  easy  of  execution. 

FEATHER  STITCH. — This,  as  its  name  implies,  has  a  light  and 
feathery  appearance,  and  will  be  found  proper 
for  any  work  in  which  lightness  should  pre- 
dominate. You  must  proceed  as  in  tent  stitch, 
and  work  over  twelve  threads  or  less,  but  not 
more ;  then  bring  your  needle  out  one  thread 
below,  and  cross  on  each  side  of  your  straight 
stitch :  you  must  so  continue,  taking  care  to  drop  a  thread  in  height 
and  keeping  the  bottom  even  with  the  long  stitch  with  which  you 
began.  Thus  proceed  until  you  have  ten  threads  on  the  cross, 
which  will  make  a  square  :  of  course  you  must,  in  the  same  man- 
ner, form  all  the  squares  necessary  to  complete  the  row.  You 
can  vary  the  pattern  considerably  by  making  the  edges  irregular, 
which  is  done  by  lowering  your  slant  stitches.,  the  first  one  two, 
and  the  next  one  thread,  and  so  proceeding.  This  will,  in  our 
opinion,  improve  the  appearance  of  the  work.  You  can  intro- 
duce as  many  shades  as  ycu  please,  only  taking  care  that  a  pro- 
per contrast  is  duly  preserved.  You  finish  by  stitching  up  the 
centre  of  each  row  on  a  single  thread.  For  this  purpose,  silk  or 
gold  thread  may  be  introduced  with  advantage.  It  should  be  re- 
marked, that  each  row  must  be  worked  the  contrary  way  to  the 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 


one  that  preceded  it,  so  that  the  wide  and  narrow  portions  may 
meet  and  blend  with  each  other. 

POINT  STITCH. — To  work  this  stitch,  take  four  threads  straight 
way  of  the  canvas,  and  hring  the  needle 
three  steps  up,  and  so  proceed  until  your 
point  is  of  a  sufficient  depth.  This  stitch 
looks  pretty,  worked  in  different  and  well 
contrasted  shades,  and  may  he  applied  to 
many  useful  and  ornamental  purposes. 

QUEEN  STITCH. — Work  over  four  threads  in  height  and  two  in 
width,  crossing  from  right  to  left,  and  back 
again.  Finish  each  row  by  a  stitch  across, 
between  them,  taking  a  thread  of  each,  and,  of 
course,  working  upon  two  threads.  This  is  a 
very  neat  stitch. 
QUEEN'S  VANDYKE. — This  is  supposed  to  be  the  invention  of 
Princess  Clementina,  one  of  the  daughters,  we 
believe  of  a  king  of  France.  Take  twelve 
threads,  and  reduce  two  each  stitch,  until  the 
length  and  breadth  are  in  conformity.  It  can 
be  introduced  into  a  variety  of  work,  and  looks  well. 

SINGLE  PLAIT    STITCH. — Pass  the  needle  across  the  canvas 
through  two  threads,  from  right  to  left ;  you  then 
cross  four  threads  downward,  and  pass  the  needle 
as  before ;  then  cross  upward  over  two  threads 
aslant,  and  again  pass  over  four  threads,  always 
working  downward,  and  passing  the  needle  from 
right  to  left,  across  two  threads,  until  the  row  is  completed  as  far 
as  you  desire. 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  69 

DOUBLE  PLAIT  STITCH. — This  stitch  is  from  left  to  right  across 
four  threads  aslant  downward,  and  crossed  from 
right  to  left,  the  needle  passing  out  at  the  left,  in  the 
middle  of  the  four  threads  just  crossed,  and  so  con- 
tinue working  downward,  until  you  have  finished 
the  pattern. 

VELVET  STITCH. — This  is  a  combination  of  cross  stitch  and 
queen  stitch,  and  is  very  ornamental  when  properly  done.  You 
work  in  plain  cross  stitch  three  rows,  then  leave  three  threads,  and 
again  work  three  rows  as  before  ;  thus  proceed  until  your  canvas 
is  covered,  leaving  three  threads  between  every  triple  row  of  cross 
stitch.  Then  across  the  rows  work  in  queen  stitch  with  double 
wool  ;  but  instead  of  taking  two  distinct  threads  for  each  stitch, 
you  may  take  one  thread  of  the  preceding  stitch  ;  this  will  give 
an  added  thickness  to  your  work.  It  will  be  advisable  to  work 
the  wool  over  slips  of  card  or  parchment,  as  doing  so  will  make 
it  better  to  cut.  If  you  work  it  in  squares,  they  should  not  be 
larger  than  seventeen  stitches ;  and  to  look  well,  they  must  each 
be  placed  the  contrary  way  to  the  other. 

ALGERINE  WORK. — This  work  much  resembles  a  Venetian  car- 
pet, but  is  finer ;  it  looks  best  done  in  very  small  patterns.  It  is 
worked  over  cotton  piping  cord,  the  straight  way  of  the  corners  ; 
the  stitches  are  over  three  threads.  Your  work  as  in  raised  work, 
putting  the  colors  in  as  you  come  to  them,  and  counting  three 
stitches  in  width,  as  one  stitch  when  you  are  working  Berlin  pat- 
tern. The  paper  canvas  is  No.  45  and  the  cord  No.  00.  It  is 
proper  for  table  mats  and  other  thick  kinds  of  work. 

To  FILL  UP  CORNERS. — Work  in  any  stitch  you  prefer  and 
shade  in  accordance  with  the  subject.  In  these,  and  ornamental 


70  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

borders,  &c.,  there  is  much  room  for  the  development  of  taste  and 
judgment.  In  all  that,  you  undertake,  it  will  be  well  for  you  to 
recollect,  that  nothing  is  lost  by  taking  time  to  think.  However 
trivial  and  unimportant  our  actions  may  be,  they  should  always 
be  preceded  by  mature  deliberation.  A  habit  of  thought  once  es- 
tablished will  remain  through  life,  and  protect  its  possessor  from 
the  countless  miseries  of  rash  actions,  and  the  agonies  of  remorse 
and  unavailable  repentance 


CHAPTER    VII. 

FANCY   NEEDLEWORK. 

EXPLANATION  OF  PATTERNS. 

THE  BEAUFORT  STAR. — This  is  a  beautiful  pattern,  and  will 
look  well,  as  a  centre,  for  any  mod- 
erately-sized piece  of  work.  Begin 
on  the  width  of  the  canvas,  and  take 
twelve  threads,  reducing  at  every 
stitch,  one  thread  for  six  rows,  and 
thus  continue  decreasing  and  increas- 
increasing  alternately,  to  form  squares 
like  diamonds,  to  the  end  of  the  row. 
The  next  row  is  performed  in  the  same  manner,  only  you  work 
on  the  long  way  of  the  canvas.  Introduce  gold  or  silver  thread 
between  where  the  stitches  join,  and  so  finish. 

CHESS  PATTERN. — Work  a  square  in  cross  stitch,  with  three 
stitches,  making  three  of  a  dark  shade  and  six  of 
white,  working  as  many  squares  as  you  require, 
and  leaving  spaces  equal  to  those  occupied  by 
cross  stitch,  which  you  must  fill  up  with  Irish 
stitch,  working  across  the  canvas.  You  can  em- 
ploy any  color  that  will  harmonize  well  with  the  cross  stitch;  and 


72 


LADIES'  WORK-TARLE  BOOK. 


to  complete  the  pattern,  you  must  work  a  single  stitch  across  each 
square,  in  Irish  stitch. 

DICE  PATTERN. — This  is  formed  by  working  rows  of  eight 
stitches,  in  any  color  you  please.  You  must  here  have  four  shades, 
and  work  two  stitches  in  each  shade.  Commence  a  stitch,  ovei 
ten  threads,  and  drop  one  each  time,  until  you  have  taken  eight 
stitches  ;  the  intermediate  spaces  are  for  the  ground,  which  must 
contrast  with  the*pattern  ;  and  the  introduction  of  a  little  gold  or 
silver  thread,  would  be  an  inprovement. 

DOUBLE  DIAMOND,  IN  LONG  STITCH. — This  pattern,  when  it  is 
worked  in  two  colors  strongly 
contrasted,  and  the  diamonds 
composed  of  beads,  is  exceed- 
ingly beautiful.  The  shades  of 
scarlet  and  blue,  on  a  white  or 
black  ground,  produce  the  most 
agreeable  effect. 

GERMAN  PATTERN. — There  is  a  Gothic  grandeur  and  sobriety 
about  this  pattern  which  gives  to  it  a  no- 
ble and  grave  aspect.  It  is  worked  in 
Irish  stitch,  six  threads  straight  down  the 
second  row,  falling  about  four  stitches 
below  the  first;  the  third,  the  same  below 
the  second ;  the  fourth  and  fifth  the  same 
number  below  the  third;  the  next  three 
the  same ;  and  then  six  in  the  same  pro- 
portion. You  then  increase,  and  so  ren- 
der the  arch  uniform.  The  pattern  then  looks  like  the  head  of  a 
Gothic  column  reversed ;  and  the  centre  should  be  so  disposed  as 


LADIES     WORK-TABLE    BOOK. 


73 


to  produce  the  best  effect :  those  for  the  first  and  last  row  must  be 
of  the  same  tint ;  and  the  same  rule  applies  to  all  the  rest.  A 
lady  can,  of  course,  choose  her  own  colors ;  but  care  must  be  had 
to  blend  the  alternate  light  and  dark  shades  so  as  to  produce  a 
natural  harmony. 

IRISH  DIAMOND. — This  ia  beautiful,  and  is  very  easy  of  execu- 
tion. Commence  with  two  threads,  and 
increase  to  fourteen,  working  across  the 
canvas,  and  increasing  one  thread  each 
way;  then  decrease  to  two  in  the  same 
manner;  and  so  proceed,  until  the  row 
is  completed.  Begin  the  next  row  two 
threads  down  the  canvas,  and  place  a  gold 
or  steel  bead  in  the  centre  of  each  diamond. 
Finish  with  a  bordering  of  gold  twist,  or  mother  of  pearl. 

LACK. — This  is  a  new  invention,  and  is  somewhat  difficult  of 
execution.     The  recognized  material   is   a 
black  Chantilly  silk.     It  is  mostly  worked 
from  Berlin  patterns,  and  may  be  done  either 
in  cross  stitch,  or  in  straight  stitch  pattern : 
the  edge  is  finished  in  cross  stitch  with  wool. 
You  may  imitate  a  pearl  border,  by  taking 
two  threads  directly  behind  the  border.    It  is 
used  for  sofa  pillows,  &c.,  to  which  it  forms  a  very  pretty  termin- 
ation indeed. 

HEART  PATTERN. — This  pattern  looks  well.  Pass  the  wool 
over  ten  threads  in  the  centre,  then  make  four  additional  stitches 
of  ten  threads,  dropping  one  each  time  from  the  top,  and  taking 
one  up  at  the  bottom ;  then  take  the  sixth  stitch,  dropping  a  thread 


74 


LADIES     WORK-TABLE    BOOK* 


at  the  top  as  beiore,  but  keeping  the  bottom  even  with  the  fifth 
stitch ;  your  seventh  stitch  must  be  in  six  threads,  decreasing  two 
both  at  the  top  and  bottom ;  and  your  last  will  be  on  two  threads, 
worked  in  the  same  manner:  then  proceed  to  form  the  other  half 
of  the  pattern.  The  hearts  may  be  worked  in  various  shades  of 
the  same  color,  and  the  space  between  them  is  to  filled  up  with  a 
diamond,  or  with  an  ornament  in  gold  twist,  or  pearl. 

PRINCESS  ROYAL. — Work  this  in  rows  of  stitches  over  four  and 
two  threads  alternately,  leaving  one  thread  between 
each  stitch  :  begin  the  next  row  two  threads  down, 
with  a  stitch  over  two  threads,  and  proceed  as  before. 
Work  in  two  strongly  contrasted  shades,  and  fill  in 
the  vacancies  with  gold  or  pearl  beads. 

ROMAN  PATTERN. — The  material  to  be  used,  in  working  the 
pattern,  is  purse  twist;  and  the  grounding  may  be  done  in  gobelin 
or  tent  stitch.  The  pattern  is  to  be  worked  in  three  shades,  of  the 
same  color  ;  the  centre  forming  a  diamond  in  the  lightest  shade, 
then  the  next,  and  lastly  the  darkest  to  form  a  broad  outline. 
This  kind  of  work  is  done  quickly,  and  presents  a  rich  appearance. 
RUSSIAN  PATTERN. — This  is  worked  in  rows  across  the  canvas, 
in  stitches  of  irregular  lengths,  and  has  a  pleas- 
ing effect.  Pass  the  first  stitch  over  sixteen 
threads,  the  second  over  twelve,  the  third  over 
sixteen,  and  so  proceed  to  the  seventh  row, 
which  is  the  centre.  Pass  the  stitch  over 
eighteen  threads,  and  proceed  as  before  for  six 
rows ;  leave  a  space  of  four  threads,  and  commence  as  at  first. 
Form  the  second  row  in  the  same  manner,  leaving  four  threads 
between  the  longest  stitches  in  each  row:  the  rows  may  be 


LADIES     WORK-TABLE    BOOK.  7r 

worked  in  any  number  of  shades,  taking  care  to  preserve  uni- 
formity, and  the  spaces  must  be  filled  in  with  a  diamond,  worked 
in  the  same  manner,  but  reduced  in  size,  and  in  one  color ;  or  it 
may  be  worked  in  gold  thread,  which  would  greatly  relieve  the 
monotonous  appearance  of  the  pattern.     It  will  be  best  to  begin 
and  finish  each  row  with  a  half  diamond. 
VICTORIA  PATTERN. — Pass  the  wool  or  silk  for  the  centre  stitch 
over  six  threads,  the  next  over  five,  and  so 
proceed  to  the  corner,  which  will  be  on  one 
thread;  the  other  side  must  be  done  in  a 
different  shade,  but  the  same  color,  and  the 
shades  of  each  must  be  turned  alternately 
the  opposite  way.    The  corner  stitch  should 
be  of  some  brilliant  colored  silk,  if  not  of 
gold  thread  :  the  top  of  one  square  will  be  the  bottom  of  another, 
and  you  work  the  three  stitches  between  the  corners  in  black  or 
dark  wool.     The  squares  must  be  filled  in  with  long  stitch,  work- 
ing from  corner  t«  corner,  across  the  canvas. 

WAVE  PATTERN. — These  are  extremely  beautiful,  when  worked 
in  four  or  five  shades.  They  are  done  in  Irish  stitch,  and  the 
rows  must  be  worked  close  together,  the  wool  is  passed  over  six 
threads,  and  the  rows  dropped  a  few  threads  below  each  other,  so 
as  to  form  a  wave.  The  pattern  maybe  varied  almost  infinitely; 
the  following  forms  a  beautiful  specimen  :  work  six  rows  of  any 
length  you  choose,  dropping  one  stitch  at  the  top  and  adding  one 
to  the  bottom  of  each  row  ;  then  proceed  upwards,  for  six  rows, 
and  you  will  obtain  a  beautiful  pointed  wave,  the  seventh  row 
forming  the  centre ;  then  work  nine  rows,  of  which  the  first,  third, 
fifth  seventh,  and  ninth,  must  be  level  with  the  second  row  of  the 


76 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 


pointed  wave ;  and  the  second,  fourth,  sixth,  and  eight,  must  be 
on  a  level  with  the  first  and  last  rows,  while  the  first,  third,  fifth, 
seventh,  and  ninth,  must  drop  two  stitches,  so  as  to  produce 
an  irregular  edge ;  then  work  a  pointed  wave,  as  before,  and  the 
pattern  is  complete 

WINDSOR  PATTERN. — In  working  this  pattern,  you  must  count 
eight  threads  down  the  canvas,  and  then  increase 
one  each  way,  until  you  have  twelve,  so  as  to 
form  a  diamond  of  six  sides.     The  second  row 
must  be  begun  with  twelve  threads,  so  as  to  join 
the  longest  stitch  in  the  former  row.     When  each 
row  is  finished,  the  intersectional  diamonds  must 
be  filled  in ;  which  may  be  done  either  in  silk  or  gold  thread,  and 
has  ane  xtremly  neat  appearance. 


SUGGESTIONS   AS   TO   PATTERNS. 

FOR  bottle-stand,  or  any  small  piece  of  work,  star  patterns  are 
very  beautiful.  The  materials  proper  for  working  them,  are  silk 
and  wool,  with  gold  or  any  other  kind  of  beads,  and  gold  thread 
or  twist.  For  foundations,  you  may  use  either  velvet  or  silk 
canvas. 

Small  sprigs  are  pretty,  for  work  that  is  not  too  large ;  chenille 
is  proper  for  the  flowers,  and  the  stalks  and  leaves  look  best  in 
silk ;  a  few  gold  beads  add  to  the  effect. 

For  large  pieces  of  work,  medallion  patterns  are  much  used, 
and  produce  a  good  impression  on  the  eye ;  the  outline  is  to  be 
traced  in  brilliant  silk,  and  for  the  centre  employ  two  shades  of 
the  same  color,  working  half  in  each  shade  ;  the  medallion  should 
be  placed  upon  a  white  field,  and  the  whole  grounded  in  a  dark 
color,  which  harmonizes  well  with  the  design  of  the  pattern. 

Bags  may  .be  worked  in  a  variety  of  ways,  to  suit  taste  and 
convenience.  The  border  is  often  made  to  resemble  black  lace, 
and  when  properly  executed,  looks  extremely  well.  The  parts 
filled  up,  should  be  worked  in  black  floss  or  black  wool.  Leaves 
may  be  worked  with  gold  twist,  or  beads  may  be  employed.  The 
grounding  should  be  in  fine  twisted  silk :  any  color  may  be  used. 
In  other  cases,  white  wool,  white  silk,  silver  and  glass  beads, 
and  several  other  materials  are  in  requisition ;  so  that  here  is  am- 
ple scope  for  classification  and  arrangement.  A  mourning  bag 


78  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

looks  well  done  to  imitate  lace,  worked  in  black  floss  silk,  and 
ornamented  with  black  glass  and  silver  beads,  disposed  in  a  taste- 
ful and  ornamental  style.  Sometimes  a  bag  is  worked  as  a  shield 
of  four  squares ;  in  such  a  case,  two  squares  should  be  worked  in 
feather  stitch,  and  the  others  in  any  stitch  that  will  form  a  pleas- 
ing contrast :  the  border  should  be  a  simple,  but  elegant  lace 
pattern. 

For  braces  and  bracelets,  any  small  border  pattern  may  be 
adopted.  They  should  be  worked  in  two  colors,  highly  contrasted, 
for  bracelets :  gold  twist  round  the  edge  is  a  great  addition. 

These  suggestions  in  reference  to  patterns,  might  have  been 
greatly  extended ;  but  we  wish  every  young  lady  to  draw  upon 
the  resources  of  her  own  mind,  and  to  think  for  herself.  To  one, 
who  is  desirous  to  excel,  we  have  said  enough  ;  a  little  thought 
will  enable  her  to  apply  the  general  principles,  here  laid  down, 
to  any  particular  case ;  and,  without  the  employment  of  the  think- 
ing faculty,  the  most  minute  instructions,  in  this  or  any  other  art, 
would  fail  in  producing  their  intended  effects. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 
FANCY   NEEDLEWORK. 

INSTRUCTIONS   IN   EMBROIDERY. 

EMBROIDERY  WITH  SILK. — The  materials  used  as  founda- 
tions, are  various,  embracing  silk,  satin,  cloth,  and  velvet ;  and 
the  silk  employed  in  working  is  purse  silk,  deckers,  half  twist, 
and  floss ;  but  floss  is  most  in  request. 

Embroidery  should  always  be  worked  in  a  frame,  as  it  cannot 
be  done  well  on  the  hand,  except  in  very  small  pieces.  The 
same  careful  attention  to  shades,  before  recommended,  is  necessary 
here ;  for  small  flowers  two  or  three  shades  are  sufficient ;  but  in 
roses  and  others,  that  are  large,  five  shades  are  in  general  required; 
the  darker  shades  should  be  worked  into  the  centre  of  the  flower, 
(and  it  is  often  advisable  to  work  them  in  French  knots,)*  and 
thence  proceed  with  the  lighter,  until  you  come  to  the  lightest, 
which  forms  the  outline.  The  pattern  must  be  correctly  drawn 
upon  the  material,  and  in  working  leaves  you  must  begin  with  the 
points,  working  in  the  lighter  shades  first,  and  veining  with  a 
shade  more  dark  :  you  may  soften  the  blending,  by  working  each 
shade  up,  between  the  stitches  of  the  preceding  shade.  Three, 

This  applies  especially  to  the  working  of  dahlias  :  begin  with  the  centre  knot 
nnd  work  round  it  as  many  as  ore  required. 


80  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

or  at  most  four  shades,  are  sufficient  for  the  leaves :  the  introduc- 
tion of  more  would  injure  the  effect. 

CHENILLE  EMBROIDERY — Is  very  beautiful  for  screens,  &c., 
but  must  not  be  used  for  any  work  that  is  liable  to  pressure. 
Choose  a  needle  as  large  as  can  be  conveniently  used,  and  be 
careful  not  to  have  the  lengths  of  chenille  too  long,  as  it  is  apt  to 
get  rough  in  the  working.  For  flowers,  it  is  necessary  that  the 
shades  should  not  be  too  near.  The  chenille  must  pass  through 
the  material  freely,  so  as  not  to  draw  it.  It  looks  well  done  in 
velvet,  with  occasional  introductions  of  gold  and  silver  thread. 

RAISED  EMBROIDERY. — Draw  the  pattern  on  the  material  as 
before.  Work  the  flowers,  &c.,  to  the  height  required,  in  soft 
cotton,  taking  care  that  the  centre  is  much  higher  than  the  edges. 
A  careful  study  of  natuie  is  indispensable  to  the  attainment  of  ex- 
cellence in  this  kind  of  work.  Pursue  the  same  method  with  your 
colors,  as  in  flat  embroidery,  only  working  them  much  closer. 
The  most  striking  effect  is  produced  when  the  flowers  or  animals 
are  raised,  and  leaves  in  flat  embroidery.  Much  in  this,  as  in 
every  department  of  this  charming  art,  must  depend  upon  the  taste 
and  judgment — correct  or  otherwise — of  the  fair  artist.  A  servile 
cppyist  will  never  attain  to  excellence. 

EMBROIDERY  IN  WOOL. — This  is  proper  for  any  large  piece  of 
work.  The  rales  for  shading  embroidery  with  silk  apply  here ; 
only  the  work  must  not  be  quite  so  thick  on  the  material ;  care 
must  also  be  taken  to  bring  the  wool  through  on  the  right  side,  as 
near  as  possible  to  where  it  passes  through,  in  order  that  none 
may  appear  on  the  wrong  side,  which  would  occasion  much  trou- 
ble in  drawing  it,  even  when  removed  from  the  frame.  When 
finished,  and  while  in  the  frame,  it  will  be  proper  to  damp  the 
back  with  a  little  isinglass  water,  and  press  with  a  warm  iron  on 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  81 

the  wrong  side.  This  kind  of  work  is  appropriate  for  the  orna- 
menting of  various  articles  of  dress,  on  which,  when  judiciously 
placed,  it  has  a  pleasing  effect. 

PATTERNS. — This  is  a  part  of  fancy  needlework  to  which  too 
much  attention  cannot  be  paid,  but  it  is  one  much  neglected.  We 
want  to  see  native  genius  developed,  and  we  are  convinced  that 
many  a  fair  one  could  increase  our  stock  of  patterns,  with  new 
and  surprising  conceptions,  if  she  could  but  be-induced  to  make 
the  trial.  To  draw  patterns  for  embroidery  or  braid  work,  get  a 
piece  of  cartridge  paper,  and  having  drawn  out  the  design,  trace  it 
off  upon  tissue  paper,  or  which  is  better,  a  tracing  paper,  properly 
prepared ;  after  which  you  will  find  it  easy  to  pierce  it  through 
with  a  piercer,  taking  care  not  to  run  one  hole  into  another.  Lay 
the  paper  so  prepared  upon  the  material  which  you  intend  to  work, 
and  dust  it  with  a  pounce  bag,  so  that  the  powder  may  go  through 
the  holes  ;  the  paper  must  then  be  carefully  removed,  and  if  the 
material  be  dark,  take  a  camel's  hair  pencil,  and  paint  the  marks 
with  a  mixture  of  white  lead  and  gum  water ;  or  if  you  prefer  it, 
you  can  trace  the  marks  left  by  the  pounce,  with  a  black-lead 
pencil,  but  the  other  methods  are  preferable.  A  little  practice  and 
perseverence  will  enable  you  to  became  tolerably  proficient  in  this 
department,  and  confer  upon  you  the  further  advantage  of  aiding 
you  in  acquiring  those  habits  of  untiring  diligence,  which  are  so 
essential  to  the  attainment  of  any  object.  Ever  recollect,  that  any- 
thing worth  doing  at  all,  is  worth  doing  well. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

FANCY    NEEDLEWORK. 

PREPARATION   OF   FRAMES. 

THIS  is  a  subject  which  must  be  carefully  attended  to,  or  much 
unnecessary  trouble  will  be  incurred  in  consequence. 

To  DRESS  A  FRAME  FOR  CROSS  STITCH. — The  canvas  must 
be  hemmed  neatly  round  :  then  count  your  threads,  and  place  the 
centre  one  exactly  in  the  middle  of  the  frame.  The  canvas  must 
be  drawn  as  tight  as  the  screws  or  pegs  will  permit ;  and  if  too 
long,  should  be  wrapped  round  the  poles  with  tissue  paper,  to  keep 
it  from  dust  and  the  friction  of  the  arms,  as  that  is  essential  to  the 
beauty  of  the  work.  It  must  in  all  cases  be  rolled  under,  or  it 
will  occasion  much  trouble  in  the  working.  When  placed  quite 
even  in  the  frame,  secure  by  fine  twine  passed  over  the  stretchers, 
and  through  the  canvas  very  closely;  both  sides  must  be  tight- 
ened gradually,  or  it  will  draw  to  one  side,  and  the  work  will  be 
spoiled. 

To  DRESS  A  FRAME  FOR  CLOTH  WORK. — Stretch  your  cloth 
in  the  frame  as  tight  as  possible,  the  right  side  uppermost. 

The  canvas  on  which  you  intend  to  work,  must  be  of  a  size  to 
correspond  with  the  pattern,  and  must  be  placed  exactly  in  the 
centre  of  the  cloth,  to  which  it  is  to  be  secured  as  smooth  as  pos- 
sible. When  the  work  is  finished  the  can*ras  must  be  cut,  and 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  83 

the  threads  drawn  out,  first  one  and  then  the  other.  It  is  neces- 
sary to  be  especially  careful  in  working,  not  to  split  the  threads, 
as  that  would  prevent  them  drawing,  and  would  spoil  the  appear- 
ance of  the  work.  In  all  cases,  it  is  advisable  to  place  the  cloth 
so  as  that  the  nap  may  go  downward.  In  working  bouquets  of 
flowers,  this  rule  is  indispensable. 

The  patterns  for  cloth  work  should  be  light  and  open.  It  looks 
well  for  sofas,  arm  chairs,  &c.,  but  is  by  no  means  so  durable  as 
work  done  with  wool,  entirely  on  canvas. 

To  DRESS  A  FRAME  FOR  TENT  STITCH. — Prepare  the  frame,  and 
brace  the  canvas  as  for  cross  stitch,  only  not  quite  even,  but  inclin- 
ing the  contrary  way  to  that  in  which  you  slant  your  stitch.  This 
is  necessary,  as  tent  stitch  always  twists  a  little.  This  method 
will  cause  the  work,  when  taken  out  of  the  frame,  to  appear  toler- 
ably straight.  Should  it  after  all  be  crooked,  it  should  be  nailed 
at  the  edges  to  a  square  board,  and  the  work  may  then  be  pulled 
even  by  the  threads  so  as  to  become  perfectly  straight.  The  back 
of  the  work  should  then  be  slightly  brushed  over  with  isinglass 
water,  taking  care  not  to  let  the  liquid  come  through  to  the  right 
side.  A  sheet  of  paper  must  be  placed  between  the  work  and  the 
board,  and  when  nearly  dry,  another  must  be  laid  upon  it,  and  the 
whole  ironed  with  a  warm  iron,  not  too  hot,  or  the  brilliancy  of 
the  colors  will  be  destroyed. 

Some  persons  use  flour  instead  of  isinglass,  but  it  is  highly  im- 
proper, and  should  never  be  restored  to. 

INSTRUCTIONS    FOR   WORKING. 

ARMORIAL  BEARINGS. — Work  the  arms  and  crest  in  silk,  as  bril- 
liancy is  the  thing  here  principally  required.  It  will  be  proper  that 


84  LADIES'  wonK-TABLE  BOOK. 

the  scroll  should  be  worked  in  wool.     The  contrast  will  have  a 
pleasing  effect 

APPLIQUE. — This  is  a  very  beautiful  kind  of  work.  The  mate- 
rial may  be  either  silk,  or  cloth,  or  any  other  fabric  which  may  be 
preferred.  Upon  this  foundation,  pieces  of  satin,  velvet,  &c.,  are 
to  be  carefully  tacked  down;  the  pattern,  leaves,  flowers,  &c.,  must 
then  be  drawn,  both  on  the  foundation,  and  the  materials  of  which 
they  are  to  be  formed ;  after  which,  they  must  be  cut  out  and  sewed 
on  in  the  neatest  manner  possible.  They  are  then  to  be  braided 
with  ther  own  colors  round  the  edges ;  you  must  also  braid  the  ten- 
drils and  the  veins  of  leaves ;  work  the  centre  of  leaves  in  a  long 
slitch,  and  the  kind  of  silk  called  purse  silk,  and  after  braiding 
the  centre  of  flowers — if  single — work  over  them  with  French 
knots,  made  by  twining  the  silk  twice  round  the  needle,  and  pass- 
ing it  through  the  material.  This  kind  of  work,  as  covers  for 
tables  chairs,  &c.,  is  very  elegant,  and  has  a  good  effect. 

BEAD  WORK. — Use  the  canvas  called  bolting  ;  and  work  two 
threads  each  way  on  the  slant,  with  china  silk,  taking  especial  care 
that  the  beads  are  all  turned  the  same  way,  that  the  whole  may 
appear  uniform.  Work  the  pattern  with  thick  beads  and  ground 
with  transparent  ones.  You  must,  in  this  kind  of  work,  have  as 
few  shades  as  possible. 

BRAID  WORK. — Trace  the  pattern  in  the  material,  and  proceed 
with  the  various  shades,  from  the  outline  or  lightest,  to  the  darkest, 
till  the  whole  is  completed.  In  this  work  only  two  shades  are 
for  leaves,  and  three  for  flowers  ;  make  the  points  as  sharp  as 
possible,  and  in  turning  the  points,  work  one  stitch  up  close  to  the 
point  where  you  turn  the  braid,  and  another  immediately  afterwards 
to  keep  it  in  its  place.  Vein  the  leaves  in  a  bouquet  with  purse  silk 
use  gold  braid  in  finishing  as  taste  may  direct ;  and  in  fastening 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  85 

draw  the  braid  through  the  material.  The  best  instrument  for  this 
purpose  is  a  chenille  needle.  In  braid  work  and  applique,  only 
one  stitch  must  be  taken  at  a  time,  or  else  the  work  will  appear 
puckered. 

BRACES. — Work  in  silk  canvas  three  inches  broad,  in  silk  or 
wool,  in  any  pattern  you  prefer. 

GEM,  OR  SET  PATTERNS. — For  this  kind  of  work,  ground  in 
black  or  dark  wool,  and  work  the  patterns  in  silks,  as  distinct  and 
bright  as  possible,  and  with  the  utmost  variety  of  colors.  The 
beauty  of  these  productions  of  the  needle,  depends  chiefly  upon 
their  brilliant  and  gem-like  appearance. 

GOBELIN. — If  you  work  in  coarse  canvas,  adopt  the  same  con- 
trast of  shades  as  you  employ  in  cross  stitch  ;  if  the  material  be 
fine,  you  must  shade  as  in  tent  stitch. 

GENTLEMEN'S  WAISTCOATS. — To  ornament  the  dress  of  a  father, 
brother,  or  husband,  must  at  all  times  be  a  pleasing  employment 
for  domestic  affection.  For  dress  waistcoats,  embroider  satin, 
either  in  the  form  of  a  wreath,  round  the  edge  of  the  waistcoat,  or 
in  small  sprigs  ;  for  morning,  you  may  work  in  any  pattern  you 
prefer.  Patterns  of  the  Caledonian  Clans  are  now  much  admired. 

LANDSCAPES. — These  may  be  rendered  extremely  beautiful,  if 
properly  managed.  The  frees  in  front  should  be  much  lighter 
than  those  seen  in  the  back  ground,  and  great  care  should  be  taken 
to  prevent  the  latter  having  too  blue  a  cast,  as  this  renders  them 
unharmonious,  when  contrasted  with  the  sky.  Represent  water  by 
shades  of  a  blue  grey :  the  sky  should  be  a  serene  blue,  with  much 
closeness,  and  mingled  with  clouds  composed  of  varying  tints  of 
a  white  and  a  yellow  drab.  If  mountains  are  seen  in  the  distance, 
they  should  be  of  a  grey  lavendar  tint,  and  some  living  animal 


86  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

should,  in  nearly  all  cases,  be  introduced.  The  presence  of  a  cow, 
sheep,  &c.,  gives  lii'e  and  animation  to  the  view. 

MOSAIC  WORK. — If  you  work  with  wool,  cut  it  into  short 
lengths,  and  untwist  it.  No  wool  can  be  procured  sufficiently 
fine  for  this  kind  of  work.  If  you  work  with  silk,  the  finest  floss 
is  preferable  to  any  other :  split  silk  would  be  found  extremely 
inconvenient,  and  the  work  would  not  look  so  well.  Care  must 
be  taken  that  the  shades  are  very  distinct,  or  they  will  appear  jum- 
bled and  unsightly.  It  will  also  be  necessary  to  fasten  off  at  every 
shade,  and  not  to  pass  from  one  flower  to  another,  as  in  that  case 
the  fastenings  would  become  visible  on  the  right  side,  and  thus 
impair  the  beauty  of  the  performance.  In  working  a  landscape, 
some  recommend  placing  behind  the  canvas  a  painted  sky,  to  avoid 
the  trouble  of  working  one.  As  a  compliance  with  such  advice 
would  tend  to  foster  habits  ot  idleness,  and  thus  weaken  the  sense 
of  moral  propriety  which  should  in  all  we  do  be  ever  present  with 
us,  as  well  as  destroy  that  nice  sense  of  honor  and  sincerity  which 
flies  from  every  species  of  deception,  \ve  hope  the  fair  votaries  of 
this  delightful  art  will  reject  the  suggestion  with  the  contempt  it 
merits. 

PATTERNS  ON  CANVAS. — Employ  for  canvas  four  or  five  shades, 
beginning  with  the  darkest,  and  softening  gradually  into  a  lighter 
tint,  till  you  come  to  the  lightest,  following  the  distinction  of  con- 
trast exhibited  by  the  Berlin  patterns.  If  you  wish  to  introduce 
silk  into  any  part,  it  will  be  best  to  work  it  in  last.  Be  careful 
to  avoid  taking  odd  threads,  if  you  work  the  pattern  in  cross  stitch. 

PERFORATED  CARD. — The  needle  must  not  be  too  large,  or  the 
holes  will  be  liable  to  get  broken.  The  smaller  ones  must  be 
worked  in  silk :  the  larger  patterns  may  be  done  in  either  silk  or 
wool.  Sometimes  the  flowers  are  worked  in  Chenille,  and  the 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  87 

leaves  in  silk ;  this  gives  to  card  cases,  &c.,  a  beautiful  and  highly 
ornamental  appearance. 

RUG  BORDERING. — Use  a  wooden  mesh,  grooved,  an  inch  and 
a  quarter  in  width ;  pass  the  material  over  the  mesh,  and  work  in 
cross  stitch :  the  material  to  be  used,  is  what  is  called  slacks,  (a 
kind  of  worsted,)  which  must  be  six  or  eight  times  doubled.  You 
must  leave  three  threads  between  each  row,  and  not  more  than 
eight  rows  are  required  to  complete  the  border. 

WIRE  WORK. — For  this  work  choose  shades  of  a  light  in  pre- 
ference to  a  dark  color,  and  work  with  silk.  If  you  employ  both 
silk  and  wool,  silk  must  be  used  for  the  lighter  shades,  or  the 
beauty  of  the  work  will  be  impaired.  Sponge  the  whole  before 
commencing  work. 


CHAPTER    X 

FANCY    NEEDLEWORK. 

APPLICATION   OF    FANCY   NEEDLEWORK   TO   USEFUL   PURPOSES. 

LACE. — This  imitation  is  used  as  an  elegant  finish  for  carriage 
bags,  sofa  pillows,  &c. ;  and  also  for  ladies'  work  bags,  to  which 
it  is  both  ornamental  and  becoming. 

PRINCESS  ROYAL. — This  pattern  is  especially  proper  for  bags 
or  small  stands. 

POINT  STITCH,  is  well  adapted  for  working  covers  for  hassocks, 
as  well  as  for  bags  of  a  considerable  size 

BASKET  STITCH. — This  kind  of  work  is  very  elegant  for  flower, 
fiuit,  or  work  baskets  ;  or  any  other  of  an  ornamental  character. 

GERMAN  PATTERN,  is  well  adapted  for  slippers,  as,  when 
worked,  it  is  found  to  be  very  durable,  and  its  appearance  pecu- 
liarly fits  it  for  this  application. 

EMBROIDERY,  is  of  almost  universal  application :  that  with 
chenille  is  much  used  in  the  ornamental  parts  of  dress,  and  is  pro- 
ductive of  a  most  pleasing  effect.  Embroidery  in  wool  is  also 
much  in  use  for  the  same  purpose. 

RUG  BORDERINGS. — These  may  be  considered  as  articles  of  do- 
mestic economy  ;  and  besides  the  pleasure  which  arises  from  see- 
ing the  parlor,  or  the  side-board,  adorned  with  the  elegant  produc- 
tions of  a  daughter,  or  a  sister,  this  kind  of  work  is  at  all  times. 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  89 

when  properly  executed,  superior,  considered  merely  as  work,  far 
superior  to  any  similar  productions  emanating  from  the  loom. 

GENTLEMEN'S  WAISTCOATS  AND  BRACES. — By  being  able  to 
perform  this  kind  of  work,  it  is  at  all  times  in  the  power  of  the 
fair  sex  to  offer  an  elegant  present  to  a  father,  husband,  or  brother, 
and  thus  to  increase  the  hallowed  pleasures  of  the  domestic  circle. 
This  reason  is  amply  sufficient  to  induce  our  lovely  countrywomen 
to  cultivate  this  department  of  fancy  needlework. 

WIRE-  WORK. — This  is  a  lovely  material  for  baskets,  and  va- 
rious kinds  of  ornamental  fabrications. 

WORKING  FIGURES. — This  delightful  application  of  the  needle 
may  be  rendered  subservient  to  numerous  useful  and  interesting 
purposes.  By  it  the  sister  arts  of  painting  and  design  may  be  ma- 
terially promoted :  the  scenes  of  former  days  may  be  delineated 
on  the  historic  canvas,  or  the  portrait  of  a  departed  friend  may  be 
placed  before  us,  as  when  blooming  in  all  the  living  lustre  of  an- 
gelic loveliness.  Let  this  portion  of  the  art  be  especially  and  as- 
sidously  cultivated. 

ARMORIAL  BEARINGS. — These  are  proper  for  screens,  and  may 
be  made  of  a  high  moral  utility,  by  exciting  in  the  minds  of  the 
young,  an  ardent  desire  to  become  acquainted  with  the  events  of 
history,  and  with  the  actions  and  principles  of  former  times. 

MOSAIC  WORK,  AND  PERFORATED  CARD. — These  are  used  for 
note  books,  ornamental  card  cases,  hand  screens,  book  marks  and 
a  variety  of  other  useful  purposes. 

BRAID  WORK. — The  application  of  this  kind  of  work  is  well 
known,  and  is  so  general,  that  no  particular  cases  need  be  pointed 
out. 

APPLIQUE. — This  is  very  elegant,  as  employed  for  table  covers, 


jjM 

90  LADIES'  WORK  TABLE  BOOK. 

sofas,  chairs,  &c. ;  indeed  it  always  looks  pretty,  and  to  whatever 
it  is  applied  it  has  a  pleasing  effect. 

STAR  PATTERNS,  are  proper  for  sofa  cushions,  bottle  stands,  01 
any  piece  of  work  that  is  small. 

MKDALLION  PATTERN. — Where  the  work  is  coarse,  or  large, 
these  may  be  introduced  with  good  effect ;  but  especial  attention 
must  be  paid  to  a  proper  combination  of  colors  and  shades . 


CHAPTER    XI. 

FANCY   NEEDLEWORK. 

SPECIAL  INSTRUCTIONS. 

INSTRUCTIONS  IN  GROUNDING. — Care  must  be  taken  in  ground- 
ing to  make  the  effect  of  contrast  very  conspicuous.  Thus,  if  you 
ground  in  dark  colors,  your  pattern  should  be  worked  in  shades  of 
a  light  and  lively  tint;  for  those  in  which  dark  shades  predomi- 
nate, a  light  ground  is  indispensible.  The  canvas  for  white 
grounding  should  be  white ;  and  if  for  dark  grounding,  a  striped 
fabric  is  employed.  The  stripes  will  sometimes  appear  through  the 
wool.  To  prevent  this  it  will  be  necessary  to  rub  over  the  sur- 
face with  a  little  Indian  ink  water  previous  to  commencing  work- 
ing, but  care  must  be  taken  not  to  let  the  mixture  run  into  the 
edges  of  the  work,  and  it  must  be  quite  diy  before  you  commence 
grounding.  A  camel's  hair  brush  is  best  for  this  purpose.  In 
working  in  cross  stitch,  it  is  best  to  do  so  on  the  slant,  working 
from  right  to  left  across  the  canvas,  and  then  back  again.  This 
is  preferable  to  crossing  each  stitch  as  you  proceed,  and  gives  an 
improved  appearance  to  the  work. 

If  you  work  in  tent  stitch,  work  straight,  or  your  performance 
will  be  uneven  when  taken  out  of  the  frame.  In  all  cases  begin 
to  go  round  from  the  centre,  and  work  outwards,  taking  care  to 
fasten  off  as  you  finish  with  each  needleful,  which  should  not  be 


92  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

too  long,  as  the  wool  is  liable  to  get  rough  and  soiled.  It  is  also 
necessary  to  have  them  irregular  as  to  length,  to  prevent  the  fasten- 
ings coming  together  which  they  will  be  apt  to  do  if  this  sugges- 
tion is  not  attended  to.  For  working  in  tent  stitch  with  single 
wool,  the  canvas  must  not  have  more  than  fourteen  threads  to  an 
inch ;  for  cross  stitch  you  must  have  a  canvas  not  coarser  than 
twenty-two  threads  to  an  inch ;  for  the  former,  you  will  for  every 
two  and  a  half  square  inches  require  a  skein  of  wool ;  in  the  lat- 
ter case  a  skein  will  cover  two  inches.  Following  this  calculation, 
you  can  easily  ascertain  the  quantity  of  wool  required  for  any 
piece  of  work ;  and  it  is  advisable  to  purchase  all  your  wool  at 
the  same  time,  otherwise  you  will  have  much  trouble  in  matching 
the  shades.  An  attention  to  these  instructions  will  soon  make 
you  a  proficient  in  the  grounding  department  of  the  art. 

WORKING  FIGURES. — This  is  at  once  one  of  the  most  difficult, 
and  at  the  same  time  one  of  the  most  pleasing  tasks  which  the 
votary  of  fancy  needlework  will  have  to  perform ;  they  generally 
produce  the  best  effect  when  worked  in  wool  and  silk,  with  a  ju- 
dicious mixture  of  gold  and  silver  beads.  The  hair  and  drapery 
should  be  worked  in  cross  stitch  ;  and  the  face,  neck,  and  hands, 
in  tent  stitch ;  working  four  of  the  latter  for  one  of  the  former. 
To  obtain  the  proper  tints  for  the  face,  &c.,  is  no  easy  task ;  but  it 
mint  be  carefully  attended  to,  as  almost  the  whole  beauty  of  the 
work  depends  upon  it.  The  shades  in  these  parts  of  the  figure 
must  be  extremely  close ;  indeed  upon  shading  of  the  features  the 
perfection  of  the  performance  mainly  depends.  The  drapery  also 
demands  considerable  care  :  the  shades  must  be  very  distinct,  par- 
ticularly the  lighter  ones  in  the  folds  of  the  dress;  and  the  back 
ground  should  be  subdued  as  much  as  possible,  that  a  proper 
prominence  may  be  given  to  the  figure :  this  object  will  be  aided 


LADIES     WORK-TABLE    BOOK.  93 

considerably  by  working  in  the  lighter  shades  in  silk  :  any  repre- 
sentation of  water  or  of  painted  glass,  should  be  worked  in  the 
same  material.  The  intention  of  the  fair  worker  sHould  be  to  give 
to  her  performance  as  near  an  approximation  to  oil  painting  as 
possible. 

RAISED  WORK. — This  should  be  done  with  German  wool,  as  it 
more  nearly  resembles  velvet.  For  working  flowers,  you  must 
have  two  meshes,  one-seventh  of  an  inch  in  width,  and  the  pat- 
tern must  be  worked  in  gobelin  stitch.  Be  careful  not  to  take  one 
mesh  out,  until  you  have  completed  the  next  row.  You  work 
across  the  flowers ;  and  in  order  to  save  an  unnecessary  waste  of 
time,  as  well  as  to  facilitate  your  work,  it  will  be  best  to  thread 
as  many  needles  as  you  require  shades,  taking  care  not  to  get  the 
various  shades  mixed  together.  This  is  more  needful,  as  you  can- 
not, as  in  cross  stitch,  finish  one  shade  before  commencing  an- 
other. When  the  pattern  is  worked,  cut  straight  across  each  row, 
with  a  pair  of  scissors  suitable  to  the  purpose,  and  shear  the  flower 
into  its  proper  form. 

For  working  animals  or  birds,  you  must  have  three  meshes  ; 
the,  first,  one  quarter  ;  and  the  third,  one  seventh  of  an  inch  :  the 
second  must  be  a  medium  between  these  two.  You  will  require 
the  largest  for  the  breast,  and  the  upper  parts  of  the  wings.  Cross 
stitch  maybe  employed  in  working  the  beak, or  feet, and  is  indeed 
preferable.  You  may  work  leaves,  either  in  cross  stitch  or  in 
gobelin  stitch,  as  taste  or  fancy  may  direct.  You  may  work  either 
from  a  drawing  on  canvas,  or  from  Berlin  pattern  ;  but  the  latter 
is  decidedly  to  be  preferred. 

WORKING  BERLIN  PATTERNS. — For  these  patterns,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  work  in  canvas,  of  eighteen  or  ten  threads  to  the  inch, 
according  as  you  may  desire  the  work  to  be  a  larger,  or  of  the 


94  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

same  size  as  the  pattern:  and, it  must  be  borne  in  mind, that  all  tht 
patterns  are  drawn  for  tent  stitch,  so  that  if  you  work  in  cross 
stitch,  and  \visn  to  have  it  the  same  size  as  the  pattern,  you  must 
count  twenty  stitches  on  the  canvas,  for  ten  on  the  paper.  The 
choice  of  colors,  for  these  patterns,  is  a  matter  of  essential  impor- 
tance as  the  transition  from  shade  to  shade,  if  sudden  and  abrupt, 
will  entirely  destroy  the  beauty  of  the  design.  A  natural  succes- 
sion of  tints,  softly  blending  into  each  other,  can,  alone  produce  the 
desired  effect.  In  working  flowers,  five  or  six  shades  will  be  re- 
quired :  in  a  rose,  or  other  large  flower,  six  shades  are  almost  in- 
dispensibJe  ;  of  these,  the  darkest  should  form  the  perfect  centre, 
then  the  next  (not  prominently,  though  perceptibly)  differing  from 
it,  and  the  next  four  to  the  lightest  tint ;  the  whole,  to  be  so  man- 
aged, as  to  give  to  the  flower  that  fulness,  and  distinctness,  which 
its  position  in  the  design  demands.  For  small  flowers,  so  many 
shades  are  rarely  necessary.  The  two  darkest  shades  should  be 
strong, the  others  soft;  this  secures  sufficiency  of  contrast, without 
impairing  that  harmony  of  tints,  which  is  so  indispensible.  You 
must  recollect,  that  for  work  done  in  tent  stitch,  a  greater  contrast 
of  shade  is  required,  than  for  that  done  in  cross  stitch.  This  re- 
mark should  never  be  lost  sight  of.  A  proper  attention  to  the 
shading  of  leaves,  is  indispensible  ;  the  kinds  of  green  required , 
for  this  purpose,  are  bright  grass  green,  for  a  rose  ;  Saxon  green, 
for  lilies,  convolvolus,  peonies,  &c.;  French  green,  for  iris,  marigold, 
narcissus,  &c. ;  and  for  poppies,  tulips,  &c. ;  a  willow  green,  which 
has  a  rather  bluer  tint  than  French  green  is  generally  ;  and  for 
leaves  which  stand  up  above  the  flowers,  or  near  them,  it  is  proper 
to  work  the  tips  in  a  very  light  green,  as  reflecting  the  rays  of 
light :  the  next  shade  should  be  four  times  darker,  or  three  at  the 
least ;  the  next  two  ;  then  the  fourth  shade,  two  darker  than  the 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  95 

third ;  and  the  fifth,  two  darker  than  the  fourth :  take  care  that  the 
veins  of  leaves  be  distinctly  marked,  and  those  which  are  in  the 
shade  should  be  darker  than  those  upon  which  the  light  falls  ;  and 
if  of  a  color  having  a  bluish  tint,  a  few  worked  in  olive  green  will 
have  a  fine  effect.  The  stalks  of  roses,  &c.,  should  be  worked  in 
olive  brown  or  a  very  dark  green.  White  flowers  are  often  spoilt, 
by  being  worked  of  too  dark  a  shade  ;  if  you  do  not  work  with 
silk,  you  may  obtain  two  distinct  shades  of  white,  by  using  Mo- 
ravian cotton  and  white  wool  ;  these  combined  with  three  shades 
of  light  stone  color — the  second  two  shades  darker  than  the  first, 
and  the  third  darker  than  the  second,  in  the  same  proportions — 
will  produce  a  beautiful  white  flower,  which  if  properly  shaded, 
by  leaves  of  the  proper  tints,  will  have  a  most  beautiful  appear- 
ance. The  lighter  parts  of  all  flowers,  in  Berlin  patterns,  may  be 
worked  in  silk ;  and  in  many  cases  that  is  a  decided  improvement ; 
but  it  should  never  be  introduced  in  the  leaves  ;  here  it  would  be 
out  of  place.  We  again  repeat, beware  of  servile  copying:  try  to 
engage  your  own  judgment  in  this  work,  and,  remember,  that  to 
become  used  to  think  and  to  discriminate,  is  one  of  the  most  valu- 
able acquisitions  that  a  young  lady  can  attain. 

We  have  now,  we  trust,  placed  before  the  young  student  of 
fancy  needlework,  such  plain  directions,  in  all  things  essential  to 
the  art,  as  cannot  fail,  if  a  proper  degree  of  thought  and  attention  is 
bestowed  upon  them,  to  make  her  a  proficient  in  this  delightful 
employment.  With  one  or  two  additional  remarks,  we  will  con- 
clude this  portion  of  our  labors.  The  young  votary  of  the  needle 
must  recollect  that,  if  she  allows  her  fondness  for  this  accomplish- 
ment to  draw  oft"  her  attention  from  the  more  serious  or  useful 
business  of  life,  she  will  act  decidedly  wrong  and  had  far  better 
never  learn  it  at  all.  Another  thing  to  be  especially  guarded  against, 


96  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

is,  not  to  devote  too  much  time  to  this,  or  any  other  engagement, 
at  once  ;  the  mind  and  body  are  both  injured,  to  a  serious  extent, 
by  dwelling  too  long  on  a  single  object.  Let  it  never  for  a  moment 
be  forgotten,  relaxation  and  exercise  are  indispensible,  if  you  wish 
to  enjoy  good  health,  or  an  even  and  pleasant  temper.  Again, 
take  care  that  you  never  become  so  absorbed  in  the  object  of  your 
pursuit,  as  to  allow  it  to  interfere  with  the  calls  of  friendship, 
benevolence,  or  duty.  The  young  lady  who  can  forget  her  moral 
and  domestic  duties,  in  the  fascinations  of  the  embroidery  frame, 
gives  but  little  promise  of  excellence,  in  the  more  advanced  stages 
of  life. 

Let  neatness,  and  order,  characterize  all  your  arrangements. 

Cut  your  silks  and  wools  into  proper  lengths,  and  fold  them  in 
paper,  writing  the  color  on  each,  and  numbering  them  according  to 
their  shades,  1,  2,  3,  &c.,  beginning  with  the  darkest. 

Dispose  all  your  materials  so  as  to  come  at  them  without  trouble 
or  incovenience,and  use  every  possible  care  to  prevent  your  work 
from  being  spoiled  in  the  performance. 

We  advise  every  young  lady  to  pay  particular  attention  to  paint- 
ing and  design  ;  and  to  render  every  accomplishment  subservient 
to  some  high  and  moral  development  of  the  heart,  and  of  the 
character. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

KNITTING. 

, 

EXPLANATION   OF   STITCHES. 

BEFORE  entering  upon  the  immediate  subject  of*this  chapter,  we 
wish  to  make  a  few  remarks ;  whiOT,  we^nt,  will  be  acceptable 
to  our  fair  readers. 

The  art  of  knitting  is  supposed  to  have  been  invented  by  the 
Spanish  ;  and  would  doubtless  form,  in  connection  with  needle- 
work, an  agreeable  relaxation,  amid  the  stiff  formality  and  unvary- 
ing mechanical  movements  which  made  up,  for  the  most  part,  the 
lives  of  the  ancient  female  nobility  of  that  peninsula.  The  Scotch 
also  lay  claim  to  the  invention,  but  we  think  upon  no  sufficient 
authority.  Knitted  silk-hose  were  first  worn  in  England  by  Henry 
VIII.,  and  we  are  told  that  a  present  of  a  pair  of  long  knitted  silk 
stockings,  of  Spanish  manufacture,  was  presented  to  the  young 
prince  (Edward VI.),  by  Sir  Thomas  Gresham,and  was  graciously 
received,  as  a  gift  of  some  importance.  Clumsy  and  unsightly 
cloth-hose  had  been  previously  worn :  and,  though  we  are  told  by 
Howel,  that  Queen  Elizabeth  was  presented  with  a  pair  of  black 
knitted  silk  stockings,  by  Mistress  Montague, her  silk-woman,  yet 
her  maids  of  honor  were  not  allowed  to  wear  an  article  of  dress, 
which  her  royal  pride  deemed  only  suited  to  regal  magnificence. 
We  believe  the  first  pair  of  knitted  stockings,  ever  made  in  Eng- 


98  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

land,  were  the  production  of  one  William  Rider,  an  apprentice, 
residing  on  London  Bridge ;  who,  havinj^ccidentally  seen  a  pair 
of  knitted  worsted  stockings,  while  detSHn^^ome  business,  at 
the  house  of  one  of  the  Italian  merchants,  made  it  pair  of  a  similar 
kind,  which  he  presented  to  the  Earl  of  Pembroke,  1564.  The 
stocking-frame  was  the  invention  of  Mr.  W.  Lee.,  M-  A  ,  who 
had  been  expelled  from  Cambridge,  for  marrying,  in  contravention 
to  the  statutes  of  the  university.  Himself  and  his  wife,  it  seems, 
were  reduced  to  the  necessity  of  depending  upon  the  skill  of  the- 
latter,  in  the  art  of  knitting,  for  their  subsistence ;  and  as  necessity 
is  the  parent  of  invention,  Mr.  Lee,  by  carefully  watching  the 
motion  of  the  needl^^vas  enabled, in  1589,  to  invent  the  stocking- 
frame  ;  which  has  ^£n  the  soiAe  of  much  advantage  to  others, 
though  there  is  reason  to  believe  the  contrivance  was  of  little  ser- 
vice to  the  original  proprietor.  Since  its  first  intoduction, knitting 
has  been  applied  to  a  vast  variety  of  purposes,  and.  has  been  im- 
proved to  an  extent  almost  beyond  belief.  It  has  furnished  to  the 
blind, the  indigent, and  almost  destitute  Irish  cottage  girl,  the  means 
pleasure  and  profit  at  the  same  time.  Many  ladies,  including  some 
in  the  rank  of  royalty,  have  employed  their  hours  of  leisure  in 
the  fabrication  of  articles,  the  produce  of  which  have  gone  to  the 
funds  of  charity,  and  have  tendered  to  the  alleviation  of  at  least 
some  of 

"  The  numerous  ills  that  flesh  is  heir  to ;" 

and  amongst  those,  the  labors  of  the  Hon.  Mrs.  Wingfield,  upon 
the  estates  of  Lord  de  Vesci,  in  Ireland,  ought  not  to  be  forgotten. 
To  CAST  ON  THE  LOOPS  OR  STITCHES. — Take  the  material  in 
the  right  hand,  and  twist  it  round  the  little  finger,  bring  it  under 
the  next  two,  and  pass  it  over  the  fore  finger.  Then  take  the  end 
in  the  left  hand,  (holding  the  needle  in  the  right,)  wrap  it  round 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  99 

the  little  finger,  and  thence  bring  it  over  the  thumb,  and  round  the 
two  fore  fingers.  By  this  process  the  young  learner  will  find  that 
she  has  formed  a  loop :  she  must  then  bring  the  needle  under  the 
lower  thread  of  the  material,  and  above  that  which  is  over  the  fore 
finger  of  the  right  hand  under  the  needle,  which  must  be  brought 
down  through  the  loop,  and  the  thread  which  is  in  the  left  hand, 
being  drawn  tight,  completes  the  operation.  This  process  must 
be  lepeatea  as  many  times  as  there  are  stitches  cast  on. 

KNITTING  STITCH. — The  needle  must  be  put  through  the  cast- 
on  stitch,  and  the  material  turned  over  it,  which  is  to  be  taken  up, 
and  the  under  loop,  or  stitch,  is  to  be  let  off.  This  is  called  plain 
stitch,  and  is  to  be  continued  until  one  round  is  completed. 

PEARL  STITCH  — Called  also  seam,  ribbed,  and  turn  stitch,  is 
formed  by  knitting  with  the  material-  before  the  needle ;  and  in- 
stead of  bringing  the  needle  over  the  upper  thread,  it  is  brought 
under  it. 

To  RIB,  is  to  knit  plain  and  pearled  stitches  alternately.    ThreaAr 
plain,  and  three  pearled,  is  generally  the  rule. 

To  CAST  OVER. — This  means  bringing  the  material  round  the 
needle,  forward. 

NARROWING. — This  is  to  decrease  the  number  of  stitches  by 
knitting  two  together,  so  as  to  form  only  one  loop. 

RAISING. — This  is  to  increase  the  number  of  stitches,  and  is  ef- 
fected by  knitting  one  stitch  as  usual,  and  then  omitting  to  slip 
out  the  left  hand  needle,  and  to  pass  the  material  forward  and  form 
a  second  stitch,  puttuig  the  needle  under  the  stitch.  Care  must 
be  taken  to  put  the  thread  back  when  the  additional  stitch  is  fin- 
ished. 

To  SEAM. — Knit  a  pearl  stitch  every  alternate  row. 

A  Row,  means  the  stitches  from  one  end  of  the  needle  to  the 


100  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

other ;  and  a  ROUND,  the  whole  of  the  stitches  on  two,  three,  or 
more  needles.  NOTK,  in  cas  tingon  a  stocking,  there  must  always 
be  an  odd  stitch  cast  on  for  the  seam. 

To  BRING  THE  THREAD  FORWARD,  means  to  pass  it  between 
the  needles  toward  the  person  of  the  operator. 

A  LOOP  STITCH,  is  made  by  passing  the  thread  before  the 
needle.  In  knitting  the  succeeding  loop,  it  will  take  its  proper 
place. 

A  SLIP  STITCH,  is  made  by  passing  it  from  one  needle  to  an- 
other without  knitting  it. 

To  FASTEN  ON. — This  term  refers  to  fastening  the  end  of  the 
material,  when  it  is  necessary  to  do  so  during  the  progress  of  the 
work.  The  best  way  is  to  place  the  two  ends  contrarywise  to 
each  other,  and  knit  a  few  stitches  with  both. 

To  CAST  OFF. — This  is  done  by  knitting  two  stitches,  passing 
the  first  over  the  second,  and  so  proceeding  to  the  last  stitch,  which 
kis  to  be  made  secure  by  passing  thread  through  it. 

WELTS,  are  rounds  of  alternate  plain  and  ribbed  stitches,  done 
at  the  top  of  stockings,  and  are  designed  to  prevent  their  twisting 
or  curling  up. 

Sometimes  knitting  is  done  in  rows  of  plain  and  pearl  stitches, 
or  in  a  variety  of  neat  and  fanciful  patterns.  Scarcely  any  kind 
of  work  is  susceptible  of  so  much  variety,  or  can  be  applied  to  so 
many  ornamental  fabrics  or  uses  in  domestic  economy.  The  fair 
votary  of  this  art  must  be  careful  neither  to  knit  too  tight  or  too 
loose.  A  medium,  which  will  soon  be  acquired  by  care  and  prac- 
tice, is  the  best,  and  shows  the  various  kinds  of  work  to  the  best 
advantage.  The  young  lady  should  take  care  to  preserve  her 
needles  entirely  free  from  rust,  and  to  handle  the  materials  of  her 
work  with  as  delicate  a  touch  as  possible. 


LADIES5^  WORK-TABLE    BOOK.  101 

Having  thus  given  instructions  in  the  common  rudiments  of  this 
useful  art,  we  proceed  to  give  plain  directions  for  some  of  the  most 
beautiful. 

FANCY   STITCHES   IN   KNITTIN0. 


BEE'S  STITCH. — In  knitting  a  purse  in  this  stitch,  you  must 
cast  the  loops  on  three  needles,  having  twenty  on  each.  The 
two  first  rows  in  plain  knitting.  The  third  is  thus  worked. 
Having  brought  the  silk  in  front,  a  stitch  is  to  be  slipped,  and  you 
knit  the  next,  pulling  the  one  you  slipped  over  it;  you  knit  the 
next,  and  the  succeeding  one  is  pearled ;  proceed  in  this  manner 
for  one  round.  The  next  round  you  knit  plain ;  the  next  is  to  be 
executed  like  the  third.  Proceed  thus  in  alternate  rounds,  and 
you  can  introduce  two  colors,  highly  contrasted,  knitting  six  or 
eight  rounds  of  each. 

BERLIN  WIRE  STITCH. — The  stitches  cast  on  must  be  an  even 
number.  Knit  three,  four,  or  five  plain  rows.  Then  begin  the 
work  by  taking  off  the  first  stitch,  knit  one  stitch,  knit  off  tv/o 
stitches  together,  and  make  a  stitch;  repeat  this  process  to  the 
end  of  the  row ;  the  next  row  is  to  be  knitted  plain,  and  so  on 
alternately. 

This  work  may  be  done  either  with  large  pins  and  lamb's  wool, 
if  it  be  intended  for  shawls,  &c.,  or  with  fine  needles  and  thread, 
in  which  case  it  forms  a  beautiful  kind  of  insertion  work  for  frocks, 
capes,  collars,  and  other  articles  of  dress.  If  it  is  intended  for  in- 
sertion work,  the  number  of  stitches  cast  on  are  eight,  and  one 
pattern  is  formed  by  each  four  stitches. 

COMMON  PLAIT. — This  is  employed  for  muffatees,  coverlets, 
and  various  other  articles.  You  cast  on  the  stitches  in  threes : 


102  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

the  number  is  unlimited.  Knit  one  row  plain,  then  proceed  as  fol- 
lows. Row  first,  three  plain  stitches  and  three  pearled.  Second 
row  the  same,  taking  care  to  begin  where  the  last  is  finished,  that 
is,  if  you  ended  with  plain  stitches,  you  begin  with  the  pearled. 
Proceed  in  the  same  way  with  the  third  row,  and  you  will  have 
a  succession  of  squares,  of  inside  and  outside  knitting,  alternately. 
The  fourth  row  is  to  be  begun  with  the  same  kind  of  stitches  as 
completed  the  first  row ;  continue  as  before,  and  the  work  will  be 
in  squares,  like  those  of  a  chess  board.  This  stitch  is  extremely 
pretty. 

CHAIN  STITCH. — The  number  of  loops  to  be  cast  on  is  thirteen. 
Knit  the  first  two  rows  plain,  and  in  beginning  the  third,  knit  three 
plain  stitches,  and  bring  the  material  in  front,  then  pearl  seven 
stitches ;  the  material  is  then  to  be  turned  back,  and  you  knit  the 
other  three  stiches  plain.  The  next  row  is  plain  knitting,  and 
then  you  proceed  as  in  the  third  row,  and  so  on  alternately,  until 
you  have  completed  sixteen  rows.  You  then  knit  three  stitches 
plain,  and  take  off  the  four  succeeding  ones  upon  a  spare  pin. 
The  next  three  stitches  from  behind  the  pin,  are  to  be  knitted  so 
as  to  miss  it  completely,  and  the  mateiial  is  to  be  drawn  so  tight, 
as  that  tbe  pins  may  be  connected  together  as  closely  as  possible. 
This  done  you  knit  the  four  stitches  of  the  third  pin,  which  com- 
pletes the  twist  The  remaining  three  stitches  are  then  to  be  knit- 
ted, and  a  fresh  link  begun,  by  knitting  three  stitches,  pearling 
seven,  knitting  three,  and  so  proceeding  for  sixteen  rows,  when 
another  twist  is  to  be  made. 

CROW'S-FOOT  STITCH. — This  stitch  may  be  worked  in  two 
ways.  If  it  be  for  a  shawl,  begin  at  the  corner,  and  raise  at  the 
beginning  and  end  of  each  row. 

In  the  other  method,  you  cast  on  any  number  of  stitches  that 


LADIES     WORK-TABLE    BOOK.  103 

can  be  divided  by  three,  and  you  must  cast  on  one  additional  for 
the  commencement.  You  knit  the  first  row  plain  and  then  pro- 
ceed according  to  the  following  directions :  First,  knit  a  stitch. 
Second,  make  a  stitch.  Third,  slip  the  next.  Fourth,  knit  two 
stitches  together.  Fifth,  put  the  stitch  you  slipped  over  the  two 
last  knitted ;  this  is  to  be  repeated,  with  the  exception  of  the  first 
knitted  stitch,  to  the  end  of  the  row.  The  next  row  is  composed 
entirely  of  pearled  stitches.  This  stitch  is  neat  and  elegant. 

DOUBLE  KNITTING. — Of  this  stitch  there  are  three  kinds,  now 
in  general  use.  In  executing  them  proceed  as  follows.  Having 
cast  on  any  even  number  of  stitches,  knit  a  few  rows  in  plain 
knitting ;  then,  for  the  double  stitch,  begin  the  row  by  knitting  a 
stitch,  and  pass  the  material  in  front,  between  the  knitting  pins. 
Then  a  stitch  is  to  be  taken  off,  being  careful  to  put  the  needle  in- 
side the  loop,  and  to  pass  the  material  back  again.  You  then  knit 
another  stitch,  and  so  proceed  to  the  end  of  the  row. 

For  the  second  kind  of  double  knitting,  you  cast  on  an  even 
number  of  stitches,  as  before,  and  the  first  stitch  is  knitted  plain ; 
the  material  being  put  twice  over  the  pin.  Then,  as  in  the  first 
kind,  pass  the  material  between  the  needles  ;  a  stitch  is  to  be^  slip- 
ped, and  the  material  passed  again  behind.  This  process  is  re- 
peated in  every  stitch  to  the  end  of  the  row.  In  the  next  row, 
you  reverse  the  work,  knitting  the  stitches  that  were  before  slip- 
ped, and  slipping  the  knitted  ones.  The  third  kind  is  very  simple, 
and  can  be  done  quicker  than  the  others.  It  is  worked  on  the 
wrong  side,  and  when  completed  must  be  turned  inside  out ;  hence 
it  is  necessary  to  knit  plain  at  the  sides  or  ends.  The  number  of 
stitches  must  be  even,  as  in  the  previous  methods  No  plain  row 
is  needed ;  but  you  commence  by  putting  the  material  in  front  of 
the  pins,  and  being  careful  to  keep  it  constantly  in  that  position. 


104  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

Turn  the  first  stitch,  take  off  the  second,  and  so  on  alternately,  till 
the  row  is  finished. 

DUTCH  COMMON  KNITTING. — This  is  the  common  knitting  stitch, 
performed  in  a  more  expeditious  manner  than  that  in  general  prac- 
tised. The  needle  filled  with  stitches,  is  held  in  the  left  hand,  and 
the  material  also,  which  is  to  be  wrapped  round  the  little  finger  once 
or  twice.  It  passes  to  the  needles  over  the  fore  finger.  To  form 
the  loop  on  the  needle  held  in  the  right  hand,  it  is  only  necessary 
to  put  it  into  the  stitch  from  behind,  and  knit  off  by  putting  the 
material  round  the  needle. 

EMBOSSED  DIAMOND. — You  cast  on  any  number  of  stitches 
which  can  be  divided  by  seven.  The  first  row  is  plain  :  for  the 
second,  pearl  one  stitch,  knit  five,  and  pearl  two ;  thus  proceed,  al- 
ternately, to  complete  the  row :  for  the  third,  knit  two,  pearl  three, 
and  knit  four,  and  so  proceed.  The  fourth  row  you  pearl  three, 
knit  one,  and  pearl  six,  alternately.  The  fifth  row  is  plain  knitting. 
The  next  row  you  pearl  two,  knit  two,  pearl  five,  and  so  on  to  the 
end.  Next  knit  two,  pearl  four  and  knit  three,  alternately.  Next 
knit  six,  and  pearl  one,  successively.  Reverse  the  next,  pearling 
six,  and  knitting  one.  Then  in  the  succeeding  row,  knit  five  and 
pearl  three,  and  knit  four  in  succession.  Next  knit  three,  pearl 
two,  and  knit  five,  alternately.  The  succeeding  row  is  plain. 

EMBOSSED  HEXAGON  STITCH. — You  can  work  with  any  number 
of  stitches,  you  choose,  which  can  be  divided  by  six.  The  first 
row  is  plain,  the  next  pearled  throughout ;  the  third  row  is  plain. 
For  the  first  knit  four  stitches,  and  slip  two  at  the  end ;  then  pearl 
a  row,  taking  careto  slip  the  stitches  that  were  slipped  before. 
Next  knit  a  row  slipping  the  two  stitches  as  before.  The  next 
row  is  pearled  still  slipping  the  two  stitches.  The  succeeding  two 
rows  are  knitted  and  pearled  like  the  others,  and  the  two  stitches 


LADIKS'    WORK-TABLE    BOOK.  105 

are  still  to  be  slipped.  The  next  row  is  pearled,  and  you  take  up 
all  the  stitches;  then  a  row  is  to  be  knitted  plain,  and  a  row  pearled, 
which  completes  the  pattern.  In  beginning  the  next  pattern,  you 
pearl  a  row,  slipping  the  fifth  and  sixth  stitches,  so  that  they  shall 
be  exactly  in  the  centre  of  the  previously  worked  pattern ;  you 
then  proceed  as  before. 

ELASTIC  RIB. — This  as  its  name  implies,  is  the  proper  stitch 
for  garters,  or  any  kind  of  an  article  which  is  wanted  to  fit  easily 
yet  firmly.  You  are  to  set  on  any  number  of  loops  you  please, 
and  knit  one  row  plain;  the  next  is  pearled, the  two  next  are  plain; 
then  one  pearled,  and  so  on  alternately  to  the  end. 

FANTAIL  STITCH. — The  application  of  this  stitch  is  in  the  pre- 
paration of  mitts,  gloves,  &c.,  and  sometimes  it  is  used  for  purses, 
in  which  it  looks  extremely  pretty.  The  material  generally  em- 
ployed is  cotton,  and  you  begin  by  setting  on  any  even  number  of 
stitches  you  require.  A  loop  is  made,  by  throwing  the  cotton  over 
the  pin ;  you  then  knit  a  loop,  and  make  and  knit  alternately  ; 
each  of  the  two  last  are  knitted  plain,  and  you  narrow  the  com- 
mencement and  conclusion  of  each  row,  at  the  second  and  third 
loops,  until  you  have  reduced  it  to  the  number  originally  cast  on. 
The  usual  number  of  stitches  cast  on  is  fourteen. 

FuEiNCH  STITCH. — You  set  on  the  loops  in  lours,  and  must  have 
two  over.  The  first  stitch  is  pearled,  then  turn  the  thread  back, 
and  knit  two  stitches  together.  Form  a  new  stitch  by  bringing 
the  thread  in  front,  and  knit  a  stitch ;  the  thread  is  again  to  be 
brought  in  front,  and  the  last  stitch  pearled,  which  completes  the 
pattern.  The  next  row  is  begun  in  a  similar  manner,  the  thread 
is  turned  back,  two  stitches  are  knitted  together  at  the  end,  the 
thread  is  turned,  and  you  knit  the  last  stitch. 

GERMAN  KNITTING. — You  cast  on  twenty-one  stitches,  and  pro- 


106  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

ceed  as  follows.  First  row,  the  material  is  to  be  passed  forward, 
one  stitch  slipped,  then  knit  one,  and  pass  the  slipped  one  over; 
three  stitches  are  then  to  be  knitted,  and  two  taken  as  one ;  again 
pass  the  material  forward,  and  knit  one  stitch.  Second  row,  the 
same,  except  that  when  in  the  first  you  knitted  three  stitches,  knit 
one ;  and  when  one,  you  knit  three.  For  the  third  row,  you  pass 
the  material  as  before,  and  slip  one  stitch,  then  two  are  taken  as 
one,  and  the  slipped  one  is  passed  over  again ;  repeat  this,  except 
that  in  taking  two  stitches  together,  you  knit  one,  and  pass  the 
slipped  one  over ;  finish  by  knitting  two  stitches. 

HONEYCOMB  STITCH. — This  is  also  often  used  for  shawls.  It 
is  knitted  as  follows.  You  knit  the  first  stitch,  and  pass  the  other 
to  make  a  loop  over  the  needle.  Two  stitches  are  then  knitted 
together, and  you  thus  continue  making  the  loops,  and  kniting  two 
stitches  together,  until  you  have  completed  the  row.  You  knit 
every  second  row  thus;  the  alternate  ones  plain. 

HERRING-BONE  BAG  STITCH. — You  cast  on  the  stitches  by  fours, 
and  the  material  used  is  silk.  Knit  two  plain  stitches,  and  then 
make  a  large  one,  by  turning  the  silk  twice  over  the  needle ;  after 
which,  knit  two  stitches  together,  and  repeat  this,  until  you  have 
completed  the  work. 

IMITATION  NET -WORK  STITCH. — You  set  on  any  number  of 
stitches  you  please,  but  you  must  have  no  odd  ones.  The  first 
row  is  plain  knitting.  The  next  row  you  commence  by  bringing 
the  wool  upon  the  first  pin,  and  twisting  it  round  it  by  bringing  it 
over  from  behind,  and  putting  it  behind  again.  You  are  then  to 
knit  two  loops  together,  and  the  pin  must  be  put  first  into  the  one 
nearest  to  you,  and  the  wool  is  to  be  twisted  round  the  pin  as  be 
fore.  Then  again,  knit  two  together,  and  so  on  to  the  end.  Each 
row  is  done  in  the  same  manner. 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  107 

KNIT  HERRING-BONE  STITCH. — Any  number  of  stitches  you 
please  may  be  cast  on,  observing  to  have  three  for  each  pattern, 
and  one  over  at  each  end.  The  first  row  must  be  plain :  then,  in 
beginning  the  second,  take  off  the  first  stitch,  and  knit  two  together 
in  pearl  stitch.  Next  make  one,  by  passing  the  material  before, 
and  knitting  one,  pearl  two  stitches  together,  and  make  and  knit  a 
stitch  as  before.  Every  row  is  the  same. 

LACE  WAVE  STITCH. — The  number  of  stitches  must  be  even. 
The  first  stitch  is  to  be  slipped ;  then  knit  one,  and  make  one,  by 
casting  the  material  over  the  pin.  Narrow,  by  knitting  two  stitches 
together,  and  again  knit  a  stitch ;  then  make  one,  and  again  nar- 
row ;  and  so  on  till  you  complete  the  row.  The  next  row  is  done 
plain.  The  third  row  is  as  follows :  two  stitches  knitted  plain ; 
make  one  stitch,  and  narrow  two  in  one ;  then  knit  one  stitch ; 
make  and  narrow,  as  before  to  the  end;  then  knit  a  row  plain. 
For  the  fifth  row,  knit  three  siitches  plain,  and  thus  proceed  as  in 
the  third  row.  The  sixth  row  is  done  plain  ;  and  the  seventh  one 
commences  by  knitting  four  stitches  plain,  and  then  proceeding  as 
before.  The  eighth  row  is  plain ;  and  the  ninth  is  begun  by  knit- 
ting five  plain  stitches,  and  proceed  as  above ;  then  knit  two  rows 
plain,  and  the  pattern  is  complete.  This  can  be  continued  to  any 
length  required. 

Moss1  STITCH. — This  is  easily  done.  Cast  on  any  even  number 
of  loops,  and  for  the  first  row,  the  first  loop  is  slipped,  the  mate- 
rial brought  in  front ;  the  stitch  is  pearled,  and  repeat  so  to  the 
end.  The  next  row  is  so  worked,  that  the  stitches  knit  in  the 
proceeding  row,  must  be  pearled  in  this. 

OPEN  HEM. — The  number  of  stitches  is  unlimited,  but  they  must 
be  capable  of  being  divided  by  four.  At  the  beginning  of  each  row 
you  slip  the  first  stitch,  and  knit  the  second.  Then  make  a  stitch 


108  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

by  putting  the  cotton  over  the  pin ;  knit  two  loops  together ;  knit 
one  stitch,  make  a  stitch,  and  so  proceed.  You  must  have  very 
fine  pins  and  sewing  cotton. 

OPEN  CROSS  STITCH. — This  is  done  in  the  following  manner. 
Two  colors  are  to  be  employed,  and  the  first  row  of  each  is  done 
in  pearl  stitch.  In  working  the  second  row  of  each,  the  follow- 
ing is  the  order  of  procedure :  first,  knit  a  stitch :  second,  make  a 
stitch ;  third,  slip  one ;  fourth,  two  are  to  be  knitted  together,  and 
the  one  slipped  is  to  be  drawn  over  the  knitted  ones;  thus  you 
proceed  to  the  end  of  the  row.  The  two  next  are  to  be  com- 
menced with  the  other  color ;  and  thus  you  work  two  rows  with 
each  color,  successively.  The  fresh  color  is  always  to  cross  from 
beneath  the  last  one,  or  otherwise  a  hole  would  be  left  in  the 
work.  In  the  making  of  shawls,  this  stitch  is  often  adopted,  and 
it  looks  well,  but,  of  course,  requires  to  be  bordered  with  some 
other  pattern. 

ORNAMENTAL  LADDER  STITCH. — The  stitches  are  to  be  set  on 
in  elevens.  Commence  by  knitting  two  stitches  plain,  then  knit 
two  together,  and  repeat  the  same,  drawing  the  first  loop  over  the 
second ;  proceed  thus  to  the  end.  Commence  the  second  row  by 
pearling  two  stitches ;  pass  the  material  over  the  pin  twice  ;  again 
pearl  two  stitches,  and  so  proceed  to  the  end.  In  the  next  row 
knit  two ;  pass  the  material  round  the  pin  twice,  knit  two,  and 
so  continue.  Thus  you  proceed  with  alternate  rows  of  knitted 
and  pettrled  stitches,  being  careful  to  slip  the  stitches  made  by 
throwing  the  material  round  the  pin,  without  knitting  them. 

PINE  APPLE  STITCH. — For  a  bag  you  must  cast  on  thirty-six 
loops  on  three  needles,  and  proceed  thus :  First  row,  knit  one 
plain,  raise  one  by  throwing  the  silk  over  the  pin,  knit  one  plain, 
then  raise,  knit  two  plain,  you  knit  the  next  two  together,  driwing 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  109 

the  last  loop  over  the  first ;  you  will  then  have  six  loops.  In  the 
second  row,  knit  the  first  raised  loop,  then  raise,  knit  the  next  one 
plain,  then  raise,  knit  plain  till  you  come  to  the  next  raising,  and 
omit  knitting  the  two  together  as  in  the  first  row.  Third  row,  you 
knit  plain  to  the  raising,  and  then  proceed  as  in  the  first  row.  You 
knit  the  fourth  as  the  second ;  and  so  proceed  alternately,  until 
you  have  twelve  rows.  Then  in  the  stitches  you  had  previously 
narrowed,  you  must  raise,  and  introduce  a  bead  upon  each  plain 
loop,  with  a  thread,  and  again  raise.  Where  you  had  previously 
raised,  you  must  narrow  with  the  bead  you  have  upon  the  silk. 
In  this  manner  proceed  raising  and  narrowing  alternately,  until 
you  have  twelve  rows  as  before.  You  then  reverse,  and  again 
work  as  in  the  first  part  of  the  pattern. 

PLAIN  OPEN  STITCH. — The  stitches  set  on  must  be  an  even 
number.  The  two  first  rows  are  plain.  Then  commence  the  third 
row,  by  knitting  one  stitch ;  pass  the  material  in  front,  and  form 
a  new  stitch,  by  knitting  two  together.  This  is  to  be  repeated, 
until  you  come  to  the  last  stitch,  which  must  be  knit.  Then  knit 
two  plain  rows  and  proceed  as  before. 

PORCUPINE  STITCH. — This  is  proper  for  a  purse,  and  when 
properly  executed,  is  extremely  pretty.  You  cast  on,  upon  each 
of  three  needles,  thirty-six  loops,  and  knit  one  plain  round.  For 
the  next,  you  knit  four  stitches :  and,  having  brought  the  silk  for- 
ward, knit  one  loop :  this  will  form  the  middle  stitch  cf  the  pat- 
tern. Then,  again  bringing  the  silk  forward,  knit  fourteen  stitches ; 
after  which,  slip  one,  and  leaving  the  under  part,  knit  two  together, 
and  draw  the  stitches,  last  slipped,  over  it.  Then  knit  four  stitches, 
as  at  the  commencement,  and  so  proceed  for  six  rounds,  increasing 
before  and  after  each  middle  stitch.  You  knit  till  within  one  of 
where  you  decreased.  The  stitch  thus  left  is  to  be  slipped,  and 


110  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

you  then  knit  two  together,  and  draw  the  slipped  loop  over  it. 
You  are  then  to  knit  one  plain  round,  and  the  next  row  is  also 
plain,  except  the  loops  which  are  over  the  middle  stitches,  where 
you  are  to  insert  a  head,  hy  cringing  it  through  the  stitches.  You 
next  knit  around  plain,  and  must  be  careful  to  keep  the  beads  on 
the  outside  of  the  purse,  or  rather  in  the  inside  while  knitting,  as 
this  purse  is  done  the  wrong  side  out.  You  are  to  knit,  until  you 
come  within  one  loop  of  the  bead',  which  must  be  slipped,  and  you 
knit  the  next  two  together.  You  are  then  to  increase  six  rounds 
on  each  side  of  the  stitch  decreased  as  in  the  proceeding  pattern, 
which  will  make  that  the  middle  or  bead  stitch.  The  material 
should  be  done  in  middle  sized  purse  silk,  on  needles,  No.  18. 

ROUGH-CAST  STITCH. — Any  odd  number  of  stitches  may  be 
cast  on.  Each  row  is  begun  with  a  plain  stitch,  and  the  others 
are  plain  and  pearled  alternately.  This  is  very  suitable  for  bor- 
ders, as  it  is  firm  and  looks  neat. 

WAVE  KNITTING. — This  is  proper  for  a  pin-cushion,  and  looks 
extremely  neat.  Commence  by  casting  on  seventy-nine  loops. 
Then  proceed  as  follows.  First  row,  knit  four  loops  plain,  pearl 
one,  knit  nine  plain,  and  repeat  to  the  end  of  the  row,  finishing 
with  four  plain  loops.  Commence  the  second  row  with  three 
pearled  stitches,  knit  three  plain,  pearl  seven,  repeat  as  before. 
Third  row,  knit  two  plain,  pearl  five,  knit  five  plain,  repeat. 
Fourth  row,  pearl  one,  knit  seven  plain,  pearl  three,  repeat.  Fifth 
row,  pearl  nine,  knit  one  plain,  pearl  nine,  and  repeat  to  the  end. 
This  finishes  the  pattern. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

KNITTING. 

EXAMPLES   IN   KNITTINO. 

A  BIROCHE. — The  stitch  is  very  simple.  You  bring  the  wool 
forward,  slip  one,  and  knit  two  together..  This  elegant  cushion 
is  made  up  of  sixteen  narrow  rows,  and  sixteen  broad  stripes, 
M  hich  decrease  gradually  toward  the  centre.  It  may  be  made  in 
double  German  wool,  or  other  material,  -with  No.  19  ivory  or 
wooden  pins.  Cast  on  ninety  stitches,  and  knit  two  turns ;  then 
in  gold  color  three  turns,  and  again  two  in  black :  this  forms  the 
narrow  stripe.  Then  form  the  broad  stripe  thus :  knit  two  stitches, 
and  turn  ;  then  knit  two  of  the  black,  and  turn;  this  must  be  con- 
tinued, taking  every  time  two  additional  stitches  of  the  black,  un- 
til you  are  within  two  stitches  of  the  top,  and  then  turn.  You 
will  now  find  the  wool  has  descsnded  to  the  wide  part  of  the 
stripe.  You  then  again  commence  a  narrow  stripe,  and  so  go  on, 
until  the  whole  is  completed.  When  the  last  wide  stripe  is  fin- 
ished, knit  it  to  the  first  narrow  stripe,  and  make  up  the  biroche 
in  any  manner  you  please. 

A  BABY'S  CAP. — Cast  on  240  stitches,  on  three  pins ;  knit 
twelve  rounds,  and  be  sure  you  pearl  every  alternate  stitch :  in 
the  succeeding  round  you  must  pearl  the  stitches  which  were  left 
plain  in  the  preceeding  ones.  Then  take  in  eighty  stitches,  namely; 


112  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

one  at  every  fourth,  which  will  form  a  full  border;  then  proceed 
to  knit  the  cap  thus :  one  row  plain,  the  next  open,  then  three 
plain,  and  twenty-four  double  knitting ;  again  knit  three  rows  plain, 
one  open,  repeat  the  three  plain  rows,  again  repeat  the  double 
knitting,  and  the  plain  and  open  rows  as  before ;  you  next  pro- 
ceed to  form  the  hinder  part  of  the  cap,  by  casting  on  twenty-four 
stitches  at  each  end  of  the  pins ;  knit  forty-eight  rows  of  double 
knitting,  take  in  to  the  size  of  the  crown,  and  knit  three  rows 
plain,  one  open,  and  repeat  the  three  plain  rows ;  then  fasten  off 
at  top,  unite  the  open  space  at  the  back,  and  repeat  the  plain  and 
open  rows  as  before.  You  form  the  crown,  by  casting  on  sixteen 
loops;  then  increase  a  loop  at  each  end,  for  sixteen  rows;  then 
knit  sixteen,  and  decrease  as  you  increased,  and  thus  the  circle 
becomes  regularly  formed. 

BABY'S  HOOD. — Use  No.  18  needles,  and  double  German  wool; 
cast  on  fifty  stitches,  and  knit  eighty  rows  plain ;  roll  up  sixty,  to 
form  the  front.  Three  inches  of  the  cast  off  part  are  to  be  sewed 
together,  and  the  rest  is  to  be  drawn  up  for  the  crov/n.  Then 
cast  on  fifty  stitches  to  form  the  foundation  of  the  hood,  and  knit 
forty  rows  plain.  Line  with  white  silk,  and  trim  v/ith  satin 
ribbon. 

BABY'S  SHOE. — Work  with  two  colors,  in  stripes.  You  cast 
on  twenty-eight  stitches,  in  blue,  and  knit  one  row  plain  ;  then 
knit  a  plain  row  in  white,  adding  one  stitch  at  the  end  to  form  the 
heel,  and  turn  ;  then  a  similar  row  in  blue,  to  increase  and  turn, 
repeat  this  without  increasing,  and  changing  the  colors  each  time, 
until  you  have  ten  stripes.  Then  knit  one  row  in  blue,  and  turn, 
casting  off  seventeen  stitches.  You  begin  from  the  heel.  The 
remaining  thirteen  stitches  are  knitted  with  white  ;  turn ;  knit  a 
row  with  blue;  turn:  and  so  continue, until  you  have  five  rows  o 


LADIES     WORK-TABLE    BOOK.  113 

one  color,  and  four  of  the  other.  The  thirteen  stitches  are  then 
to  be  done  in  blue,  and  seventeen  to  correspond,  are  to  be  added ; 
turn  :  this  side  is  finished  like  the  other,  decreasing  from  the  heel. 
You  then  sew  up  the  heel  and  toe,  so  as  to  form  a  shoe.  You  are 
then,  with  four  needles,  to  pick  up  the  stitches  round  the  ancle  and 
fore  foot,  putting  an  equal  number  upon  each  of  the  three  needles, 
and  knit  five  rows  plain ;  make  a  stitch  by  bringing  the  wool  for- 
ward, then  slip  one  ;  knit  the  next  two,  and  pass  the  slip-stitch 
over  them ;  again  bring  the  wool  forward,  and  repeat  the  process 
for  one  round:  knit  eighteen  rows, five  plain, four  pearled;  repeat 
and  finish,  bringing  the  wool  forward,  knitting  two  together;  then 
knit  two  rows  plain,  and  cast  off.  You  must  use  No.14  needles, 
and  double  German  wool. 

A  BKAUTIFUL  FRINGE  AND  BORDER. — This  can  be  applied  to 
a  variety  of  useful  purposes.  It  is  executed  as  follows.  The 
number  of  stitches  must  be  even,  and  of  any  depth  you  deem  de- 
sirable. Begin,  by  making  a  stitch,  laying  the  material  over  the 
needle ;  put  it  through  two  loops,  and  knit  them  as  one ;  repeat  to 
the  end  of  the  row ;  thus  continue  to  knit  as  many  rows  as  you 
please,  and  when  the  stripe  is  of  sufficient  length,  fasten  off,  letting 
from  four  to  ten  stitches  fall  off  the  needle  to  unravel  for  the 
fringe. 

A  COMFORTER. — On  a  moderate  sized  pin, cast  on  forty  stitches; 
and  in  knitting,  carry  the  wool  twice  round  the  pin  for  each  stitch; 
The  comforter  is  to  be  done  in  double  knitting,  and  may  be  finished 
with  a  fringe  and  border  at  the  end.  Without  the  fringe,  you  will 
require  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  six-thread  untwisted  lamb's  wool ; 
for  the  fringe  a  little  more  will  be  required. 

ANOTHER  COMFORTER. — You  are  to  cast  on  thirty  stitches,  and 
knit  plain  sixty-four  ribs,  knitting  them  backwards  and  forwards ; 


114  LADIES'  WOIIK-TABLE  BOOK. 

then  take  twenty-two  stitches  from  the  middle  of  the  side,  and  you 
will  have  twenty-one  left  one  each  end.  Form  a  chest-piece,  by 
knitting  as  before,  twenty-two  ribs,  and  fasten  off:  you  have  only 
to  sew  up  the  end,  and  it  is  done. 

ZEPHYR. — This  is  a  light  shawl  for  a  baby,  and  may  be  made 
either  of  a  half-handkerchief  form,  or  a  square.  Cast  on  about 
130  loops,  and  knit  in  French  or  honey-comb  stitch,  which  you 
like;  or  any  other  pretty  pattern  you  prefer,  as  embossed  hexagon, 
&c.  You  may  add  a  fringe  and  borber,  which  gives  to  the  zephyr 
a  rich  and  finished  appearance. 

AN  OVER-SHOE. — These  are  useful  to  wear  in  th«  house,  or  to 
slip  over  a  satin  shoe,  when  occasion  requires.  The  number  of 
stitches  to  be  cast  on  is  thirty-four.  Knit  a  square,  plain,  which 
is  to  be  doubled,  and  sewn  up  on  one  side,  to  the  heel;  then  sew 
up  three  inches  for  the  instep,  and  form  the  toe  by  puckering  in 
the  end. 

A  KNITTED 'MUFF,  IN  IMITATION  OF  SABLE. — You  cast  on 
seventy  or  eighty  stitches.  Knit  the  first  three  rows  plain ;  then, 
for  the  fourth  row,  bring  the  wool  forward,  and  taking  two  stitches 
at  the  back,  knit  them  ;  repeat  to  the  end :  these  four  must  be  re- 
peated, until  the  piece  is  about  half  a  yard  long,  taking  care  that 
the  shading  is  as  correct  as  possible.  You  must  here  use  No.  19 
needles,  and  double  German  wool.  The  shades  required  are  four, 
and  you  begin  with  the  lightest,  proceeding  to  the  darkest,  and  then 
reversing  them.  The  muff  must  be  stuffed,  and  lined  with  silk. 

A  STRONG  KNITTED  PURSE. — Any  number  of  stitches,  that  can 
be  divided  by  three,  will  do.  First  and  third  row  :  The  wool  is 
to  be  brought  forward,  then  slip  one,  knit  two,  and  pass  over  them 
the  slip  stitch ;  repeat  second  and  fourth  row  plain.  Third  and 
fifth  row :  knit  two,  before  commencing  the  pattern ;  the  holes 


LADIES'  WOKK-TABLE  BOOK.  115 

will  then  fall  in  a  diagonal  direction :  It  will  require  to  be  well 
stretched. 

BAREGE  KNITTING,  FOR  SHAWLS. — In  this  kind  of  work,  you 
commence  with  any  number  of  stitches  you  require :  and,  after 
knitting  one  row  plain,  you  begin  the  second,  by  knitting  three 
stiches ;  then,  bring  the  wool  forward,  and  knit  three  together, 
taking  them  off  at  the  back ;  again  you  bring  the  wool  forward, 
and  knit  three,  as  before.  The  third  row  is  pearled ;  and  the  fourth 
is  the  second  repeated,  only  beginning  by  knitting  three  stitches 
together.  Fifth  row,  the  same  as  the  third ;  and  thus  proceed  ^with 
any  number  of  rows  you  choose.  You  may  introduce  any  patterns 
in  flowers,  &c.,  you  may  desire,  by  breaking  off  the  ground  color, 
and  fastening  on  that  which  is  designed  for  the  pattern,  by  means 
of  a  slip  knot,  made  at  the  end  of  the  wool.  All  flowers,  &c., 
must  be  done  in  plain  knitting. 

CHECKED  PATTERNS. — Any  number  of  stitches  maybe  cast  on, 
that  can  be  divided  by  six.  Then  knit  the  first  three  rows  three 
pearl  stitches,  and  three  plain ;  second  three  rows,  knit  three  stitches 
plain, and  three  pearl.  This  pattern  maybe  worked  for  children's 
socks,  bags,  mats,  (if  done  in  coarse  materials,)  &c. 

CLOSE  STITCH,  FOR  A  WAISTCOAT. — This  is  to  be  done  in  two 
colors,  and  cast  on  any  odd  number  of  stitches.  First  and  fifth 
row, with  one  color;  knit  one, and  slip  one, in  succession.  Second 
and  sixth  row,  with  the  same  color ;  knit  one,  bring  the  wool  for- 
ward, and  slip  one  ;  pass  the  wool  back,  knit  one,  repeat.  The 
third  is  the  first  reversed,  and  the  fourth  is  worked  exactly  as  the 
second,  omitting  the  first  stitch. 

PINE  APPLE  PURSE. — The  material  is  purse  twist,  and  you  will 
require  two  colors ;  one  skein  of  green,  and  one  and  a  half  of 
orange.  Cast  on  159  stitches,  and  proceed  as  follows.  Knit  the 


116  LADIES'  WORK  TABLE  BOOK. 

first  row,  and  turn  it,  then  knit  two  rows,  and  again  turn.  To 
have  ten  points  you  must  narrow  and  widen  alternately  every 
seven  stitches.  Proceed  in  this  way  with  the  green  twist  for  fifteen 
rounds ;  then  with  the  orange  knit  one  plain  row  and  turn,  knit 
seven  rows  as  before,  knit  one  plain  row  and  turn,  then  reverse  the 
narrowings,  so  as  to  take  up  the  loops  at  the  beginning  of  ever? 
row  of  points,  and  make  a  loop  on  each  side  :  you  are  to  have 
eight  rows  of  points.  You  make  no  loops  in  the  second  row,  but 
having  counted  when  you  have  finished  the  points,  you  seam  in 
the  first  row  of  green  and  reverse  the  narrowings  without  taking 
up  the  loops, proceed  to  knit  twelve  rows;  after  which, you  must 
narrow  until  you  have  but  four  loops  on  each  pin,  then  knit  the 
stalks,  and  narrow  off. 

STAR,  WITH  EIGHT  POINTS. — This  is  proper  for  the  bottom  of 
a  bag  or  purse.  In  working  it,  proceed  according  to  the  following 
directions.  You  work  with  five  needles,  on  each  of  four  of  which 
you  cast  on  two  stitches,  eight  in  whole,  knit  one  plain  round.  Then, 
first  row,  raise,  knit  one,  raise,  knit  one,  and  put  on  one  bead  at 
every  knitted  loop.  Second  row,  you  knit  a  plain  round.  Third 
row,  laise,  knit  two  plain,  raise,  two  plain ;  the  raising  is  at  the 
beginning  and  middle  of  each  needle ;  and  you  thus  proceed,  until 
you  have  fifty  beads  on  a  needle,  for  a  bag,  and  eighteen  for  a 
purse.  To  take  off  the  points,  proceed  as  follows :  first  row,  raise 
one,  knit  one,  raise  one,  slip  one  off  needle  as  in  knitting,  knit  one, 
and  draw  the  one  not  knitted  over  it;  knit  plain, and  put  on  beads 
until  you  come  to  the  middle  of  the  needle ;  thus  proceed  with 
each  pin,  and  the  star  will  be  completed. 

KNEE  CAPS. — You  commence  with  casting  on  eleven  loops, and 
knitting  eight  rounds ;  then  begin  to  raise  every  alternate  round 
until  you  have  forty-seven  loops  on  the  pins,  knit  eleven  rounds 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  117 

i 

plain,  and  then  narrow  until  you  have  reduced  the  loops  to  eleven. 
Takeoff! 

KNITTING  FOOTING. — The  material  is  fine  cotton,  and  you  cast 
eleven  stitches.  Knit  one  row  plain.  Second  row,  knit  one,  make 
one,  knit  two  together,  knit  three  plain,  make  one,  knit  two  together 
knit  three  plain.  Third  row,  is  the  second  row  reversed ;  the 
fourth  is  the  same  as  the  second;  and  you  thus  proceed  with  each 
row,  alternately,  for  any  length  you  please.  A  bag  knitted  the 
same  way,  and  put  over  blue  or  crimson  silk,  looks  extremely 
handsome.  The  material  for  a  bag  is  fine  worstedfand  you  may 
cast  on  any  number  of  stitches  that  can  be  divided  by  eleven,  taking 
care  to  have  one  additional  stitch  for  each  twenty-two ;  that  is,  for 
four  elevens,  cast  on  forty-six. 

DOUBLE  NIGHTCAP. — You  will  find  five  needles  are  required. 
You  must  cast  on  two  stitches  on  each  of  four  needles,  and  in  the 
first  row  increase  two,  and  in  the  second  one  plain  stitch  in  each. 
In  the  third  row,  the  centre  stitch  on  each  needle  must  be  seamed, 
and  you  must  increase  on  each  side  of  it  every  other  row,  until 
you  have  attained  the  width  required.  You  then  knit  the  fourth 
and  every  succeeding  row  plain,  until  the  cap  is  of  a  sufficient 
length,  say  twenty-four  to  twenty-eight  inches,  then  decrease  the 
first  row,  and  make  the  other  end  to  correspond  with  the  one  first 
knitted. 

DOTTED  KNITTING,  FOR  BABY'S  SHOES,  &c. — Cast  on  and  knit 
as  many  rows  as  you  desire,  knitting  one  stitch  plain,  and  the  next 
pearled.  Begin  every  other  row  with  a  pearled  stitch.  An  odd 
number  of  stitches  are  required,  and  No.  8  needles. 

KNITTED  FRINGE. — This  may  be  made  of  any  material  deemed 
most  suitable  for  the  purposes  to  which  it  is  to  be  applied.  Cast 
on  eight  stitches.  First  knit  two,  then  make  one  by  bringing  the 


118  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

cotton  round  the  needle,  and  knitting  it  when  it  ouccurs  in  the 
next  row;  then  knit  two  stitches  together,  knit  one, make  one  as 
before,  knit  two  together,  knit  eight,  and  so  proceed  to  the  end  of 
the  row.  When  you  have  knitted  as  many  rows  as  you  require, 
cast  off  five  stitches  and  leave  three,  to  he  unravelled,  for  the  fringe. 
They  may  he  knitted  in  two  or  more  colors,  taking  care  to  knit 
them  in  equal  spaces;  that  is, with  an  equal  number  of  stitches  in 
each  color. 

GENTLEMAN'S  TRAVELLING  CAP. — You  first  cast  on  an  e*Ten 
number  of  stitohes,  and  thus  proceed ;  the  first  row  is  plain ;  then 
slip  off  the  first  stitch  in  each  row,  and  make  one,  by  bringing  the 
material  in  front ;  then  slip  a  stitch  the  contrary  way,  knit  the  next, 
and  so  proceed  to  the  end  of  the  row :  you  commence  the  next  by 
slipping  a  stitch  as  before  ;  then  knit  two  stitches  together  to  the 
last, which  is  to  be  knitted  plain:  repeat  these  rows  alternately. 

HERRING-BONE  PURSE. — The  number  of  stitches  must  be  so  as 
to  be  divided  by  four.  The  silk  is  to  be  brought  forward,  then 
slip  one,  knit  one,  and  bring  the  slip  stitch  over  it.  Knit  one, 
again  bring  the  silk  forward,  pearl  one,  and  so  repeat.  This 
purse  should  be  knitted  with  second  sized  netting  silk,  No.  13. 

HALF  HANDKERCHIEF. — This  is  extremely  pretty,  when  prop- 
erly executed.  Begin  with  one  stitch  to  form  the  point,  and  knit 
as  many  rows,  increasing  one  each  row  as  is  required  to  give  you 
seven  loops  upon  the  pin.  You  must  increase  always  at  the  same 
end :  then  commence  the  pattern.  Make  one  stitch,  slip  one,  and 
knit  two  stitches  together,  putting  the  slipped  stitch  over  the  two 
knitted  as  one.  Repeat  this  until  you  have  got  to  four  stitches  from 
the  end ;  then  again  make  a  stitch,  and  knit  the  remainder  plain. 
The  next  row  is  to  be  done  in  pearl  stitch,  and  the  succeeding 
one  as  the  first  pattern.  Every  row  of  pearl  stitch  must  be  in- 


•  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  119 

creased  one,  and  the  three  last  stitches  are  to  be  knitted  plain. 
This  handkerchief  must  be  one  yard  and  a  quarter  long  on  the 
straight  side.  When  completed,  fasten  off. 

HABIT  SHIRT. — These  are  worn  under  a  shawl,  and  are  ex- 
tremely comfortable :  they  protect  the  chest  from  cold.  The  ma- 
terial most  proper  for  them  is  floss  wool,  and  they  should  be  knit- 
ted with  steel  pins.  You  knit  the  front  first,  and  begin  by  casting 
on  as  many  loops  as  will  form  the  length  required.  As  it  is  ne- 
cessary that  one  end  should  be  a  good  deal  more  sloped  than  the 
other,  you  must  be  careful  to  increase  at  the  end  most  sloped,  at 
each  end  of  the  row ;  but  at  the  other,  you  are  only  to  increase  at 
the  end,  and  not  at  the  beginning :  having  knitted  one  of  the  fronts, 
knit  the  other  to  match  it",  and  then  begin  the  back.  Commence 
at  the  bottom,  or  narrow  part  of  the  waist,  and  increase  at  each 
end  of  every  row,  until  it  is  wide  enough  to  reach  from  one  shoul- 
der to  the  other,  and  then  decrease  at  both  ends  of  each  row  for 
the  neck.  You  then  finish  the  centre  stitches,  and  knit  up  first  on 
one  side  and  then  the  other,  decreasing  each  row,  until  a  proper 
hollow  is  obtained.  You  then  knit  the  collar  straight,  and  of  any 
depth  you  please.  Make  up,  by  sewing  the  various  parts  together, 
and  set  on  a  ribbon  to  the  back,  to  tie  round  the  waist,  and  an- 
other to  secure  it  at  the  throat. 

HARLEQUIN  QUILT,  WITH  TUCKS. — This  is  done  in  double 
knitting  stitch,  with  six  threads  fleecy.  The  pieces  are  six  inches 
square.  Each  square  consists  of  about  24  stitches,  and  they  are 
to  be  sewn  together  with  a  tuft  of  wool,  black  or  white,  at  each 
corner.  The  square  should  be  knitted  in  at  least  three  colors,  in- 
cluding white ;  in  a  quilt  one  yard  and  a  half  square,  there  will  be 
225  pieces,  1 13  of  which  should  be  white.  Make  the  tufts  as  fol- 
lows: wind  four-thread  fleecy  about  12  times  round  a  grooved 


120  LADIES'  WOEK-TABLE  BOOK. 

wooden  mesh,  one  inch  in  width :  then  slip  a  coarse  thread  in  the 
groove,  and  tie  the  wool  quite  tight,  but  taking  care  that  an  end 
is  left  to  it,  which  can  be  drawn  through  and  fastened  to  the  quilt. 
The  loops  of  wool  are  to  be  cut  through  on  the  other  side  of  the 
mesh  ;  after  which  it  is  to  be  combed  and  dressed  as  neatly  as 
possible. 

PATTERN  FOR  A  LIGHT  SCARF  — Cast  on  the  number  of  stitches 
required  upon  No.  18  needles,  and  any  kind  of  material  you 
choose ;  three-threads  fleecy  is  generaly  preferred.  Knit  one  plain 
stitch,  then  two  together,  and  so  on  alternately,  to  the  end  of  the 
row :  each  succeeding  one  is  but  a  repetition  of  the  first :  it  may 
be  done  in  stripes,  with  various  colors. 

PLAIN  KNITTED  MUFFATEES. — For  these  you  will  require  four 
needles.  On  three  of  these  cast  on  an  equal  number  of  stitches, 
according  to  the  size  required,  and  knit  each  round  three  pearl  and 
three  plain :  finish  with  one  plain  and  two  pearl  rows. 

STOCKINGS. — Cast  on  first  size  73,  second  85,  third  91,  fourth 
99,  fifth  109,  sixth  133.  Then  knit  rounds  to  the  commencement 
of  the  narrowings,  40,  52,  54,  56,  60,  and  74,  respectively,  accor- 
ding to  the  sizes  given  above.  The  narrowings  in  the  leg  are  ac- 
cording to  the  size,  8,  10,  12,  13,  14,  and  21.  After  which  you 
knit  18,  20,  25,  27,  30,  or  45  rounds  to  the  heel,  which  is  to 
be  formed  in  the  following  manner.  The  stitches  are  to  be  divided 
in  half,  taking  care  to  have  the  seam  stitch  for  the  middle,  and 
the  heel  is  to  be  knitted  in  alternate  turns  of  plain  and  pearled 
stitches.  The  length,  of  course,  varies  in  proportion  to  the  size, 
being  12  turns  for  the  first  and  second,  13  for  the  third,  14  for  the 
fourth,  15  for  the  fifth,  and  20  for  the  sixth.  The  heel  is  finished 
by  knitting  the  nine  middle  stitches  in  rows,  the  same  as  the  heel, 
and  taking  up  one  of  the  others  with  the  last  loop  of  each  row, 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  121 

till  all  is  taken  off  There  will  thus  be  nine  stitches  when  the 
heel  is  finished.  Having  got  thus  far,  you  proceed  to  form  the 
foot  as  follows.  You  take  up  sixteen  on  each  side  of  the  heel, 
in  the  second  row,  and  taking  them  up,  you  make  a  seam  on  each 
side  of  the  instep,  knitting  another  stitch  in  the  loop  under  the 
first  and  last,  which  prevents  holes  in  the  corners,  that  would 
otherwise  occur.  Then  narrow  every  second  round  on  the  heel 
sides  of  the  seam  until  the  number  of  stitches  are  the  same  as 
those  in  the  instep,  or  what  is  commonly  called  the  fore  foot  nee- 
dle. You  will  have  for  the  instep  28,  32,  34,  40,  or  46,  as  the 
case  may  be  ;  and  the  rounds  between  the  heel  and  toe  narrow- 
ings,  will  be  14,  18,  23,  26,  30,  and  34,  respectively;  and  the 
narrowings  for  the  feet  will  be  6,  8,  8,  8,  9,  and  10,  on  each  side, 
according  to  the  measurement  given.  You  begin  the  toe  by  nar- 
rowing double  at  the  seams,  leaving  only  the  seam  stitch  between, 
and  narrowing  twice  with  three,  and  twice  with  two  rounds  left 
between  each  narrowing:  then  narrow  twice,  leaving  but  one 
round  between,  and  then  every  round  until  sixteen  stitches  only 
are  left.  Finish  by  putting  the  two  needles  having  stitches  on 
them  together.  And  when  two  stitches  are  done  in  this  manner, 
cast  them  off,  the  first  over  the  last,  until  the  whole  is  taken  off 
the  needles.  It  should  be  noted,  that  the  stitches  in  the  heel  vary 
with  the  size  of  the  stocking,  and  are  as  follows :  first  size  29, 
second  33,  third  33,  fourth  37,  fifth  41,  and  sixth  45. 

Some  workers  take  off  the  heel,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  toe 
is  here  directed  to  he  finished. 

OPEN-WORK  STOCKINGS. — On  each  needle  cast  on  52  stitches 
with  fine  cotton,  knit  the  welts  and  raise  one  stitch  for  the  seam. 
When  you  arrive  at  the  narrowings,  narrow  every  eighth  row, 
and  when  you  have  38  stitches  on  each  needle,  cease,  and  knit 


122  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

until  the  article  is  completed ;  then  take  half  the  stitches  to  form 
the  heel,  knit  23  loops,  and  narrow  on  each  side  of  the  seam  for 
three  rows.  In  forming  the  heel,  narrow  every  row  once  the 
fourth  loop  from  the  seam,  and  then  the  loops  must  be  taken  up, 
the  end  one  as  close  as  possible.  Take  three  stitches  from  each 
side  of  the  fore  foot  needle  to  the  other,  and  knit  a  round  plain ; 
after  which,  widen  every  fifth  stitch  on  both  sides  of  the  heel. 
Alternate  rows  of  the  heel  needles  are  then  to  be  narrowed  until 
only  36  loops  remain  on  each.  The  stitches  to  be  narrowed  are 
the  fifth  and  sixth  from  the  ends.  Knit  the  feet  of  a  proper  length, 
and  then  narrow  at  the  ends  of  the  needles  every  other  row,  until 
only  ten  remain  on  each ;  narrow  every  row  until  you  have  only 
three,  which  you  cast  off  in  the  usual  manner.  The  open  pattern 
is  produced  by  knitting  every  fifth  round  thus :  take  two  stitches 
in  one,  and  bring  the  cotton  in  front  of  the  needle,  that  it  may  form 
a  stitch  before  taking  the  succeeding  two  into  one.  The  more 
open  you  desire  the  work  to  be,  the  fewer  stitches  and  the  finer 
needles  you  will  require. 

A  NIGHT  STOCKING. — This  is  easily  done :  cast  on  54  stitches 
on  large  needles,  and  pearl  every  other  stich,  narrowing  gradually 
toward  the  end. 

SOCKS. — These  are  very  useful  articles,  and  are  easy  of  execu- 
tion. In  the  first  size  there  are  49  stitches,  in  the  second  55,  and 
in  the  third  85 ;  they  have  16, 23,  or  24  turns  to  the  heel,  in  which 
there  are  25,  29,  or  43  stitches,  as  the  size  may  require.  The  in- 
step has  24,  25,  or  42  stitches;  and  the  length  of  the  heel  is  10, 
12,  or  14  turns.  The  length  of  the  foot  between  the  narrowings, 
is  10,  15,  and  28  rounds. 

CORNER  FOR  A  SHAWL. — This,  if  propeily  executed,  according 
to  the  directions,  looks  extremely  handsome.  Begin  by  casting 


LADIES     WORK-TABLE    BOOK.  123 

on  two  loops,  to  form  the  point ;  knit  them,  and  proceed  as  fol- 
lows.    First  row,  make  a  loop,  knit  the  two  original  ones  to- 
gether, make  a  loop ;  you  will  then  have  three  loops  upon  the 
pin ;  knit  four  additional  rows  in  plain  and  pearled  alternately,  in- 
creasing a  stitch  at  the  beginning  and  end  of  each  row,  and  then 
on  the  fifth  row  you  will  have  eleven  stitches.      In  the  next  row 
commence  the  pattern  thus.  Sixth  row  hegin  with  six  plain  stitches, 
pearl  one,  knit  six  plain.     Seventh  row  plain  knitting.     Eighth 
row,  knit  six  plain,  pearl  one,  knit  two  together,  pearl  one,  knit 
two  together,  pearl  one,  knit  six  plain.    Ninth  row  plain.  Tenth, 
Knit  six  plain,  pass  the  material  in  front  to  make  a  stitch,  knit 
two  together,  again  make  a  stitch,  pearl  three,  make  a  stitch,  knit 
two  together,  make  a  stitch,  knit  six  plain.     Eleventh  row  plain 
Twelfth,  knit  six  plain,  knit  two  together,  make  a  stitch,  pearl 
three,  make  a  stitch,  knit  two  together,  make  a  siitch,  pearl  three, 
make  a  stitch,  knit  two  together,  knit  six  plain.     Thirteenth  row 
plain.      Fourteenth,  knit  six  plain,  pearl  three,  knit  two  together, 
make  a  stitch,  pearl  three,  knit  two  together,  pearl  three,  make  a 
stitch,  knit  two  togteher,  pearl  three,  knit  six  plain.      Fifteenth 
row  plain.      Sixteenth,  knit  six  plain,  knit  two  together,  make  a 
stitch,  pearl  three,  make  a  stitch,  knit  two  together,  make  a  stitch, 
pearl  five,  make  a  stitch,  knit  two  together,  make  a  stitch,  pearl 
three,  make  a  stitch,  knit  two  together,  knit  six  plain.      Seven- 
teenth row  plain.     Eighteenth,  six  plain,  pearl  three,  knit  two  to- 
gether, make  a  stitch,  knit  two  together,  make  a  stitch,  pearl  three, 
knit  five  plain,  pearl  three,  make  a  stitch,  knit  two  together,  make 
a  stitch,  knit  two  together,  pearl  three,  knit  six  plain.     Nineteenth 
row  plain.     Twentieth,  knit  six  plain,  knit  two  together,  pearl 
three,  knit  two  together,  make  a  stitch,  pearl  four,  make  a  stitch, 
knit  two  together,  make  a  stitch,  pearl  three,  make  a  stitch,  knit 


124  LADIES'  WORK-TARLE  BOOK. 

two  together,  make  a  stitch,  pearl  four,  make  a  stitch,  knit  two 
together,  pearl  three,  knit  two  together,  knit  six  plain.  The 
twenty-first  row  is  plain,  and  you  then  decrease  as  you  increased, 
knitting  the  twenty-second  row  as  the  twentieth,  and  so  proceed 
until  you  have  two  loops  on  the  pin.  The  square  is  then  com- 
plete. 

BORDER  FOR  THE  SHAWL. — Having  finished  the  corner,  pick 
up  the  twenty-one  stitches  on  one  side,  and  knit  one  row  plain  ; 
the  second  row,  knit  two  plain,  three  pearled,  three  plain,  again 
pearl  three,  then  three  plain,  pearl  three,  knit  four  plain.  The 
third  row  knit  plain ;  the  fourth  row,  pearl  one  stitch,  knit  one, 
pearl  one,  knit  two  together,  make  a  stitch,  pearl  three  together, 
knit  one,  pearl  one,  knit  two  together,  make  a  stitch,  pearl  four, 
knit  four  plain.  Fifth  row  plain.  Sixth  row  knit  one,  pearl  one, 
knit  one,  pearl  one,  knit  two  together,  make  a  stitch,  pearl  three, 
knit  one,  pearl  one,  knit  one,  pearl  one,  knit  two  together,  make 
a  stitch,  knit  six  plain.  Seventh  row  plain.  Eighth  row,  same 
as  the  sixth.  Ninth  plain.  Tenth  as  the  fourth.  Eleventh  plain. 
Twelfth  as  the  second,  repeat  the  first  three  rows,  and  re-com- 
mence the  pattern.  The  shawl  must  he  knitted  on  the  same  sized 
pins  as  the  horder  and  corner,  and  must  have  as  many  loops  as 
there  are  stitches  in  the  length  of  the  border.  The  horder  and 
corner  may  be  done  in  two  colors,  which  must  harmonize  well 
with  each  other,  and  form  a  good  contrast  to  the  shawl  itself. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

NETTING. 

EXPLANATION   OF     STITCHES. 

NETTING  is  another  employment,  to  which  the  attention  of  the 
fair  has  been  directed  from  the  remotest  times.  Specimens  of 
Egyptian  network,  performed  three  thousand  years  since,  are 
still  in  existence ;  and,  from  that  time,  the  art,  in  connection  with 
that  of  spinning  flax,  was  there  carried  to  its  highest  state  of  per- 
fection. With  these  specimens,  are  preserved  some  of  the  nee- 
dles anciently  used  in  netting.  They  are  to  be  found  in  one  of 
the  museums  at  Berlin.  The  Egyptian  nets  were  made  of  flax, 
and  were  so  fine  and  delicate,  that  according  to  Pliny,  "  they 
could  pass  through  a  small  ring,  and  a  single  person  could  carry 
a  sufficient  number  of  them  to  surround  a  whole  wood.  Julius 
Lupus,  while  governor  of  Egypt,  had  some  of  these  nets,  each 
string  of  which  consisted  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  threads."  But 
even  this  fineness  was  far  exceeded  by  the  thread  of  a  linen  corslet, 
presented  by  Amasis,  king  of  Egypt,  to  the  Rhodians,  the  thieads 
of  which,  as  we  learn  from  the  same  authority,  were  each  com- 
posed of  three  hundred  and  sixty-five  fibres.  Herodotus  also 
mentions  a  corslet  of  a  similar  texture. 


120  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

In  connection  with  other  elegant  female  accomplishments,  net- 
ting has  continued  to  claim  the  attention  of  the  ladies  of  Europe,  in 
every  advanced  state  of  civilization,  and,  in  the  present  day,  is  cul- 
tivated with  considerable  success.  Netting  v/is  a  favorite  employ- 
ment of  the  late  Queen  Charlotte,  during  the  latter  years  of  her 
life. 

PLAIN  NETTING. — Take  the  mesh  in  the  left  hand,  (having  pre- 
viously made  a  long  loop  with  twine,  and 
fixed  it  to  any  convenient  support,)  between 
the  two  first  fingers  and  the  thumb.  The 
netting  needle  must  be  threaded  with  the  ma- 
terial, and  fastened  by  a  knot  to  the  long 
loop  before  spoken  of,  and  the  mesh  must  be  held  up  as  close  as 
possible  to  this  knot  under  the  twine.  The  silk  is  to  be  held  in 
the  right  hand  between  the  fore  finger  and  the  thumb  and  must  be 
passed  under  and  around  the  left  hand,  so  that  the  material  may 
be  formed  into  a  slack  loop,  passing  over  all  the  fingers,  except 
the  little  one.  In  this  position,  the  silk  must  be  held  between  the 
upper  side  of  the  mesh  and  the  left-hand  thumb,  and  the  needle 
must  be  passed  back,  round  the  pin  or  mesh,  allowing  the  material 
to  form  a  larger  loop,  so  as  to  include  the  little  finger.  The  nee- 
dle will  thus  be  brought  round, in  front  of  the  mesh,  and  must  pass 
under  the  first  loop,  between  the  mesh  and  the  fingers,  and  thus 
through  the  loop  called  the  foundation  loop,  and  thence  over  that 
portion  of  the  material  which  goes  backward  for  the  purpose  of 
forming  the  second  loop.  The  needle  must  be  kept  in  its  position, 
till  the  right  hand  is  so  brought  round  as  to  be  able  to  pull  it 
through,  and  then  the  needle  being  drawn  out  and  held  in  the 
right  hand,  the  worker  must  disengage  all  the  fingers  of  the  left 
except  the  last,  which  is  to  retain  its  hold  of  the  second  loop,  which 


LADIES     WORK-TABLE    BOOK.  127 

was  formed  by  passing  the  material  round  it.  By  means  of  this 
hold,  retained  by  the  little  finger,  the  material  is  to  be  drawn  to  the 
mesh,  and  the  knot  thus  formed  be  drawn  tight  to  the  foundation. 
This  process  is  to  be  repeated,  until  a  sufficient  number  of  stitches 
are  formed  as  are  necessary,  according  to  the  width  of  the  net  de- 
sired. As  the  mesh  is  filled,  some  of  the  loops  must  be  suffered 
to  drop  off ;  and  when  the  row  is  completed,  it  must  be  drawn 
out,  and  a  row  of  loops  will  be  found  suspended  from  the  foun- 
dation by  their  respective  knots,  and  moving  freely  onwards.  The 
work  is  then  to  be  turned  over,  which  will  cause  the  ends  of  the 
rows  to  be  reversed ;  and  in  netting  a  second  row,  it  will  be  done 
as  before  from  left  to  right.  In  commencing  the  second,  and  all 
the  succeeding  rows,  the  mesh  must  be  so  placed  as  to  come  up 
close  to  the  bottom  of  the  preceeding  row  or  loops,  and  the  former 
process  with  the  needle  must  be  repeated.  It  will  be  needful,  to 
have  a  sufficient  quantity  of  material  always  wound  on  the  needle, 
or  otherwise  it  will  not  move  freely  round,  as  it  is  indispensible 
it  should  do. 

BEAD  STITCH. — To  execute  this  stitch  properly,  requires  care, 
but  it  is  very  ornamental.  Beads  of  all  kinds  ,may  be  introduced. 
In  order  to  net  with  beads,  you  must  procure  a  long  taper  darning 
needle :  the  stitch  is  as  follows ;  string  a  bead  upon  the  thread  or 
silk  you  net  with  :  this  bead  is  to  be  brought  to  the  front  of  the 
mesh,  and  held  there  until  the  knot  is  made ;  at  the  back  of  the 
mesh,  bring  the  needle  and  thread,  passing  the  point  through  the 
bead  which  is  upon  the  front  of  the  mesh.  The  needle  and  thread 
are  then  to  be  drawn  through  it,  by  which  means  the  bead  will  be 
brought  quite  up  to  the  knot  just  made.  By  working  the  beads  in 
this  manner,  they  will  be  kept  stationary  upon  the  thread,  and  so 
remain  in  their  places,  and  impart  much  beauty  to  the  work. 


128  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

DIAMOND  NETTING. — This  kind  of  netting  is  easy  of  execution, 
and  looks  extremely  pretty.  It  is  done  by 
making  every  other  stitch  a  loop  stitch,  in 
order  to  effect  which,  the  silk  must  be  put 
twice  round  the  mesh,  instead  of  once,  as  in 
plain  netting.  Treble  diamond  netting  is 
similar,  only  the  process  is  rather  more  diffi- 
cult in  execution.  After  netting  three  rows 
plain,  at  the  beginning,  the  first  row  is  to  be  composed  of  one 
loop  stitch,  and  three  plain  stitches,  repeated  until  the  row  is  fin- 
ished :  then  in  working  the  second  row,  commence  with  a  plain 
stitch,  then  follow  with  a  loop,  then  two  plain  stitches,  and  repeat 
as  before.  For  the  third  row  begin  with  one  or  two  plain  stitches, 
make  a  loop,  then  net  a  stitch  plain,  and  repeat  the  two  loops  and 
the  plain  stitch  to  the  end  of  the  row.  For  the  fouth  row  you  net 
three  stitches  in  plain  netting,  then  make  a  loop  stitch,  and  repeat 
as  in  previous  rows.  An  attention  to  this  arrangement,  will  soon 
enable  the  young  student  in  net-work,  to  net  in  as  many  stitches 
as  may  seem  desirable. 

DIAMOND  NETTING,  OF  FIVE  STITCHES. — Commence  with  a 
long  loop,  then  net  five  loops  plain,  repeat 
to  the  end  of  the  row,  finishing  with  a  long 
loop.  Second  row,  begin  with  a  plain  loop, 
make  a  loose  stitch  to  meet  the  short  loop  in 
the  previous  row,  and  withdraw  the  mesh 
before  commencing  the  next  loop,  work  four 
loops  plain,  and  so  proceed.  Third  row  is 
commenced  as  the  second :  withdraw  the 
mesh  as  before,  and  work  three  plain  loops.  Begin  the  fourth 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  129 

row  with  a  plain  stitch,  work  a  long  loop,  then  a  loose  stitch  ; 
withdraw  the  mesh,  and  work  two  plain  stitches ;  again  with- 
draw the  mesh,  work  a  plain  stitch,  and  so  proceed  to  the  end. 
The  fifth  is  begun  with  two  plain  stitches;  then  form  a  loose  stitch, 
withdraw  the  mesh,  work  one  plain  loop,  again  withdraw  the 
mesh,  and  finish  with  two  plain  stitches.  The  sixth  row  com- 
mences with  three  stitches  plain,  then  make  one  loose  stitch,  and 
finish  with  two  plain  ones.  For  the  seventh  row,  commence  as 
in  the  last  case ;  make  a  long  loop,  and  finish  with  two  plain 
stitches.  The  eighth  row  begins  with  three  stitches  in  plain  net- 
ting ;  withdraw  the  mesh,  net  one  stitch  plain,  make  a  loose  stitch, 
again  withdraw  the  mesh,  and  finish  the  row  with  a  plain  stitch. 
In  doing  the  ninth  row  net  two  stitches  plain,  withdraw  the  mesh, 
net  two  more  plain  stitches,  make  a  loose  stitch,  again  withdraw 
the  mesh,  and  finish  with  a  plain  stitch.  The  tenth  row  is  begun 
as  the  last,  but  instead  of  the  loose  stitch,  net  a  plain  one,  then 
make  the  loose  stitch,  and  withdraw  the  mesh.  The  mesh  proper 
for  this  kind  of  netting  is  No.  18,  and  the  silk  called  second-sized 
purse  twist,  is  the  best  adapted  for  this  kind  of  work. 
DOTTED  NETTING. — This  is  easily  done.  Cast  on  the  number 
of  loops  you  require,  and  proceed  as  fol- 
lows. Begin  with  long  loop,  in  which 
you  next  increase  two  stitches ;  repeat  to 
the  end  of  the  row.  None  of  the  rows 
are  at  all  varied ;  and  you  must  carefully 
preserve  its  uniform  appearance,  as  in  that 
consists  its  principal  beauty 

SHADED  SILK  NETTING. — This  is  beautiful,  when  the  shades 
blend  well  together.  Of  course,  each  row  must  be  worked  in  one 
shade,  and  the  next  needful  must  be  matched  with  the  utmost  care. 


130  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

It  is  not  possible  to  give  minute  rules  on  such  a  subject :  but,  iu 
this,  as  in  other  things,  practice  will  insure  success. 

GRECIAN  NETTING. — This  is  beautiful,  and  should  be  worked 
with  fine  silk,  and  with  two  meshes,  No.  9 
and  18 ;  one  plain  row  is  to  be  netted  with 
the  large  mesh,  and  then  in  the  next  row 
employ  the  small  one.  The  silk  is  twisted 
round  the  fingers  as  in  plain  netting,  and  the 
needle  must  pass  through  the  finger  loop  into  the  first  stitch,  and 
thence  into  the  second.  Then  let  the  second  be  drawn  through 
the  first,  and  the  first  through  the  second,  finishing  the  stitch  by 
releasing  your  fingers  and  pulling  the  material  tight.  The  suc- 
ceeding stitch  is  a  small  loop,  that  appears  to  cross  the  stitches 
twisted  together.  These  three  kinds  of  stitches  form  the  pattern, 
and  are  to  be  repeated  until  the  work  is  completed.  Grecian  net- 
ting may  be  employed  for  a  variety  of  purposes,  and  you  can,  of 
course,  vary  both  the  material  and  the  meshes  as  best  accords  with 
the  design  you  are  intending  to  accomplish. 

FRENCH  GROUND  NET. — You  must  have  an  even  number  of 
loops  on  the  foundation,  then  proceed.  First 
row,  plain  stitches  and  long  loops,  alternate- 
ly; second  row  plain;  make  a  loose  stitch, 
and  repeat.  Begin  the  fourth  with  a  loose 
stitch,  net  one  plain,  repeat  to  the  end ;  com- 
mence the  fifth  row  by  netting  one  plain  loop,  make  a  long  loop, 
and  the  little  loop  as  in  the  third  row ;  in  coming  after  the  last 
long  loop,  the  little  loop  must  be  exchanged  for  a  plain  stitch. 

ANOTHER  KIND  OF  HONEYCOMB  NETTING. — Use  a  mesh  No. 
17,  and  set  on  an  even  number  of  stitches.  Net  the  first  row  plain, 
having  the  silk  round  the  mesh  twice.  For  the  second  row  you 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  131 

put  the  silk  once  round  the  mesh  and  net  the  second  loop,  having 
previously  half  twisted  it.  Then  net  the  first  loop  plain,  net  the 
fourth  as  the  second,  again  net  a  stitch  plain,  and  thus  proceed 
with  plain  and  half-twisted  stitches,  alternately.  The  third  row 
is  the  same  as  the  first,  and  the  fourth  as  the  second.  These 
kinds  of  netting  are  very  pretty  for  purses,  bags,  &c.,  and  may  be 
done  in  different  colors  if  the  purse  is  worked  in  four  or  five  rows 
of  plain,  and  the  same  number  of  honeycomb  netting. 
HONEYCOMB  NETTING. — You  are  to  make  an  even  number  of 
loops,  putting  the  silk  twice  round  a  No. 
18  mesh,  for  the  second  row  net  with  the 
silk  once  round  the  mesh,  and  put  the 
first  stitch  through  the  second  at  the  back, 
and  net  it ;  then  the  second  stitch  is  pulled 
through  the  middle  of  the  first  and  netted :  you  do  the  same  with 
each  two  of  the  other  stitches,  and  must  be  careful  not  to  burst 
them.  For  the  third  row,  the  silk  is  put  twice  round  the  mesh, 
and  the  netting  is  plain.  You  proceed  thus  in  alternate  rows  until 
the  work  is  done. 

HONEYCOMB  NETTING,  WITH  TWO  MESHES. — The  meshes  pro- 
per are  No.  9  and  16.  Cast  on  an  even 
number  of  stitches,  and  net  the  first  row 
plain,  with  the  No.  9  mesh.  With  mesh 
No.  16  net  the  second  row,  working  the 
second  stitch  first  and  the  first  second,  and 
so  proceed  netting  the  fourth  stitch,  and  then  the  third,  and  so  on 
to  the  end  Work  the  third  row  with  No.  9  as  before,  and  the 
fourth  row  as  the  second,  only  netting  the  first  loop  plain,  and 
then  taking,  first  the  third,  and  then  the  second,  and  so  on  to  the 


132  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

end,  finishing  with  a  loop  in  plain  netting.  The  next  row  is  done 
plain  with  No.  9,  the  next  with  No.  16,  exactly  as  the  first  twisted 
row.  The  odd  stitch  netted  plain,  only  occurs  at  the  commence- 
ment of  each  alternate  row  of  netting  done  with  No.  16.  This 
kind  of  netting  is  proper  for  a  veil. 

LEAF  NETTING. — This  is  pretty  when  executed  properly.  You 
should  work  with  cotton,  and  No.  14  mesh. 
Five  loops  are  required  for  each  pattern. 
Commence  the  first  row  by  netting  two  plain 
loops  for  the  edge,  then  net  three  plain,  in  the 
next  loop  increase  four,  and  repeat  this  oper- 
ation to  the  end  of  the  row ;  finish  with  two  plain  loops.  Begin 
the  second  row  as  before,  and  collect  all  the  loops  increased  in 
each  of  the  twice  four  loops  formed  in  the  last  row,  into  one ; 
then  net  four  loops  plain ;  repeat  this  to  the  end  of  the  row,  and 
net  two  plain  as  before.  The  third  row  is  plain  netting.  The 
fourth  row  has  two  loops  netted  plain, -then  two  more  plain ;  you 
then  increase  four  on  each  of  the  next  two  loops,  net  one  plain, 
and  repeat  the  operation  to  the  end  of  the  row ;  finish  by  netting 
two  stitches  plain.  Fifth  row,  commence  as  before,  net  one  plain 
loop,  collect  the  increased  loops  as  the  second  row,  net  three  plain, 
and  so  repeat ;  net  two  plain  to  finish  the  row.  The  next  row  is 
netted  plain.  Repeat  these  rows  as  often  as  your  work  requires 
it  to  be  done. 

NET  WITH  POINTS. — This  is  done  by  making  a  foundation  of, 
say,  ninety  stitches.  Net  on  this  foundation  with  any  color  you 
please.  Net  fifty  stitches  and  return  back  again,  proceed  as  be- 
fore, only  decreasing  ten  stitches,  and  so  go  on,  until  the  required 
point  is  gained.  Two  colors  are  required. 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  133 

MALTESE  NETTING,  IN  SPOTS. — This  is  neat  and  elegant :  it  is 
done  as  follows.    The  first  two  rows  are  netted 
plain :  you  commence  the  third  row  by  netting  seven 
stitches ;   the   silk   is  then  to  be  passed  round  the 
mesh,  and  the  needle  brought  under  the  knot  in  the 
second  row,  but  without  netting  it ;  that  is  between 
the  stitch  you  last  netted  and  the  one  you  are  about 
to  net.     A  loop  is  then  made,  which  is  not  to  be 
netted  separately,  as  that  would  increase  a  stitch  in  the  next  row ; 
but  it  is  to  be  taken  up  with  the  last  of  the  seven  stitches  pre- 
viously netted.     If  you  desire  the  spots  to  appear  very  distinct  and 
prominent,  let  the  silk  pass  twice  round  the  mesh,  and  afterwards 
through  the  loop,  and  repeat  the  operation  to  the  end.     You  may 
do  this  spotting,  either  as  it  appears  in  the  pattern,  or  in  almost 
any  form  you  please. 

PLAIN  OPEN  NETTING. — This  is  pretty,  and  easy  of  execution. 
The  operation  is  performed  by  netting  three 
rows  plain,  then  a  row  of  loop  stitches,  then 
three  rows  plain,  and  a  row  of  loops  as  before. 
You  may  net  to  any  length  you  please.  The 
direction  here  given  is  all  that  is  necessary,  and 
if  duly  attended  to  will  enable  any  young  lady 
to  attain  proficiency. 

ROUND  NETTING. — You  commence  making  the  loops,  as  in 
common  netting,  by  twisting  the  silk  round 
the  fingers,  then  pass  the  needle  and  the  silk 
through  the  finger-loop,  and  bring  it  up  on 
the  back  side  of  the  mesh,  between  it  and 
the  fore  finger ;  the  fingers  and  loop  are  still  to  be  kept  on  them 


134  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

as  before  ;  the  middle  is  then  to  be  reversed,  and  brought  down 
through  the  first  loop,  (on  the  foundation,)  and  taking  a  slanting 
direction  over  the  mesh.  Having  drawn  it  entirely  through,  you 
withdraw  your  finger  from  the  loop,  as  in  ordinary  netting.  You 
every  succeding  loop  in  the  same  way. 


C  HAPTER    XV. 

NETTING. 

EXAMPLES   IN   NETTING. 

A  PURSE,  WITH  CHINA  SILK. — Make  as  many  stitches  on  the 
foundation  as  you  please.  Net  three  rows  with  plain  colors, 
then  five  with  China  silk.  Repeat. 

A  SEAM  PURSE,  WITH  BEADS. — You  will  need  four  skeins  of 
fine  silk,  and  a  mesh,  No.  8.  On  a  foundation  of  one  hundred 
stitches,  net  one  plain  row.  Then  in  the  next  row,  net  a  plain 
and  a  bead  stitch  successively.  Net  the  third  row  plain,  and  be- 
gin the  next  with  a  bead  stitch.  Proceed  thus  till  the  purse  is 
completed. 

A  NETTED  BAG,  WITH  RING. — On  a  foundation  of  sixty  stitches, 
net  the  bag  to  half  the  length  required ;  then  net  in  a  gilt  ring,  and 
finish  the  bag.  Draw  it  up  with  ribbon,  and  place  a  gilded  or  silk 
tassel  at  the  bottom.  You  will  require  coarse  netting  silk,  and  a 
No.  16  mesh.  You  may  use  union  cord,  or  gilt  twist,  if  you  pre- 
fer it. 

DICE  PATTERN  PURSE. — This  is  done  in  two  colors,  highly  con- 
trasted. You  must  have  two  skeins  of  second  sized  silk,  and  a 
No.  10  mesh.  On  a  foundation  of  ninety-eight  stiiches,  net  seven 
with  the  darkest  color.  You  net  seven  rows.  Then  introduce 
the  lighter  silk,  by  joining  it  to  the  seventh  stitch  of  the  first  row 


136  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

of  the  dark  color,  and  net  seven  rows  upon  the  succeeding  seven 
stitches  of  the  foundation.  You  must  be  careful  to  loop  in  the  last 
dark  stitch  on  each  row :  repeat  this  process  until  the  purse  is  of 
the  length  you  require ;  of  course  reversing  the  squares.  In  cut- 
ting off  the  silk,  you  must  leave  sufficient  to  make  a  weaver's  knot, 
with  which  is  to  be  fastened  to  the  succeeding  color. 

HONEYCOMB  MITTENS. — You  commence  by  casting  on  fifty 
stitches ;  the  first  four  rows  are  to  netted  plain :  after  which,  you 
net  one  row  with  the  silk,  twice  round  the  mesh ;  again  net  two 
rows  with  the  silk  round  the  mesh  once :  you  then  commence 
netting  rounds,  and  net  rows  as  before.  The  first  row  is  to  be 
netted  with  the  silk  twice  round  the  mesh ,  the  second  is  in  honey- 
comb pattern ;  the  third  round  is  executed  as  the  first,  and  the  fourth 
as  the  second ;  for  the  fifth  round  you  net  eleven  stitches  with  the 
silk,  round  the  mesh,  as  in  the  first  row,  and  make  two  increased 
stitches  in  the  twelfth  loop ;  in  the  next  row,  you  are  to  net  five 
stitches  and  increase  two,  netting  the  whole,  as  in  the  first  row  ; 
net  the  seventh  like  the  second,  and  let  this  be  repeated  for  the  four 
succeeding  rounds,  a  plain  and  a  pattern  round  alternately ;  in  the 
next  round,  which  is  plain,  pass  the  silk  twice  round  the  mesh, 
and  net  seven  stiches ;  increase  two  stitches  in  the  eighth  round  and 
net  seventeen  in  plain  and  pattern,  alternate  rounds ;  in  the  eigh- 
teenth increase  two,  and  net  five  rounds;  again  increase  two,  and 
net  five  ;  and  on  each  side  again  increase  two  ;  net  three  rounds 
after  the  last  increase,  continuing  to  net  till  you  arrive  at  the  stitch 
over  the  last  stitch  you  increased,  and  net  it  to  the  one  correspon- 
ding to  it  on  the  other  side  of  the  thumb;  if  it  does  not  fit  as  it 
ought  to  do,  you  must  decrease,  until  that  object  is  secured ;  you 
are  to  finish  the  thumb, by  netting  a  round  with  the  silk,  put  twice 
round  the  mesh, and  two  rounds  in  plain  netting ;  the  silk  is  to  be 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  137 

fastened  to  the  side  of  the  thumb,  in  order  to  finish  the  hand :  and 
you  are  to  net  plain  and  pattern  rounds  successively.  When  the 
mitten  is  nearly  the  length  you  wish,  finish  in  the  same  manner 
you  did  the  thumb,  using  double  silk 

NETTED  CUFFS. — The  materials  are  German  wool  and  French 
floss  silk,  and  the  work  is  executed  with  a  mesh,  No.  11,  and  a 
small  steel  one,  No.  15.  You  commence  on  a  foundation  of  fifty- 
four  loops ;  and  in  order  to  form  the  right  side,  you  net  one  row 
of  wool  with  the  large  mesh,  and  three  rows  of  silk  with  the  small 
one,  alternately,  till  you  have  netted  twenty  four  rows.  Then  you 
form  the  wrong  side,  by  netting  one  row  of  wool  with  the  larger 
mesh,  and  two  rows  of  the  same  material  with  the  small  one. 
You  will  require  nine  rows  netted  with  the  wide  mesh,  with  two 
narrow  rows  between  each.  Then  net  one  wide  row  with  wool, 
having  in  each  loop  three  stitches ;  above  this,  knit  one  nanow 
row  of  silk,  and  do  the  same  at  the  other  end.  You  have  only  to 
double  the  cuffs,  turning  the  plain  side  inmost,  and  the  rows  of 
wool  and  silk  will  form  a  kind  of  border  and  finish  to  the  whole, 

NETTED  CUFF  WITH  SILK  AND  WOOL. — On  a  foundation  of 
ninety-six  stitches,  and  with  a  No.  11  mesh,  net  one  row  plain  in 
floss  silk.  Second  row  the  same.  Then  with  an  ivory  mesh  of 
half  an  inch  in  width,  net  one  row  in  German  wool.  The  fourth 
row  is  to  be  done  two  stitches  in  one,  with  wool,  using  a  small 
mesh.  Then  for  the  inside  half  of  the  cuff,  net  fourteen  rows 
with  the  large  and  small  meshes,  successively.  These  to  be  done 
in  silk  and  wool  alternately.  The  next  three  rows  to  be  netted 
in  dark  wool.  Then  with  the  small  mesh  net  two  rows  in  silk, 
the  same  color  as  at  the  commencement,  alternately,  with  seven 
rows  of  wool,  in  proper  shades,  and  finish  with  an  edge  to  corres- 
pond with  the  beginning. 


138  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

NETTED  FRINGE. — Use  a  mesh  No.  18,  and  net  the  required 
length,  dropping  off  the  stitches  on  the  left.  Net  the  next  row 
the  same.  Then  with  a  flat  mesh,  the  width  of  the  fringe,  plac- 
ing the  grooved  edge  downward,  net  one  row.  These  latter  loops 
are  to  be  cut,  and  either  left  as  they  are,  or  knitted  two  and  two 
together,  as  the  taste  of  the  worker  may  dictate. 

NETTED  OPERA  CAP. — Work  with  one  mesh,  half  an  inch 
wide  ;  and  another,  smaller,  of  steel ;  and  begin  on  a  foundation 
of  seventy-four  stitches.  You  must  procure  in  double  German 
wool,  two  colors  that  contrast  well :  commence  with  the  darkest 
shade,  and  net  with  the  wide  mesh  one  row ;  the  second  is  to  be 
netted  with  the  narrow  one,  and  so  on  alternately :  the  sixth  and 
seventh  are  both  worked  with  the  narrow  mesh :  then  net  five 
more  rows  with  the  wide  and  narrow  meshes  alternately :  this 
done,  you  commence  with  the  other  color,  and  net  one  row,  hav- 
ing three  stitches  on  each  loop  of  the  row  preceding :  you  now 
introduce  silk  of  the  same  color  as  that  of  the  wool  first  used,  and 
net  one  row  with  the  narrow  mesh ;  in  that  row  all  the  stitches 
of  the  last  row,  netted  in  wool,  must  be  taken  up  separately ;  the 
foundation  is  now  to  be  removed,  and  rows  of  the  lighter  colored 
wool  and  silk,  are  to  be  netted  to  correspond.  Net  another  piece 
of  work  in  exactly  the  same  manner  as  the  former,  and  taking  one 
of  the  pieces,  fold  it  in  the  middle,  and  net  one  row  with  the  nar- 
row mesh  in  the  centre  row  of  knots ;  in  the  piece  thus  doubled, 
proceed  to  net  a  row  with  the  wide  mesh,  then  two  with  the  nar- 
row one,  and  again  one  with  the  wide  mesh.  The  other  piece  is 
then  to  be  folded  in  the  same  manner,  and  united  to  the  former  one 
by  netting  a  row,  taking  up  as  before  the  centre  row  of  knots. 
This  makes  the  front  of  the  cap  appear  in  four  pieces.  At  the 
back,  in  the  centre  row  of  knots,  net  a  row  with  the  narrow  mesh, 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  139 

to  keep  it  on  an  even  fold.     You  draw  up  the  cap  at  the  end,  and 
put  the  strings  on.     This  completes  it. 

NETTED  SCOLLOP  EDGING. — You  work  this  with  a  flat  mesh, 
and  set  on  as  many  stitches  as  you  in- 
tend to  have  scollops.  The  flat  mesh 
should  be  No.  3 ;  and  you  will  also  re- 
quire two  round  ones,  one  No.  14  and 
the  other  No.  18.  Begin  the  work  as 
follows.  Net  the  first  row  with  the  flat  mesh,  and  increase  eigh- 
teen stitches  into  each  of  the  loops  on  the  foundation.  For  the 
second  row,  use  the  mesh  No.  14,  and  net  a  plain  stitch  into  each 
loop.  Then,  with  the  mesh  No.  18,  net  the  third  row  in  long 
loops,  by  passing  the  material  twice  round  the  mesh ;  you  are 
to  increase  two  stitches  in  the  same  loop,  and  so  continue  to  the 
end  of  the  row.  In  the  fourth  row  you  use  the  mesh  No.  14  and 
leaving  all  the  increased  stitches  without  netting  them,  net  the  long 
loops  plain.  The  fifth  and  sixth  rows  are  netted  plain  with  the 
mesh  No.  14,  which  finishes  the  scollop. 

PLAIN  NETTED  GENTLEMAN'S  PURSE. — Of  coarse  netting  silk, 
you  will  require  five  skeins,  and  a  mesh,  No.  13.  You  must 
have  a  foundation  of  eighty  stitches  on  which  to  commence,  and 
you  net  to  the  length  of  ten  inches.  Net  up  the  sides  and  damp 
it  slightly,  after  which  it  is  put  upon  a  purse  stretcher,  where  it 
is  to  be  left  for  a  few  hours,  then  take  it  off  and  trim  it  as  you 
please. 

A  LADY'S  PURSE. — Net  in  the  same  manner  seventy  stitches 

on  the  foundation,  and  nine  inches  in  length  is  sufficient.  Employ 

a  mesh  No.  10,  and  fine  netting;  silk.      Two  colors  may  be  used, 

netting  five  rows  with  one,  and  four  with  the  other. 

PLAIN  NETTED  MITTENS. — Begin  on  forty-eight  stitches  as  a 


140  LADIES'  WOHK-TABLE  BOOK. 

foundation,  and  net  four  rows  plain ;  then  form  the  loops,  for  the 
ribbon,  with  a  mesh  double  the  size  of  that  you  work  with. 
Then  five  rows  more  are  to  be  netted  plain  ;  and  in  the  next  you 
must  join  both  ends,  and  net  one  plain  round,  taking  care  in  the 
twelfth  stitch  to  increase.  Again  net  round,  and  increase  as  be- 
fore. Net  the  remaining  stitches.  You  must  then  net  sixteen 
rounds,  increasing  two  stitches,  to  form  the  thumb,  in  the  same 
place  as  the  other  increased  stitches,  every  other  round.  Join  the 
thumb  stitches,  and  net  seven  rounds,  which  is  the  length  of  the 
thumb,  decreasing  a  stitch  or  two  in  every  round.  With  the  larger 
mesh  you  are  to  net  two  stitches  in  every  loop,  and  then  net  one 
round,  taking  the  two  together.  Net  two  or  three  rounds  with  a 
finer  mesh :  this  finishes  the  thumb.  Net  as  many  rounds  as  are 
wanted  for  the  hand,  and  finish  as  before.  Run  in  the  ribbon,  and 
edge  with  lace.  You  must  have  a  No.  12  mesh,  and  five  skeins 
of  silk. 

A  PLAIN  SCOLLOP. — You  must  cast  on  one  stitch  for  each  scol- 
lop :  this  is  the  first  row.     For  the 
second,  use  a  fiat  mesh  No.  1,  and 
increase  twenty  stitches  in  each  loop 
Net  the  third  with  a  round  mesh  No. 
14,   netting  all   the  increased  loops 
plain.     The  two  next  rows  are  netted  plain,  with  the  same  mesh, 
which  finishes  the  pattern. 

CAP  BORDER  SCOLLOP. — You  commence  with  one  stitch  for 
each  scollop,  as  in  last  pattern.  For  the  sec- 
ond row,  use  the  flat  mesh  No.  1 ,  and  increase 
in  each  loop  twelve  stitches.  Net  the  third  round  with  the  round 
mesh  No.  15,  and  be  careful  to  net  the  increased  stitches  plain. 
The  last  row  is  netted  plain,  with  the  same  mesh  as  the  preced- 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  141 

ing  one.  The  cotton  used  in  the  netting  of  these  scollops,  should 
be  about  the  size  of  what  is  called  third-sized  purse  twist 

NET  CRAVAT. — This  is  netted  with  German  wool,  and  with  a 
mesh  No.  9.  Having  cast  on  400  stitches,  in  the  color  you  intend 
first  to  use,  net  twenty-three  rows  in  plain  netting.  Then  intro- 
duce the  other  color,  or  white ;  and  again,  in  the  same  manner, 
net  twenty-three  rows.  Proceed  thus,  till  you  have  three  stripes 
of  each  color :  then  net  the  two  sides  together,  and  draw  up  the 
ends.  You  may  add  tassels,  if  you  choose. 

A  NET  SCARF. — This  is  to  be  worked  with  two  flat  needles, 
No.  8  and  No.  2,  and  in  that  kind  of  silk  called  dockers.  You 
are  to  commence,  by  casting  on  210  stitches,  and  netting  four  rows 
with  the  smaller  mesh,  and  thirty  or  thirty- two  with  the  larger 
one.  These  repeated,  six  times,  completes  the  scarf.  You  must 
add  the  four  narrow  rows,  which  will  complete  the  edge.  The 
scarf  is  to  be  drawn  up  at  each  end,  and  have  tassels  attached. 

A  LONG  PURSE,  IN  POINTS. — Upon  your  foundation  loops, 
put  sixty  stitches  in  one  of  the  colors  you  intend  to  use,  and  re- 
turn on  them.  Then,  in  the  next  row,  put  on  forty  stitches,  the 
next  forty,  and  so  on  to  ten,  always  returning  on  the  number  last 
put  on,  and  leaving  the  ten  unnetted.  You  then,  with  another 
needle,  introduce  your  other  color,  and  put  on  ten  stitches  upon 
the  foundation  loops,  commencing  ten  loops  from  the  sixty  of  the 
first  color.  When  you  have  reached  the  last  of  the  sixty,  which 
you  will  do  when  you  have  put  on  the  ten,  you  must  draw  the 
mesh  out,  and  pass  the  needle  with  the  second  color,  through  the 
concluding  stitch  of  the  first,  working  back  upon  the  second  color 
the  ten  stitches  last  introduced.  The  rest  of  the  row  is  increased 
ten ;  and  you  must  then  decrease,  as  you  did  with  the  first  color. 
One  pattern  is  then  complete ;  and  you  re-commence  and  proceed 
as  before. 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

CROCHET. 

STITCHES  IN  CROCHET. 

CROCHET  has  been  long  known, but  it  has  only  become  a  favorite 
with  the  fair  votaries  of  the  needle,  during  the  last  few  years.  It 
is  very  difficult  to  describe,  though  easy  of  execution,  and  can  be 
applied  to  a  variety  of  useful  aud  ornamental  purposes.  It  is  most 
frequently  adopted  in  -working  shawls,  table  covers,  pillows,  mats, 
slippers,  carriage  mats,  and  a  great  variety  of  other  things  of  ele- 
gance and  utility.  Silk,  cotton,  and  wool,  are  employed,  and  the 
work  is  so  easy,  that  a  moderate  share  of  attention  to  details,  will 
make  an  expert  workman. 

STITCHES. — These  are  called  plain  single  crochet,  plain  double 
crochet,  plain  stitch  open  crochet,  and  open  crochet,  with  a  variety 
of  stitches.  It  is  not  easy  to  describe  the  manner  of  working 
crochet  stitch,  though  it  is  easy  of  execution :  perhaps  the  follow- 
ing will  be  found  tolerably  correct.  Take  a  skein  of  wool,  and 
having  wound  it,  make  a  loop  at  one  end,  like  the  first  link  in  a 
chain ;  through  this  draw  another,  and  so  on,  until  the  chain  is  of 
the  length  required.  Each  must  be  made  rather  tight  as  it  is  drawn 
through  its  preceding  loop.  This  forms  the  foundation,  and  the 
young  worker  may  then  proceed  with  the  article  she  intends  to 
make.  She  _must  pass  the  needle  through  the  last  loop  of  the 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  143 

foundation,  and  catching  the  silk  or  other  material  from  behind, 
draw  it  through  and  so  proceed  with  every  succeeding  loop  of  the 
foundation,  until  the  row  is  completed.  Having  thus  formed  the 
first  row,  she  must  proceed  as  before  to  form  a  second,  and  so  on 
from  right  to  left,  and  from  left  to  right,  until  she  has  all  the  rows 
required.  This  is  the  most  effectual  way  we  know  of  for  the 
learner  to  pursue  and  she  will  find  that  her  work  is  the  same  on 
both  sides,  producing  raised  and  depressed  rows  in  alternate  suc- 
cession. In  working  she  must  not  generally  work  backward  and 
forward,  but  must  finish  each  row  separately. 

PLAIN  CROCHET. — Make  only  one  loop  in  each  stitch.  In  mak- 
ing common  purses  in  crochet,  this  is  the  stitch  generally  employed. 

PLAIN  DOUBLE  CROCHET. — Keep  two  loops  on  the  needle  be- 
fore finishing  the  stitch.  This  stitch  is  more  generally  in  use  than 
any  of  the  others  described. 

PLAIN  STITCH  OPEN  CROCHET. — This  stitch  is  done  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner.  To  the  last  link  of  the  foundation  chain,  crochet 
five  stitches,  which  must  be  again  crocheted  in  the  fifth  stitch  of 
the  chain.  This  is  to  be  repeated  to  the  foundation.  The  rest  of 
the  rows  are  to  be  done  in  the  same  way,  attaching  every  fifth 
stitch  to  the  centre  one  of  each  loop  in  the  row  preceding.  This 
looks  extremely  well  for  purses,  and  it  can  be  be  varied  by  em- 
ploying two  or  more  colors  as  taste  or  fancy  may  direct. 

OPEN  CROCHET. — This  stitch  is  difficult  to  describe ;  an  atten- 
tion to  the  following  rules  will,  we  hope,  enable 


"-          the  reader  to  understand  it.     First  make  a  chain 


of  the  length  required  for  the  foundation  ;  then 
work  one  stitch  plain,  and  bring  the  material  round  the  needle, 
which  must  be  passed  through  the  first  loop  of  the  chain,  through 
which  bring  the  material,  and  you  will  thus  have  three  stitches  on 


144  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

the  needle.     Through  the  two  first  of  these  the  material  must  be 
drawn,  which  will  leave  two  ;  through  these  the  material  must  be 
again  drawn,  and  that  will  leave  one,  through  which  you  are  to 
make  one  stitch  plain,  as  at  the  commencement.     You  then  put 
the  material  over  the  needle,  and  through  the  fourth  link  of  the 
chain,  and  proceed  as  before.    You  will  thus  have  one  plain  stitch 
between  each  two  double  ones,  which  will  leave  an  open  space. 
DOUBLE  OPEN  CROCHET. — This  is  a  similar  stitch,  only  the  sin- 
gte  stitch  is  omitted,  and  the  two  long  stitches  are 
made  together,  by  passing  the  needle  through  the 
next  loop  without  making  a  stitch.     Thus  you 
will  have  two  long  stitches  and  one  open  stitch  in  succession. 
TREBLE  OPEN  CROCHET. — This  is  exactly  like  the  last,  only 
making  three  long  stitches,  instead  of  two,  be- 
fore every  plain  stitch.     It  looks  neat  and  ele- 
gant, and  may  have  beads  introduced,  which 
produce  a  charming  effect.     The  following  di- 
rections will  enable  the  novice  to  work  with  beads  with  freedom 
and  accuracy.     Thread  the  beads  on  a  strong  silk,  and  pass  one  on 
to  the  middle  stitch  of  each  of  the  three  long  ones. 

This  will,  of  course,  place  a  bead  in  the  centre  of  each  square, 
Beads  of  various  colors  may  be  introduced,  so  as  to  form  a  dia- 
mond. A  gold  or  polished  steel  one  should  form  the  centre  of 
each  diamond. 

DOUBLE  STITCH  CROCHET. — To  work  this  you  have  only  to 
take  both  meshes  of  the  chain,  instead  of  one,  as  in  common 
crochet. 

PLAIN  STITCH  ELASTIC  CROCHET. — Work  backward  and  for- 
wards, first  taking  one  mesh  of  the  chain,  and  then  the  other. 
The  upper  mesh  must  be  taken  first. 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  145 

BEAD  STITCH. — If  you  wish  to  work  with  beads,  you  must 
thread  all  you  intend  to  use,  before  you  begin  to  work.  Then 
when  you  wish  to  insert  a  bead,  no  matter  what  the  pattern  is 
you  are  executing,  you  have  only  to  pass  a  bead  down  to  the  last 
stitch  you  have  worked,  and  to  fasten  it  on  by  working  the  stitch 
as  usual ;  but  this  will  leave  it  on  the  wrong  side ;  to  prevent 
which,  you  must  bring  the  crocheting  thread  to  the  front,  having 
it  on  the  fore  finger  of  the  left  hand :  by  thus  keeping  the  bead  in 
front,  and  inserting  the  needle  from  the  back  or  the  stitch  you  are 
about  to  work,  you  can  draw  the  thread  through  the  back,  and 
make  the  finishing  loop  in  the  common  way :  you  will  then  find 
that  the  bead  is  on  the  right  side. 

EDGE  STITCH. — To  work  this  stitch  you  are  to  draw  a  loop 
through  the  first  stitch  on  the  row,  or  on  the  round,  if  you  work 
in  rounds,  then  draw  a  second  loop  through  the  one  last  made. 
Thus  the  edge  stitch  is  formed.  It  is  of  importance  to  attend  to 
the  regular  working  of  this  stitch,  because  if  it  is  not  done,  you 
will  loose  in  each  row  a  stitch.  On  a  round,  it  is  not  necessary 
to  work  the  edge  stitch ;  but  when  the  work  has  to  be  turned  to 
work  round  the  contrary  way,  the  edge  stitch  is  indispensible. 

A  RAISED  STITCH. — Make  this  by  passing  the  needle  through, 
both  meshes  of  the  chain,  and  working  two  stitches  instead  of  one, 
in  the  same  space  or  hole. 

To  INCREASE  OR  DECREASE  A  STITCH. — In  the  former  case, 
make  two  stitches  in  the  mesh ;  and  in  the  latter,  take  two  stitches 
together  as  one,  or  miss  one. 

TRUE  STITCH. — This  means  to  keep  the  stitches  exactly  over 
each  other,  when  working  in  different  colors,  so  as  to  conceal  the 
the  half  stitch.  This  must  be  done  with  care :  and  the  more  at- 
tention is  paid  to  it,  the  more  beautiful  will  the  work  appear. 


146  LADIES'  WORK  TAQL*V    JOK. 

To  FASTEN  ON  OR  OFF. — The  former  is  done  by  laying  the 
two  ends  of  the  material  contrarywise,  and  working  a  few  stitches 
with  both.  The  latter  process  is  performed  by  drawing  the  ma- 
terial through  the  last  stitch,  which  must  be  fastened  at  the  back. 

A  DIVIDING  LINE. — The  most  general  form  is  that  of  working 
two  stitches  up  and  down  alternately,  between  the  stripes  in  the 
groundings ;  but  it  can  be  varied  according  to  taste. 

What  is  called  making  a  stitch,  at  the  beginning  and  end  01  a 
row,  means  meaking  one  stitch  of  a  chain  before  the  first  and  af- 
ter the  last,  which  new  stitches  are  to  be  crocheted  in  the  succeed- 
ing row. 

To  CARRY  ON  A  THREAD  IN  DOUBLE  CROCHET. — It  is  a  very 
common  thing  to  work  a  pattern  in  crochet,  in  more  than  one 
color;  when  this  is  the  case,  it  is  necessary  that  the  colors,  not 
required,  should  be  so  managed,  as  not  to  make  loops,  or  stitches, 
at  the  back.  To  accomplish  this,  they  must  be  worked  in  the 
following  manner.  Let  the  threads,  that  are  not  required,  be  laid 
along  the  fore  finger  of  the  left  hand ;  and  the  crochet  needle  must 
be  inserted  in  the  usual  manner,  into  the  stitch ;  you  are  to  let  it 
go  below  the  threads  you  are  carrying  on,  and  the  thread  with 
which  you  are  working  is  to  be  drawn  at  the  back,  through  the 
stitch,  into  which  you  inserted  the  needle  or  hook.  Make  the 
finishing  loop  as  usual,  which  you  carry  over  the  threads,  and 
pull  through  the  two  loops  you  have  upon  the  needle.  Thus  you 
will  make  one  stitch,  and  the  process  is  to  be  repeated  as  often  as 
your  work  requires  it. 

JOINING  THE  THREADS. — In  order  that  threads  may  be  united 
neatly  and  properly,  observe  the  following  directions.  Do  not 
work  up  the  thread  quite  to  the  end,  but  leave  a  small  portion ; 
then,  on  the  fore  finger  of  the  left  hand,  by  the  end  of  the  thread 


T.AD     'WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  147 

you  are  about  to  commence  working  with,  the  end  to  be  toward 
the  tip  of  the  finger,  the  ball  will  of  course  be  toward  the  arm  ; 
work  over  it  for  about  six  stitches,  proceeding  as  you  do  in  carry- 
ing over  the  threads ;  then  by  the  thread  you  worked  with,  but 
on  the  same  finger,  and  continue  with  the  thread  you  have  last 
fastened  on,  and  work  over  it,  in  the  same  manner,  for  about  six 
stitches.  The  ends  are  then  to  be  cut,  and  you  work  on  as  usual, 
with  the  thread  just  joined.  This  is  the  best  method  we  know, 
of  making  the  work  appear  neat,  and,  at  the  same  time,  of  secur- 
ing the  required  degree  of  fineness. 

To  INCREASE  A  STITCH  IN  CROCHET. — The  process  by  which 
this  is  done,  is  as  follows.  First,  make  the  stitch  as  usual,  then 
work  it  again  from  the  hinder  or  back  part  of  the  stitch.  This 
prevents  a  hole,  which  would  otherwise  occur. 

To  TAKE  IN  A  STITCH. — To  do  this,  two  stitches  are  taken  on 
the  needle  at  the  same  time,  and  you  work  them  off  as  one. 

We  have  gi^en  the  fullest  explanation  of  the  various  stitches 
in  crochet,  that  our  limited  space  will  allow  ;  and  we  hope  that 
the  directions  are  so  plain  that  no  one  will  be  at  a  loss  to  com- 
prehend their  meaning.  But  we  cannot  piomise  any  votary  of 
this  delightful  employment,  even  tolerable  success,  unless  she  will 
assiduously  apply  her  own  mind  to  the  various  directions.  "  No 
one  can  become  an  expert  needlewoman,  who  does  not  think,  and 
think  deeply,  too." 


CHAPTER     XVII. 
CROCHET. 

EXAMPLES  IN  CROCHET. 

CROCHET  EDGING,  FOR  COLLARS,  &c. — Ascertain  the  length  you 
will  require,  and  cast  on  the  necessary  number 
of  chain  stitches ;  you  must  use  a  steel  hook 


- 

No.  19.     You  will  rind  your  labor  facilitated 


by  sewing  a  piece  of  tape  at  the  beginning  and 
the  end  of  the  foundation-row  of  chain  stitch.  If  the  tops  be  an 
inch  wide,  it  will  form  a  good  beginning  and  termination.  The 
foundation  of  chain  stitch  forms  the  first  row  ;  the  second  is  worked 
thus  ;  the  hook  is  inserted  through  the  first  loop  of  the  foundation  ; 
(this  will  be  on  the  tape,)  through  which,  a  loop  is  to  be  brought  in 
the  usual  manner  ;  directly  above  this,  a  second  loop  is  worked, 
which  forms  the  beginning.  You  now  leave  the  tape,  and  work 
two  chain  stitches;  after  which,  you  throw  a  stitch  on  the  needle, 
by  casting  the  material  over  it.  Then,  taking  the  third  loop  on 
the  foundation,  counting  from  the  one  last  worked,  you  insert  the 
hook,  passing  two  loops  without  working  them,  and  catching  the 
thread  from  behind,  pull  it  through.  Thus,  you  will  have  on  the 
needle  three  loops  ;  and  you  must  now  throw  a  stitch  on  the  hook, 
which  is,  in  like  manner,  to  be  pulled  through  the  first  loop,  near 
the  point.  By  this,  you  will  still  have  three  loops  on  the  hook. 


LADIES'  WORK-TARLE  BOOK.  149 

Again,  throw  on  a  stitch  as  before,  which  draw  through  the  two 
first  loops  on  the  end  of  the  hook ;  then  throw  on  another  stitch, 
which  must  be  pulled  through  the  two  loops  remaining  on  the 
hook.  You  will  then  have  only  one  loop  upon  the  needle ;  and 
thus  one  stitch  is  completed.  Make  two  chain  stitches,  as  before, 
and  then  perform  another  stitch ;  and  so  proceed,  as  in  the  former 
row,  but  instead  of  inserting  the  hook  inthe  third  loop,  as  before, 
pass  it  into  the  first  open  portion  of  the  woik.and  work  the  stitch 
over  the  two  chain  stitches  of  the  second  row,  as  follows.  The 
needle  being  inserted  into  the  open  space,  you  are  to  catch  the  ma- 
terial in  from  behind,  and  draw  it  through,  by  which  you  will  have 
three  loops  on  the  hook :  then  throw  a  loop  on  as  before,  and  let 
it  be  drawn  through  the  first  loop,  on  the  point  of  the  hook.  An- 
other loop  is  next  to  be  thrown  in,  and  drawn  through  the  two 
loops  nearest  the  hook,  on  which  you  will  now  have  two  loops. 
You  thus  complete  the  stitch,  as  in  the  previous  row,  and  so  pro- 
ceed to  the  end.  The  next  row  is  the  same  in  all  respects ;  and 
the  fifth  is  to  form  a  Vandyke  edge :  it  is  worked  in  the  following 
manner :  the  needle  is  inserted  into  the  open  space,  and  work  a 
double  tambour  stitch  round  the  chain  stitches  of  the  fourth  row ; 
then  seven  chain  stitches  are  to  be  made  and  fastened  to  the  two 
chain  stitches  of  the  last  row,  in  the  same  manner  as  before.  Thus 
one  scollop  or  vandyke  is  completed,  and  you  work  all  the  others 
in  the  same  way. 

PETTICOAT   CROCHET  EDGING. — Work  this  in  the  following 
manner.     First  row  like  the  last  pattern.     The 
second  like  the  second  of  the  last ;  and  finish 
with  the  fifth  row  of  the  same  pattern.    Per- 
sian cotton, No. 6, is  the  best  material;  and  you  work  with  a  long 
steel  crochet  needle,  having  an  ivory  screw  handle. 


150  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

CROCHET  EDGING, HANDKERCHIEFS. — This  isdone  it  three  rcnvs, 
worked  as  the  first,  second,  third,  and  fifth  rows  of  crochet  edging, 
for  collars.  The  material  is  Persian  thread,  No.  1 2 ;  and  you  work 
with  a  fine  steel  crochet  needle,  with  a  screw  handle. 

INSERTION,  OR  CROCHET  BEADING. — You  work  this,  if  narrow, 
as  first  and  second  rows  of  the  first  pattern ;  if  you  have  it  wider, 
work  it  as  the  third  row.  It  may  be  either  worked  with  No.  8  or 
No.  12  cotton,  and  looks  neat  and  handsome. 

The  following  remarks  on  crochet  should  be  carefully  attended 
to.  It  is  necessary  to  work  this  kind  of  work,  rather  loose  than 
otherwise,  as  it  is  liable  to  cut,  if  done  over  tight.  The  size  of 
the  stitch  depends,  of  course,  upon  that  of  the  needle  ;  and,  there- 
fore, care  should  be  taken,  to  have  them  gauged.  If  a  needle  will 
go  into  the  slit,  opposite  No.  4,  but  not  into  No.  5,  then  it  is  a 
No.  4  needle. 

SOFA  PILLOW. — Work  in  six  threads  fleecy,  and  with  a  good 
sized  crochet  needle ;  work  as  follows.  For  the  first  stripe,  com- 
mence with  two  rows  of  the  same  color ;  the  three  next  rows,  in 
different  shades,  of  a  color  that  will  contrast  well  with  that  of  the 
two  first;  the  sixth  row  must  be  of  a  different  color,  or  it  may  be 
white.  The  next  five  rows  are  to  correspond,  reversing  the  colors 
and  shades.  The  second  stripe  is  composed  of  seven  rows :  the 
first,  three  distinct  shades  of  the  same  color ;  the  middle  one,  a 
contrast ;  and  the  other  three,  the  same  shades  as  the  first,  but  re- 
versed as  before.  The  third  stripe  is  the  same,  but,  of  course,  the 
colors  are  different.  A  white  row  in  the  middle  of  each  stripe,  is, 
in  our  opinion,  the  best.  The  fourth  stripe  is  a  repetition  of  the 
first,  omitting  the  color  in  the  first  two  rows,  the  fifth  of  the  se- 
cond, and  the  sixth  of  the  third.  The  last  stripe  is  to  correspond 
exactly  with  the  first. 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  151 

TURKISH  PATTERN,  FOR  A  TABLE  COVER. — Use  a  steel  needle, 
and  six  threads  fleecy.  Form  the  dividing  line  of  two  shades  of 
the  same  color,  say  claret,  and  have  four  stripes,  namely,  white, 
gold  color,  blue,  and  scarlet.  Then,  on  the  white  stripe,  work 
the  pattern  in  two  greens,  two  scarlets,  two  blues,  a  brown,  and  a 
yellow.  On  the  gold  color,  in  two  blues  and  one  claret,  white, 
lilac,  and  green.  On  the  blue,  in  two  scarlets,  two  greens,  one 
drab,  white,  brown,  and  orange.  And  on  the  scarlet,  one  green, 
one  white,  two  blues,  a  claret,  and  a  bright  yellow.  We  have 
merely  given  the  colors  in  the  above,  as  a  specimen,  and  to  assist 
the  youthful  artist  in  the  formation  of  habits  of  arrangement.  She 
can,  of  course,  adopt  any  colors  and  shades  she  pleases ;  and  the 
more  she  employs  her  own  thought  and  judgment,  the  more  ori- 
ginal will  her  work  appear. 

A  PLAIN  CROCHET  BAG,  IN  SILK. — Begin  at  the  top  with  a 
chain,  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  stitches.  The  material  to  work 
with,  may  be  any  kind  of  silk  that  is  proper  for  the  purpose,  and 
of  any  color  that  may  be  deemed  desirable.  On  this  foundation, 
a  plain  row  is  to  be  worked,  and  then  a  row  in  two  colors,  in  two 
stitches  of  each  alternately.  The  second  color  is  employed  to 
form  the  ground  of  the  pattern.  Work  one  plain  row,  and  then 
work  large  stars,  in  a  color  to  contrast  with  the  plain  ground. 
Between  the  large  stars,  work  small  ones,  in  a  different  color.  One 
row  of  plain  ground  is  to  be  crocheted  on  each  side  of  the  pattern ; 
and  before  commencing  the  second  stripe,  repeat  the  row  of  two 
colors  in  two  stitches  of  each.  The  ground  of  the  next  stripe  is 
to  contrast  highly  with  that  of  the  former  one.  The  larger  stars 
should  also  be  well  contrasted ;  but,  all  in  the  same  stripe,  must 
be  of  the  same  color ;  all  the  small  stars  should  be  alike.  The 
stripes  are  to  be  repeated  successively,  until  the  bag  is  completed. 


152  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

A  GREEK  CAP,  IN  COARSE  CHENILLE.- — With  a  chain  of  six 
or  eight  stitches,  begin  at  the  top,  and  having  united  the  ends, 
work  round  and  round,  in  rows,  until  it  is  eight  inches  across. 
You  must  increase  your  stitches,  in  each  row,  so  as  to  preserve 
the  work  flat.  Work  the  stitches  in  open  crochet,  and  between 
every  two  rows,  it  will  be  best  to  introduce  a  few  plain  lines,  in 
black  and  gold.  This  cap  is  extremely  elegant 

A  CROCHET  NECK  CHAIN. — Commence  with  fine  plain  stitches ; 
then  put  the  needle  through  the  back  of  the  second,  and  make  one 
stitch  plain.  By  twisting  the  chain,  after  every  stitch,  you  will 
find  that  one  stitch  appears  to  cross ;  that  stitch  is  the  one  to  be 
next  taken,  and  crocheted. 

A  PLAIN  CROCHET  PURSE. — This  purse  is  made  with  middle- 
sized  netting  silk,  and  is  strong  and  durable.  A  chain  is  to  be 
made  of  one  hundred  and  forty  stitches,  of  any  color  you  prefer, 
on  which,  you  are  to  crochet  three  rows  plain  in  the  same  color 
Then,  five  rows,  in  a  color  making  a  good  contrast.  Repeat  these 
stripes  as  many  times  as  are  requisite,  and  crochet  up  the  sides. 
Draw  up  the  ends,  and  trim  the  purse. 

We  deem  it  unnecessary  to  add  more  examples  in  crochet,  as 
without  engravings,  they  would  not  be  understood.  This  kind  of 
work  is  capable  of  being  applied  to  an  almost  indefinite  number 
of  purposes;  but  in  almost  all  cases,  though  easy  of  execution, 
the  patterns  are  not  easy  to  be  described  in  writing.  We  have, 
however,  done  all  that  is  required,  to  afford  an  insight  into  this 
kind  of  needlework ;  and  have  shewn  that  for  purses,  bags,  caps, 
neck  chains,  &c.,  it  can  be  readily  brought  into  requisition.  Much 
care  and  judgment  are  required  in  the  arrangement  of  colors,  as  on 
this,  almost  the  whole  beauty  of  the  work  depends. 


CHAPTER    XVIil. 

TATTING. 

EXPLANATION  OF  STITCHES. 

TATTIKG  OPEN  STITCH. — Take  you  tatting  needle,  and,  having 

threaded  it  with  the 
appropriate  material 
make  a  knot  at  the 
end.  In  order  to 
make  the  loops,  put 

the  knot  just  made  on  the  fore  finger  of  the  left  hand,  and  form 
also  a  loop  round  the  second,  third  and  fourth  fingers,  extending 
them  for  that  purpose.  These  loops  are  made  by  carrying  the 
thread  round  the  back  of  them,  bringing  it  to  the  fore  finger  again, 
so  as  to  pass  over  the  knot.  In  this  position  they  must  be  held 
tightly  down  by  the  pressure  of  the  thumb.  You  will  observe 
that  the  thumb  and  fore  finger  are  never  to  be  moved  while  you 
form  the  scollop,  but  you  are  to  bring  the  needle  and  thread  toward 
you  in  a  straight  direction  from  the  fore  ringer  and  thumb,  between 
the  second  and  third  fingers:  the  needle  is  then  to  be  inserted  from 
behind  the  finger  loop,  up  through  the  middle,  between  the  thread 


154 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 


which  is  on  the  needle,  and  the  thread  round  the  fingers.  You 
must  be  careful  to  have  the  thread  (on  the  needle)  between  you 
and  the  needle,  after  you  have  drawn  it  through.  From  the  right 
hand  to  the  left  the  needle  must  be  extended  as  tight  as  possible, 
leaving  loose  the  loop  which  is  round  the  finger  as  you  make  the 
stitch  with  the  loop,  and  not  with  that  portion  of  the  thread  which 
is  next  the  needle.  You  are  to  withdraw  the  second  ringer,  and 
allow  the  loop  round  the  ringers  to  form  round  the  thread.  The 
ringers  are  then  to  be  again  inserted,  and  form  the  stitch  with  the 
second  finger  by  drawing  it  up  to  its  proper  place,  close  to  the  thumb. 
This  will  finish  the  stitch.  For  the  next,  cast  the  thread  over  the 
hack  part  of  the  hand,  instead  of  bringing  it  to  you  as  in  the  for- 
mer stitch,  and  let  the  needle  be  inserted  down  through  the  finger 
loop,  between  the  first  and  second  fingers ;  then  draw  it  up  through 
between  the  two  threads  over  the  back  part  of, the  fingers,  and  form 
the  stitch  with  the  second  one,  as  in  the  previous  stitch.  You 
work  the  third  stitch  the  same  as  the  first,  only  longer,  that  it  may 
form  a  long  loop.  Repeat  the  second  stitch,  then  the  long  loop  ; 
and  thus  proceed  until  you  have  seven  loops  :  after  this,  the  thread 
is  to  be  drawn  up,  so  as  to  form  the  scollop. 

STAR  TATTING. — The  material  for  this  kind  of  work  is  bobbin, 
such  as  is  generally  used  for  chil- 
dren's caps.  You  have  only  to  work 
six  scollops  and  draw  them  up  close, 
so  as  to  form  a  star.  When  made 
with  precision  and  regularity,  they 
present  a  neat  appearance.  Star  tat- 
ting is  well  adapted  for  trimmings  to 

at  many  articles  of  apparel  and 
ornament. 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  155 

COMMON  TATTING  EDGING. — Make  the  loops,  and  work  the 

first  stitch  as  in  the  first  pattern  ;  then 

-jfrk.    Jfb^Jp         work  twenty  stitches  the  same  way  to 

^tfgpr  ^otfiff  ^H^ 

form  the  scollop.     When  it  is  finished, 

you  must  draw  up  the  thread  tight,  and  then  commence  another. 
If  it  has  been  properly  done,  the  scollop  will  draw  freely. 


« 


CHAPTER    XIX. 
CONCLUDING    REMARKS. 

IN  bringing  the  Ladies'  Work-Table  Book  to  a  close,  we  can- 
not persuade  ourselves  to  dismiss  the  subject,  without  a  word  or 
two  to  our  fair  friends,  as  to  the  use,  necessary  to  be  made,  of  all 
the  useful  or  ornamental  accomplishments  their  circumstances 
and  situations  may  enable  them  to  acquire.  We  should  never, 
for  one  moment,  suffer  the  utile  to  be  absent  from  our  thoughts : 
she  who  has  no  definite  aim  in  what  she  does,  can  never  have 
any  good  ground  of  hope,  that,  in  her  progress  through  life,  she 
can  attain  to  excellence. 

These  remarks  apply  principally  to  that  large  class,  who  are 
dependent  upon  exertion  of  some  kind,  for  the  means  of  comfort 
and  respectability,  in  their  respective  stations.  But,  as  those  la- 
dies, whose  circumstances  render  a  practical  acquaintance  with  the 
arts  here  treated  of,  a  matter  of  indifference,  a  knowledge  of  them 
is,  by  no  means,  unnecessary.  In  many  ways  indeed,  a  lady, 
blessed  with  affluence,  may  render  an  acquaintance  with  the  details 
of  needlework  extensively  useful. 

It  is  often  the  case  that  young  persons  are  engaged  in  families, 
whose  education  has  been,  from  some  cause  or  other,  lamentably 
neglected.  In  those  cases,  the  lady  who  feels  her  obligations,  and 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  57 

is  actuated  by  a  true  Christian  spirit,  will  consider  herself  as  stand- 
ing in  the  place  of  a  mother  to  her  humble  dependents  ;  and,  un- 
der a  deep  sense  of  her  high  responsibilities,  will  endeavor  to  im- 
prove, and  fit  them,  by  suitable  and  kindly-imparted  instructions, 
for  the  proper  discharge  of  the  duties  of  that  station,  which  it  may 
be  presumed  they  will  in  after  days  be  called  upon  to  fill.  In  this 
case,  how  useful  will  the  kind  and  careful  mistress  find  a  know- 
ledge of  that  art,  which  teaches  the  proper  method  of  making  those 
articles  of  dress  which  are  so  essential  to  every  family  who,  how- 
ever humble,  are  desirous  of  securing  the  respect  of  the  wise  and 
the  good,  by  judicious  economy,  and  a  neat  and  respectable  ap- 
pearance. 

Those  ladies  who  are  in  the  habit  of  devoting  a  portion  of  their 
time  to  the  superintendence  of  our  female  charity  schools,  will 
also  find  such  knowledge  extremely  beneficial.  To  those  who 
are  disposed  to  follow  the  example  of  the  holy  Dorcas,  in  provid- 
ing garments  for  the  deserving  and  destitute  poor,  an  acquaintance 
with  plain  needlework  is  indispensible ;  and  indeed,  it  will,  in 
every  walk  of  life,  be  found  useful  to  her  who  is,  by  the  animat- 
ing love  of  the  Lord  Jesus,  disposed 

"  To  seek  the  wretched  out, 
And  court  the  offices  of  soft  humanity." 

Another  advantage  may  also  be  gained,  by  a  manifestation  of 
the  kindly  solicitude  for  the  improvement  of  domestics,  here  pointed 
out.  In  cases  where  the  secular  tuition  of  young  persons  has  been 
neglected,  it  will  be  generally  found  that  their  religious  and  moral 
training  has  been  equally  uncared  for.  Let  the  Christian  lady 
evince  a  real  desire  to  improve  the  temporal  condition  of  those  be- 
neath her  influence,  and  she  will  soon  find  that  the  best  affections 
of  the  heart  are  opened  to  the  reception  of  instructions  of  a  highe 


LADIES     WORK-TABLE    BOOK. 

aud  still  more  important  character.  Hard  indeed  must  be  that 
heart  which  can  resist  the  influence  of  genuine  kindness  exercised 
in  a  friendly  Christian  spirit.  We  once  had  the  pleasure  of  see- 
ing a  young  servant  baptized  in  the  faith  of  Christ,  while  those  in 
whose  service  she  was,  and  two  others,  highly  respectable  per- 
sons, answered  for  her  at  the  font.  This  beautiful  meeting  to- 
gether of  the  rich  and  the  poor,  took  place  in  one  of  the  most 
splendid  parish  churches  in  England,  and  left  on  our  minds  an  im- 
pression which  will  never  be  effaced. 

In  the  foregoing  pages  we  have  endeavored  to  lay  before  the 
young  votary  of  the  needle,  such  instructions  as  we  hope  will  be 
found  sufficiently  clear  to  enable  her  to  produce  many  a  delightful 
specimen  of  her  assiduity,  taste,  and  judgment.  We  have  sought 
to  be  concise,  without  being  obscure ;  and  to  give  plain  directions, 
without  making  our  readers  mere  imitators,  or  copyists.  One  fault 
which  is  to  be  found  in  all  the  books  on  these  subjects,  which -we 
have  seen,  we  have  carefully  avoided ;  that  is,  the  giving  a  list  of 
the  various  colours  to  be  employed  in  the  fabrication  of  each  ex- 
ample given.  Nothing  can  be  more  absurd,  and  mischievous  than 
this.  The  young  work- woman  can  only  exercise  her  judgment,  to 
any  extent,  in  this  department  of  her  labors.  The  various  stitches 
she  must  form  according  to  the  prescribed  rule ;  because,  in  most 
instances,  they  can  be  performed  in  no  other  manner  ;  but  in  the 
choice  of  materials,  and  colors,  she  should  have  free  scope :  here 
judgment,  taste,  and  fancy,  should  range  untrammelled  by  rules  and 
forms ;  and  yet  this  is  rarely  done,  because  the  lady  is  taught  to 
rely  upon  her  patterns,  and  scarcely  ever  to  consult  her  own  sense 
of  beauty  or  propriety.  We  see  the  effect  of  this,  in  the  sameness, 
and  monotonous  appearance  of  almost  all  kinds  of  fancy-work  : 
and  we  have  endeavored  to  do  our  best,  to  introduce  a  more  cor- 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  159 

reel  taste  and  principle  into  this  department  of  the  elegant  arts,  in 
which  females  are  engaged.  We  know  that  much  native  genius 
exists  among  our  fair  countrywomen  ;  and  we  wish  to  see  it  ex- 
pand, as  freely  as  the  refreshing  breeze,  that  sweeps  over  our  na- 
tive hills. 

We  have  before  alluded  to  the  various  and  interesting  uses  to 
which  the  needle  can  be  applied,  and  the  high  moral  ends  it  is  so 
well  calculated  to  promote :  and  if  such  be  its  importance,  then  it 
will  be  readily  admitted  by  all,  that  he  who  has  made  the  most  im- 
provements, and  produced  the  most  finished  specimens  of  this  all- 
important  instrument,  has  conferred  a  real  benefit  upon  his  race. 

We  have  a  higher  end  in  view,  than  promoting  the  acquisition 
of  accomplishments,  however  elegant  or  pleasing.  We  wish  to  di- 
rect the  minds  of  those  whom  we  are  thus  endeavoring  to  interest 
and  instruct,  to  the  immortal  beauties  of  moral  excellence.  These 
works  may  be  made  conducive,  in  a  high  degree,  to  the  develop- 
ment of  family  affection,  and  the  promotion,  to  a  vast  extent,  of  the 
purposes  of  genuine  charity,  benevolence,  and  friendship.  But 
there  is  yet  a  higher  kind  of  use,  to  which  we  would  apply  them. 
We  would  have  the  young  lady,  who  is  becoming  expert  and  clever 
at  her  needle  to  reflect,  as  the  beautiful  fabric  grows  beneath  her 
forming  hand,  that  her  work,  and  the  power  and  skill  to  plan  and 
execute  it,  is  an  emanation  of  the  Immortal  Mind ;  of  that  Mind, 
whose  creative  powers  are  a  faint,  but  legible  transcript  of  the  Om- 
nipotent Wisdom  of  the  Deity.  This  thought  gives  a  permanency 
to  what  would,  in  any  other  light  be  only  transitory  as  the  summer 
cloud.  It  is  Omnipotent  Wisdom  and  Power,  which  has  contrived 
and  executed  all  the  beautiful  wonders  of  creation ;  and  that  Wis- 
dom and  Power  were  called  into  activity  by  Omnipotent  Love.  We 
wish  to  impress  this  sublime  truth  upon  the  mind  of  our  young 


ItiO  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

readers,  because  we  wish  them  to  place  their  Heavenly  Father  be- 
fore them — as  their  pattern  and  example — in  all  that  they  take  in 
hand ;  and  to  remember  that,  as  He  formed  the  universe  by  Wisdom, 
from  Love — so  all  their  actions  and  elegant  contrivances  should 
be  the  result  of  judgment,  guided  by  affection — that  they  may  thus 
become  like  their  Father,  who  is  in  Heaven. 

Indeed,  it  is  only  when  accomplishments  are  rendered  subservi- 
ent to  the  development  of  moral  goodness,  that  they  may  become 
pursuits  at  all  worthy  of  an  accountable  being.  We  were  not  sent 
into  this  world  to  flutter  through  life,  like  the  gaudy  butterfly,  only 
to  be  seen  and  admired.  We  were  designed  to  be  useful  to  our  fellow 
beings;  and  to  make  all  our  powers  and  capabilities, in  some  way 
or  other  conducive  to  the  happiness  and  welfare  of  our  co-journeyers 
on  the  path  of  time.  To  this  end,  we  wish  our  fair  countrywomen 
to  devote  their  best  attention ;  and,  in  its  attainment,  to  exert  every 
energy  which  they  possess.  We  wish  them  to  make  all  the  know- 
ledge which  they  may  acquire  subserve  some  noble  purpose;  which 
will  outlive  the  present  hour.  But  to  do  this,  the  well-spring  of 
the  purest  affections  must  be  opened  in  the  soul ;  and  the  elegant 
productions  of  taste  and  genius  become  vitalized,  and  animated,  by 
the  spirit  of  love.  Thus,  and  thus  only,  can  the  occupations  of  a 
leisure  hour  be  converted  into  efficient  ministers  of  good;  and 
such  they  will  assuredly  be  found,  if  practised  from  right  motives, 
and  placed  in  due  subordination  to  the  right  exercise  of  more  im- 
portant duties.  The  young  votaress  of  the  needle,  of  drawing,  or 
of  music,  should  ever  bear  in  mind,  that  the  time  employed  in  those 
pursuits,  will  be  accounted  lost  or  improved,  by  the  impartial  Judge 
of  all — just  in  proportion  as  they  have  been  made  to  serve  the 
puposes  of  selfish  gratification,  or  to  minister  to  the  development 
of  an  elevated  moral  character — generous  and  warm  affections — and 


LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK.  left 

the  cultivation  of  those  virtues,  which,  as  essentials  ot  the  Chris- 
tian character,  shall  outlive  the  ravages  of  time,  and  qualify  the 
soul  for  all  the  beatitudes  of  a  coming  eternity . 

In  all  then  that  the  young  lady  aims  to  learn,  or  to  accomplish, 
let  her  place  a  high  and  moral  standard  before  her,  and  resolve  to 
render  every  transaction  of  her  life  conducive  to  her  preparation 
for  a  higher  state  of  being.  Our  various  faculties  and  powers 
were  not  given  us  to  be  wasted,  but  to  be  used  to  the  honor  of  our 
Creator — the  comfort  and  welfare  of  those  around  us — and,  as  a 
consequence  of  our  faithful  discharge  of  our  several  obligations, 
conducive,  in  an  eminent  degree,  to  our  happiness.  No  mistake 
can  be  more  fatal,  than  an  idea  that,  for  what  we  call  trifles,  we 
shall  have  no  account  to  render.  What  we  call  trifles,  may  be, 
in  their  consequence,  both  to  ourselves  and  others,  the  most  im- 
portant acts  of  our  lives.  It  is  not  by  great  events  that  our  char- 
acters are  formed ;  but  by  the  neglect  or  performance  of  our  duties 
in  that  state  of  life,  into  which  the  Wisdom  of  our  Heavenly 
Father  has  seen  fit  to  call  us.  To  elevate  the  sufferings,  sooth 
the  sorrows,  increase  the  comforts,  and  enhance  the  joys  of  all 
around  us,  should  be  the  highest  aim  of  a  laudable  ambition — and 
every  endeavor  should  be  most  assiduously  devoted  to  the  accom- 
plishment of  these  important  ends.  It  is,  in  fact,  only  when  we 
thus  employ  our  various  talents  and  capabilities,  that  they  are  re- 
ally useful ,  in  any  other  case,  they  are  only  ministers  to  our  per- 
sonal pride,  and  selfish  gratification,  instead  of  becoming  links  in 
that  golden  chain,  by  which  the  faithful  performance  of  appointed 
duties  is  elevated  to  the  possession  of  "  a  crown  of  righteousness, 
that  fadeth  not  away." 

Let,  then,  the  youthful  female,  as  she  plies  her  needle,  or  exer- 
cises her  judgment  or  ingenuity,  in  the  choice  of  colors  or  mate- 


162  LADIES'  WORK-TABLE  BOOK. 

rials,  or  in  the  invention  of  new  developments  of  creative  genius, 
ever  remember  to  exercise  those  powers  as  a  Christian — let  her 
cultivate,  in  her  inmost  soul,  the  conviction,  that  all  her  skill  and 
power  is  imparted  from  on  high — and  let  her  be  careful  to  make 
all  she  does,  a  sacrifice,  acceptable  to  her  God,  by  doing  all  in  the 
spirit,  and  under  the  influence  of  that  sacred  charity — that  bound- 
less benevolence — which  ever  rejoices,  in  making  its  various  ca- 
pabilities subservient  to  the  good  of  others,  and  thus  gives  to  the 
otherwise  perishable  occurrences  of  time,  an  endurance  and  a  con- 
tinuity, that  shall  endure  for  ever. 


INDE  X. 


Algerine  Work,  -  -  -  69 
Angular  Stitch,  ...  33 
Applique,  -  -  -  -  84,  89 
Apron,  Girl's  ....  40 

,  Morning     -     -     -     40 

— ,  Vandyke     -     -     -    40 

for  a  young  person,     40 

Aprons, 38 

,  Dress  -     -     -     -     39 

Armorial  Bearings,  -  83,  89 
Baby's  Cap,  -  -  -  -  111 

Hood,     -     ---  112 

Shoe,      -     -     -     -  112 

Barege  Knitting  for  Shawls,  115 
Basket  Stitch,  -  -  -  66,  88 
Bathing  Gown,  -  -  -  -  40 
Bead  Stitch,  -  -  127,  145 
Bead  Work,  -  -  -  84 
Beaufort  Star,  -  -  -  -  71 
Beautiful  Fringe  and  Border,  113 
Bedroom  Linen,  -  -  -  54 
Bee's  Stitch,  -  -  -  -  101 
Berlin  Wire  Stitch,  -  -  101 
Biassing, 35 


Binding, 59 

Biroche,  A Ill 

Blankets, 54 

Border  for  a  Shawl,     -     -  124 

Braces, 85 

Braiding, 59 

Braid  Work,  -  -  -  84,  89 
Brief  Description  of  Wools,  22 

Bustles, 41 

Button-hole  Stitch,  -  -  31 
Cap  Border  Scollop,  -  -  140 

Caps, 41 

Cashmere  Shawl,   -     -     -     49 

Cast  off,  To 100 

Cast  on,  To 98 

Cast  over,  To  -  -  -  -  99 
Chain  Stitch,  -  -  32,  102 

on  Gathers,  -    34 

Checked  Patterns,  -  -  -  115 
Chenille  Embroidery,  -  -  80 
Chess  Pattern,  -  -  -  71 
Child's  Collar,  ....  41 

Cloaks, 42 

Close  Stitch  for  Waistcoats,  115 


164 


INDEX. 


Comforter,  A     -     -     -     -  113 

Comforter,  Another     -     -  113 

Common  Plait,  -     -     -     -  101 

Common  Tatting  Edging  -  1 55 

Coral  Pattern,    ....  35 

Corner  for  a  Shawl,     -     -  122 

Corners,  To  fill  up       -     -  69 

Cravats, 42 

Crochet  Edging,  for  Collars,  148 

—  forHdkfs.,  150 

Neck  Chain,   -     -  152 

Cross  Stitch,      ....  65 

Crow's-foot  Stitch,       -     -  102 

Diagram,      .....  61 

Diamond  Netting,   -     -     -  128 


Dice  Pattern,     . 


72 


Dinner  Napkins,  -  -  -  56 
Dividing  Line,  A  -  -  -  146 
Dotted  Knitting,  Baby's  shoe  117 

Netting,  -     -     -     -  129 

Double  Cross  Stitch,    -     -     65 

Diamond,  long  stitch  72 

Herring-boning,    -     34 

Knitting,  -  103 

Nightcap,    -     -     -  117 

Open  Crochet,  -     -  144 

Plait  Stitch,     -          69 

Stitch  Crochet,     -144 


Double  Straight  Cross  Stitch,  65 
Dressing  Table  Covers,  -  55 
Dress  Shawl,  -  ...  49 
Dutch  Common  Knitting,  104 
Edge  Stitch,  -  -  -  145 

Elastic  Rib, 105 

Embroidery,      ....     88 

in  Wool,       -     80 

with  Silk,     -     79 

Embossed  Diamond,    -     -  104 

Hexagon  Stitch,  104 

Fancy  Bobbin  Edging,  -  34 
Button-hole  Stitch,  31 


Chain  Stitch, 


Herring-boning, 

Fan-tail  Stitch,  -     -     - 
Fasten  on,  To   -     -     - 

off,  To   -     - 

Feather  Stitch,  -     -     - 
French  Ground  Net,    - 


31 

33 

105 

100 

146 

67 

130 


Frills, 42 

Frame,  to  Dress  for  Cloth 

Work,  -     -          -     82 
,  to  Dress  for  Cross 

Stitch,   ....     82 
,  to  Dress  for  Tent 

Stitch,   -     -  83 

Gathering,  Double,  or  Puf- 
fing,     ...    30 


INDEX. 


105 


Gathering, 30 

Gem,  or  Set  Patterns,  -     -     85 
Gentlemen's  Belts,  -     -     r    43 

Braces,     -     -     89 

Collars,    -     -     43 

—  Fronts,    -     -    43 
Travelling  Cap  1 1 8 

—  Waistcoats,  85,  89 
German  Knitting,    -     -     -  105 

-  Pattern,      -     -  72,  88 
Gobelin, 85 

-  Stitch,  -.--     66 
Grecian  Netting,     -     -     -  130 
Greek  Cap,  coarse  Chenille,  152 

Habit  Shirt, 119 

Half  Handkerchief,      -     -  118 
Harlequin  Quilt,  with  Tufts,  119 
Heart  Pattern,    ....     73 

Hemming, 29 

,  German       -     -     29 

Herring-bone  Bag  Stitch,  -  106 

—  Purse,  -  -  118 
Herring-boning,  -  -  -  33 
Honeycombing,  -  -  -  36 
Honeycomb  Mittens,  -  -  136 

—Netting,  -     -  131 

,  with 

two  Meshes,     131 

,  Another  kind,  130 

Stitch,      -     -  106 


Horse-shoe  Stitch,  -     -     -     34 
Housemaid    and    Kitchen 

Linen,  -  ....  57 
Imitation  Network  Stitch,  106 
Indian  Scarf,  ....  49 
Insertion,  Crochet  Beading,  15^ 
Instructions  in  Grounding,  91 
Irish  Diamond,  '•---_  73 

Stitch, 66 

Jelly  Bag, 58 

Joining  the  Threads,   -     -  146 

Knee  Caps, 110 

Knit  Herring-bone  Stitch,"  107 

Knitted  Footing,  -     -  117 

—  Fringe,  -    -    -    -  117. 

Muff,     ....  114 

Knitting  Stitch,       ...     99 

Lace, 73,  88 

-  Wave  Stitch,       -     -  107 
Ladies' Drawers,     -     -     -     43 

Flannel  Waistcoats,   44 

Night  Jackets,       -     44 

Purses,  ....  139 


Walking  Shawls,  - 


Landscapes,  -  -  - 
Leaf  Netting,  -  -  - 
Long  Purse,  in  Points, 
Loop  Stitch,  ... 
Making  Buttons,  -  - 
Maltese  Netting  in  Spots,  133 


50 
85 
132 
141 
100 
60 


166 


INDEX. 


Mantuamaker's  Hem,  -  -  29  Netted  Cuffs,  -  -  -  -  137 

Materials  for  Plain  Needle-  Fringe,  -  -  -  -  138 

work,  ...  17 Opera  Cap,  -  -  -  138 

—  for  Embroidery,  21  Scollop  Edging,  -  139 

for  Fancy  Nee-  Night  Gowns,  -  -  -  -  45 

dlework,  -  -  20  Stockings,  -  -  -  122 

for  Knitting,  Net-  Open  Cross  Stitch,  -  -108 

ting  and  Crochet,  21  Crociiet,  -  -  -  -  143 

Marking,  -  -  -  -  59  —  Hem, 107 

Medallion  Pattern,  -  -  90  Work  Stockings,  -  121 

Mosaic  Work,  -  -  -  86,  89  Ornamental  Ladder  Stitch,  108 

Moss  Stitch,  -  -  -  r  107  Over  Shoe, 114 

Mourning  Shawls,  -  -  50  Pantry  Linen,  -  -  -  -  56 

Narrowing, 99  Pattern  for  a  Light  Scarf,  120 

Necessary  Implements  in  Patterns  on  Canvas,  -  -  86 

Crochet, 26  Pearl  Stitch,  ...  99 

Necessary  Implements  in  Perforated  Card,  -  -  86,  89 

Fancy  Needlework,  -  25  Petticoat  Crochet  Edging,  149 

Necessary  Implements  in  Petticoats,  -----  46 

Knitting, 25 ,  Flannel  -  -  46 

Necessary  Implements  in  Pillow  Covers,  -  -  -  -  54 

Netting, 25  Pinafore, 47 

Neck  and  Pocket  Handker-  Pincushion  Covers,  -  -  55 

chiefs, 45  Pine  Apple  Purse,  -  -  115 

Net  Cravat, 141 Stitch,-  -  -  108 

—  Scarf, 141     Piping, 60 

—  with  Points,     -     -     -  132  Plain  Crochet,         -     -     -  143 

Netted  Bag,  with  Ring,     -  135     Crochet  Bag,  in  Silk,  151 

Cuffs,  with  Silk  and Purse,   -     -  152 

Wool,    -    -  137     Double  Crochet,      -  143 


INDEX. 


167 


Plain  Knitted  Muffatees,    -  120 

Gentleman's 

Purse,-     -  139 
—  Netted  Mittens,  -     -139. 

Netting,    -     -     -     -  126 

Open  Netting,     -     -  133 

Stitch,        -     -  109 

—  Elastic  Crochet,  144 

-  Stitch  Open  Crochet,   143 

-  Scarf, 48 

-  Scollop,    ....  140 

Plaiting, 60 

Pockets, 48 

Point  Stitch,      -     -     -68,  88 
Porcupine  Stitch,    -     -     -  109 
Princess  Royal,       -     -  74,  88 
Pudding  Cloth,  -     ...     58 
Purse,  with  China  Silk,    -  135 
Queen  Stitch,     -     -     -     -     68 
Queen's  Vandyke,  -     -     -     68 

Quilts, 54 

Raised   Embroidery,    -     -     80 

-  Stitch,A     -     -     -  145 

-  Work,  ....     93 

Raising, 99 

Rib,  To 99 

Ribbon  Scarf,     -     ...     48 
Roman  Pattern,      -     -     -     74 
Round  Netting,       -     -     -  133 
Rough  Cast  Stitch,       -     -  110 


Row,  A 99 

Rug  Bordering,       -     -  87,  88 

Running, 29 

Russian  Pattern,  -  -  -  74 
Scale  of  Canvases,  -  -  21 

Seam,  To 99 

Seam  Purse,  with  Beads,  -  135 
Serpentine  Stitch,  -  -  -  35 
Sewing  and  Felling,  -  -  29 
Shaded  Silk  Netting,  -  -  129 

Sheets, 54 

Shifts, 50 

Shirts, 51 

Single  Plait  Stitch,       -     -     68 

Slip  Stitch, 100 

Socks, 122 

Sofa  Pillow,      ....  150 

Star  Pattern,      ....     90 

-  Tatting,      ....  154 

with  Eight  Points,    -  116 

Stitches  in  Crochet,     -     -  142 

Stitching, 30 

Stitch,  To  take  in  a    -    -  147 
,  To  increase  or  de- 
crease a    -     -     -  145 

,  Toincr.  in  Crochet,  147 

Stitches,  To  cast  on  the 
Loops  or       -     -     -     -     98 

Stockings, 120 

Straight  Cross  Stitch,  -     -    65 


168 


INDEX. 


Strong  Knitted  Purse,  -  -114 
Suggestions  as  to  Patterns,  77 
Table  Cloths,  -  .  .  .  56 

Linen,      -     -     -     -     56 

Tatting,  Open  Stitch,  -  -  153 
Tent  Stitch,  -  -  -  .  64 
Thread,  To  bring  forward  a  100 

,To  carry  on  a,  in 

Double  Crochet,  146 

Towels, 55 

Travelling  Shawl,  ...  50 
Treble  Open  Crochet,  -  -  144 
True  Stitch,  ....  145 
Tucks, 60 


Turkish  Pattern  for  a  Ta- 
ble Cover,      -     -     .    .  151 

Veils, 52 

Velvet  Stitch,    ....     69 

Victoria  Pattern,     ...     75 

Wave  Pattern,  ....     75 

—  Knitting,       -     -     -  110 

Welts, 10o 

Whipping, 31 

Windsor  Pattern,  -  -  -  75 
Wire  Work,  -  -  -  87,  89 
Working  Berlin  Pattern,  93 

Figures,  -     -  89,  92 

Zephyr,  A 114 


THE       END. 


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